Loosing water revisited.

B

Brentwood Bob

Well-known member
The radiator on the Huckster is not plugged. So the reason the water gets thrown out the overflow has to be the block. Talking this over today with a club member I flushed the block today, first with Cascade auto dish washer powder in water. About a dozen times thru out the afternoon.
Tonight I flushed with clean water, then put in a coolant system cleaner to soak overnight. I have the radiator top hose in place with the radiator out of the huckster. I rigged a long hose out to the front of the crossmember from the inlet. I have a plumber removable test plug and a piece of 1 1/2 inch pvc, and a pvc coupler. To empty the block I pull the test plug.
I still think the next step is to pull the head, and cleanout the head, and the top of the block. But I hope I see an improvement in the water flow thru the block tomorrow am.
 
Before I had my radiator reworked (put in a New4 core) at idle when engine was speeded up water would run out the over flow like crazy,water was filled only to baffle.The radiator had been boiled out but they wouldnt rod it out ,radiator shop was afraid it would fall apart,it seemed to flow water really good. I cleaned out the block using a coat hanger to knock loose as much of the crud as possible,had my head resurfaced,it still ran water out the over flow specially on a "pull" .With the new core it runs 160 degrees ,no more throwing out water. The so called "flow test" is a bunch of Crap. any way this cured my problem. Good luck!
 
Well, I have water pump grease build up in the block at the rear. I can prob into it from the inlet. I am trying some laquer thinner in the block up to the top of the block. Next will be pulling the head.
One suggestion today is to install an overflow recovery system, and a thermostat.I keep eliminating.
 
I did the over flow recovery system and thermostat ,didnt help any . But I did use a 50 % water and Muratic acid treatment the block after knocking out the crud with wire hanger,that didnt help either. New radiator core got the results I wanted.
 
Did you check your raidator's temperature in different locations, say, with an infra red thermometer?

This will give you a good idea of what kind of flow your radiator provides. Cool areas are blockages.

I find it interesting how an engine block's passages can be blocked, yet those tiny radiator tubes did not get blocked in the process.
 
Re: Losing water revisited.

I see from your post on 06-21-10 that this is a new radiator and ...

Quote from your post:

" The huckster I'm working on has a new radiator, and a new leakless water pump. I took it out for a few miles last night and topped the radiator before I left. checked it today and water is at the top of the tubes. The overflow tube is up into the center of the radiator ..."

1. Is the tube still in center of the radiator filler tube?

2. If the overflow tube is in the center OR toward the front of filler and is NOT up UNDER the lip towards the rear of the filler tube as described in the Service Bulletin mentioned below, water will go down the overflow tube if the water is 70 degrees or 212.

If conditions 1 and 2 exist the water surges up against the front of the radiator filler and goes right down the overflow tube.

Have you read page 450 of the Service Bulletins; which covers water being forced out the over flow tube and how to correct it?

They show pictures of the problem and how to fix it by rerouting the overflow pipe and changing the baffle if necessary to fix the problem.

I have seen a number of recore, even new ones and repaired radiators where the over flow tubes are in the front or middle of the filler tubes which will cause the water to be forced down the overflow tube.

If you decide to bend the tube just be careful you do not kink the over flow tube!


If the tube is at the front or too short, it might be better to find a piece of rubber hose and run it from the tube under the lip of spout and around to the rear of filler spout rather than forming the tube and risking kinking it.

Notice that the Service Bulletin says that the tube should be UNDER the lip and at the very TOP of filler tube. So the hose can just be looped around under the lip.




On 06-07-10


icon1.gif
Re: Radiator baffle?​

Note: when looking at this diagram that the front of car is to the left!​

NOTE: If you have overflow towards the FRONT OF CAR that is toward the LEFT ... it is wrong...

rad_baffle.jpg
 
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Thanks for reminding me of this, Late 31 tudor restored in late 80's, 615 miles. Kept having to add wter especially after 50mph runs, looks like replacement radiator, does NOT overheat. Re-ck'd over flow tube and sure enough just like in the picture so have "formed it back, will see what happens later today as going large cruise show (Mark's Classic Cruise, E. Granby, CT, 6-800 cars every mon. Ck it out). Car has a 160/ t/stat (I installed) and leakless waterpump. Fingers crossed. I know about letting it find it's own level.
Paul in CT
 
Mine was spitting water out the top and come to find out (after telling dad 6 months ago to get it rodded out)-several tubes were plugged. They were plugged at a shop decades ago, apparently they were weak so somebody plugged them. There was also a lot of grease from the water pump as well. So she gets a new core this week.

Mike
 
Spitting water out the top: Bad non-sealing gasket under Quail, Thermometer, Wing or other type ornament on radiator. Also the 'base' that the Quail sits on could have a bad, non sealing gasket.

Timing, timing, timing. Too far advanced or too far retarded. So she runs too hot and steams out the water and presto, you'll need to add two gallons of water and reset the timing proper like.

To monitor the radiator coolant liquid level under my Quail, I made a simple dip stick. It's about the only thing I could find to stick down in there with the Quail lower mounting bar thingy in the way.

Since it is hard to see into the top-o-radiator and difficult to see around the mounting bar under the Quail. I made a simple dip stick to check water depth.

I overfilled the radiator, drove 35 miles to let the water seek it's own level in the radiator. Yes it spewed out the overflow tube for a while on a 80 degree day. [All top side gaskets seal.]

Then when the coolant is HOT put the stick into the radiator till it touched and was stopped from going any further by resting on the baffle or fins...[don't know nor care what it was, as long as it remains consistent.]

~The hot liquid level was 2", from touch to liquid level.

~The dry area above the waterline is 4-5/8" from the liquid level to the top-o-mounting plate for the Quail. [Where it turns 90 degrees to lock down, and where the gasket under the Quail rests].

~Total length of stick is 6-7/8" long. Drilled a hole in the stick and looped in a string to hang from a convenient spot in the car.

Note my cold liquid level [1-3/8"] is below the 2" hot liquid level.

Here's a picture of the stick. No big deal but now I don't have to guess if I have enough coolant or too much coolant in the radiator.

Waterstick.jpg


VinagarWaterBoilout.jpg


Here is what FL&WVMIKE was saying below.

skip.
 
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BRENTWOOD BOB .....................
Try the old, tested and true method, that the V8rs use. That is running straight vinegar in your radiator for a couple of weeks. It is a mild acid and will not hurt the environment. It is also inexpensive.
EPA has regulated the radiator flushes, so much, that it is practically useless nowdays.
You will be suprised at the amount of dirt, mud, sand and rust that will come out. Especially, if you take off the radiator and use a power washer on your engine openings.
Try it, you will like it !
MIKE :)
 
Thanks for input. Took radiator to my radiator guy about a week ago. he checked it for me then showed me the same test when i came back to pick up the radiator. flow checked by filling with water from the bottom, then releasing. the water shot out 18 inches. then emptied with no residual.
I used lacquer thinner soak for 5 days. got some of the grease in solution in the thinner. Then today, I rigged an air line with a valve, and a water hose on a T to reverse flush from the top of the block out thru the inlet. Still getting rust, and some floating stuff, almost like leaves off a tree that have decomposed. I think the back part of the block is where the blockage is. I think I have to open up the block to reach it with a pressure washer.
Next step is probably some more lacquer thinner with a bubbler from the inlet. I'm almost ready to pull the head.
I need something that will breakdown the grease, thats why I'm using the lacquer thinner.
 
I will also check the position of the overflow. Right now it is in the very center of the filler, and sticks up into the top of the neck. If I look in on either side of the baffle I can see down to the tubes. I have an original radiator, and will look at the position of the overflow. I will refer to the service bulletins, hope its in the 1930 section. Thanks, Bob.
 
Mike V., just saw your picture of the service bulletin. Thanks, that helps. The tube needs to be rebent the baffle is the later type, parallel to the front, and back of the tank. I think you are onto a big part of the problem. Thanks, Bob
 
Benson, I will try to bend and reposition the overflow to the very front of the tank up under the flange for the filler neck. Looks like I might need to shorten the overflow a little. May try a piece of hardwood to bend against.Or one of those brake line bender thingies.
 
Brentwood Bob said:
Benson, I will try to bend and reposition the overflow to the very front of the tank up under the flange for the filler neck. Looks like I might need to shorten the overflow a little. May try a piece of hardwood to bend against.Or one of those brake line bender thingies.
Click to expand...

Actually the pipe needs to be toward the rear of the filler tube.

Having it to the front will make it easier for the water to flow down the overflow tube.
 
Benson, that's toward the motor. I looked at the pictures in the service bulletin post last night and noticed what you say. I'm getting some decent volume thru the block in reverse(out the inlet). Will think this thru a little more today. Thanks, Bob.
 
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