Looking for a new Pickup Bed

[Brace Bailey]

Re: Looking for a new Pickup Bed - Update and paint

Found this old post - have done a ton of body work and primer and paint to the bed.
Rubbed it out today. Will install the wood and stainless strips soon.
Ended up replacing almost every rivet in the bed.

It’s not going to be perfect - but considering what I started with, I’m happy.

Still have to fix the tail gate. It’s bowed out and just springs back when I push it in. Same delima - repair the old one - will never look like new, or drop $300 plus shipping for a nice new one.....

Right now I’m going with 87 year old metal.

 

[Larry Jenkins]

Great job. At a much lower cost and you ended up with Henry's steel.

Now, post images of your bowed tail gate. The experts here will certainly know the solutions.

 

[JBill]

You can buy just the tailgate from Brookville. BTW, you've done a terrific job on that bed. A lot of work. Good for you. Mac's in Missouri used to sell some of the small hardware. Chains, hooks, chain bracket, chain cover, that sort of thing. I don't know if they still do, or if those things are readily available from any of the good vendors.

 

[Dick Carne]

For the time involved to get a really nice and straight bed, and given the relatively reasonable cost of acquiring a new bed, I would recommend contacting Brookville Roadster in Brookville, Ohio. Their bed unassembled is something just over $1400 plus shipping (not including the tailgate). However, I would also recommend having them assemble the bed itself if you were to consider going that route. My nephew and I built a '28 roadster pickup for him several years back, and used all new sheetmetal from Brookville. In the end, it turned out really nice and is virtually indistinguishable from the original body parts. From my perspective, the body will be straighter, there will be a much lower opportunity for body related issues once completed, and your project will move along much faster. If your current bed is as good as so many have commented, then perhaps the sale of your current bed might make the selection of a new bed all the more financially feasible, not to mention the rather enormous amount of time otherwise required to achieve the same results. Again, just my opinion. Good luck whatever route you might choose.

 

[oldredford]

I've heard that there is a supplier/manufacturer in Missouri - for Model A sheetmetal parts. I'm considering buying a new complete bed for my 30 CCPU

I would like to eliminate the shipping and crating charges to close the gap on repairing my bed vs replacing it.

any advise on New reproduction beds would be appreciated.

Thanks, and Merry Christmas

I have a 1930 Cab and new Brooksville bed forsale in the Model A swap section for $1,000.

 

[Brace Bailey]

Missed the bed and cab. It is just as well that I continue my bed project as I’m all in.
Decided to install my new white Oak boards and stainless strips. First thing I discovered is that the slots in the boards don’t match the width of the stainless strips (or the black ones I have as extra either). If I move the boards out so the strips fit into the groves... there is a gap of bout 1/2 inch around the square steel plate that goes over the rear end.

So, the first picture shows the wood installed in the the correct location - (tight against the 1/4” stainless bolts in the strips, and on into to the bed cross members. I put the masking tape down first so I could trace the edges with a ball point pen. Then take it all apart again and head to the table saw to re-grove the oak.

Last picture after I cut all the groves, sander sealed and lacquered the edges. I also had to cut 1/8” off each cut-out for the center plate.
I went to install all the polished stainless cap bolts- and discovered I had lost 11
Of them. Hunted everywhere- even my blue jeans in the laundry.... no luck.
After about an hour... and looking at the two pictures, I determined that I only got 28 of them (for the strips) and am short the 14 that go down the sides on the outside boards.
Senior moment