Looking for a little knowledge

P

Patrick brophy

Senior Member
Just finished a full restoration on a 1957 Thunderbird.

A full ten years of my life I would like to get back.

That being said, I am thinking about another project.

I am looking for a little information regarding the price of a roller project Model A car, how many are still available, and how many parts are still available.

If anyone could give me a short thumbnail of what's available, and perhaps a few do's and don'ts i would appreciate it.

Patrick
 
I don't know where in Alabama you are located. I looked at Craig's List for Birmingham and expanded to cover the whole state, but no rollers now. You could put a want ad there if you want. See https://bham.craigslist.org/search/...1931&search_distance=185#search=1~gallery~0~0

A good source is your local Model A clubs. You can email the club presidents for the local one and others within your desired radius. The MARC and MAFCA sites have listings for the clubs.

Also look in the MARC and MAFCA web sites and their magazines. If you join, you can put a wanted add in the magazines.

The price will vary all over the place. I think $5,000 is about right but it all depends on how rare the body style is and what condition the car is. Carefully inspect any car and if possible bring a Model A expert with you.

Post some photos of the 57 T bird or supply a link to where the photos are.
 
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Parts ARE available. Most collectors are like me who get approached from friends and neighbors who know of my interest and pull a "I'm cleaning out my barn" and offer parts for the effort to carry them off.

Ebay is a source for parts - at mostly reasonable prices. I say mostly since if you look for certain parts, you may find THAT PARTICULAR part is in demand and short supply. You may have to settle for something less than original or "as produced" by Ford for your particular vehicle.

The big dearth is "body parts" - especially on the coasts. A complete body is a treasured and valued thing nearer the coast. There are reproduction parts available even using the original molds to create them - but bring your wallet.

The nice thing about a Model A is that it typically has about half the number of parts that any modern car has.

And, you have to compete with the "rodders." While I have been to the "Race of Gentlemen" in NJ, and appreciate the vehicles "cobbled together" from pre 1937 parts, the tendency of a complete Model A is to turn into a "rod." Everyone hearkens back to their 1950s origins and tries to emulate their older brother who took what he had available and "souped it up." Today that generation frequently has the money and time and interest to try to exceed their older brother (or father) and all the material to do this is available for less than $10K.


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At Epping NH flea market I have seen complete "barn fresh" Model As on the backs of car haulers being bought by someone YOU KNOW is creating yet another rod.

I have to restrain my critique as I guess that is preferable to the auto salvage guy who comes with a car hauler and leaves $200 in its place. Which is where it might have been otherwise.

As to what to get - try to get as complete as possible in an "original car." Barn-fresh can still be found. And this will give you a big advantage over trying to "assemble a car from parts."

I have the original "barn fresh" (avatar.) Also 60 percent of the next car (parts) Also 40 per cent of the next car (more parts) also "a whole bunch of parts left over I don't know what to do with."

The problem is those parts from the first that keep trying to convert themselves to the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th categories...

Joe K
 
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Shame you're not in Virginia. I know where a 31 town sedan is for a reasonable price. The caveat is it's been taken completely apart for 20 years. The man swears it's all there but I have no interest in that type of project. It has been stored inside even longer than that so very little rust.

But to answer your question, yes, you can get most parts for any of them. Especially a common body style, coupe, roadster, 2dr, or 4dr sedan.
 
Hot rod kits are available and this is probably the best and least expensive way to build a hot rod. They can be put together in a year by a dedicated person.
 
Great information from what appears to be some very intune model A fans and owners
.
I was wondering just what it going to take to jump in with both feet,as I tend to not half step in anything I do.

Having parts available is a big part of a project like this.

I thank you all for the information you have provided, it will be a very important part of my decision.

Ayers1, what would you consider to be a reasonable price for that Town Sedan?

Patrick
 
Patrick brophy said:
Great information from what appears to be some very intune model A fans and owners
.
I was wondering just what it going to take to jump in with both feet,as I tend to not half step in anything I do.

Having parts available is a big part of a project like this.

I thank you all for the information you have provided, it will be a very important part of my decision.

Ayers1, what would you consider to be a reasonable price for that Town Sedan?

Patrick
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The body is in good shape with just a little rust in the lower cowl area. The frame and all the bolt on parts have been completely disassembled. He would take less than 5k but there is a ton of work to be done.
The Town Sedan that I am currently working on I paid 7k for and drove it up on the trailer. I'll wind up with about 17k in it and I've done all the work. Just to give you an idea of the cost.
 
I would suggest that you consult with your State DMV as to title and registration requirements for an antique vehicle. Adds that state sold with a Bill Of Sale may be a problem. Good luck with your project.
 
And certain states are real finicky on "TITLE."

New Hampshire considerably less so than others: a bill of sale, application for title, and a VID confirmation by an "agent of the court" (usually an off-duty local cop) will get you the title in two weeks.

A gentleman drove all the way from Texas to buy an AA rolling chassis (with 26K original miles on it) from me because I could transfer the title to him by "signing on the back." Texas is much harder to "generate" a title.

Joe K
 
go on Facebook and punch in model a ford. there will be MANY choices.......

CL is pretty much dead at this point.
 
This is the car I'm working on now. I am basically down to wiring and the interior. Good luck with your search!
 

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I have a 28 phaeton for sale complete except for top bows. Good rust free and straight car. Title in my name. $6500. It's on facebook marketplace for photos.
 
Hello,welcome to the Ford Barn, I am currently restoring a 31 roadster, most parts are available, but require some rework to fit correctly, as far as reproduction body panels go . I replaced the quarter panel,and door and both needed work to fit correctly. Entire Roadster bodies are available, as reproduction, for about $8,500 . My original intention was to build up one , but found a car needing restoration. Model As are simple cars and parts including new engines are available. A lot of information is here on the Ford Barn and other sites , Probably the most popular Ford to restore, Good luck on your quest.
 
I have a 1957 T-Bird that I restored and also several Model A's that I have restored. IMO, the T-Bird was more difficult though the rarer A's were not easy. My advice is to get the most complete and rust-free Model A you can afford. Cheaper, less complete, and rusty will ultimately be more difficult to restore and more expensive in the end.
 
I am a Model A and although I don’t know everything I know quite a bit. First and foremost; get books (Les Andrew’s has 2) and learn as much as you can before actually buying a car. That is something I sure wish I had done, instead I bought one knowing nothing and had a heck of a learning curve (for one thing I learned that I paid too much). Model A’s have been dropping in price for the last 30 years but a lot of sellers are not up to speed on today’s values and will be asking too much. The term “roller” covers a huge amount of ground (engine, no engine, rebuilt engine, frozen engine, etc., etc.,) figure out (A) what year and model you want. Then determine exactly how much work you want to do for yourself. I’m sure that you are aware that it is always much, much, cheaper to buy a “done” car then build it yourself but I appreciate you wanting to build it your way. Parts! Parts is a huge challenge. You could build a Model A from scratch just by ordering from a catalogue but these days most of the “new” parts are Chinese crap, in my opinion, the term “new” is no longer what we think it to be. I buy very few “new” parts these days. I look for NOS parts and serviceable used parts, here is where “fill your library before you fill your garage” phylosphy pays off. I own a Roadster pickup but if you are not hot on one particular model then a would suggest that you purchase a ‘30 or ‘31 (standard or deluxe??) Tudor. The Tudor is by far the way to go if you plan to do anything beyond parades (it’s also the model that sold the most when new (by a huge margin). By far the #1 buyers tip is rust. Unless you enjoy rust repair work then buy a car that is rust free (either original or already repaired). Personally, if I had it to do over I would seek out a car that was mostly done and finish it off to your own taste (however I would buy a car that had body and paint done). Join the “Model A Ford Club of America (MAFCA)” and “The Model A restorers club” and order some back issues of their magazines. Join a local club (MAFCA chapters are a lot more common then Restorers chapters. The magazines have classified ads so that will help you determine values. You probably won’t see a car advertised for $10k but you should be able to buy a decent driver car for that if you do you homework and negotiate like a Russian. There are a LOT of Model A’s out there, I’m willing to bet that you can go anywhere in the country and find at least 2 or 3 on Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and Bring A Trailer. Check out the BAT website, it shows past sales going way back so that will also help determine values. I would be happy to assist you in anyway that I can, feel free to pm me if want more help.
 
I have done a 57 Tbird and 3 Model As.
Jump in the water is fun.

I would find an older restoration owned by a senior whose family does not want the car. Easier to fix/update than invent! My Avatar recently moved on
Clem
 
What desotoguy said!!!!!!!!! One of my first steps. I am not restoring a car just to have a nice pile of parts.

So your baby-bird.....what's next for that now you have it done? I can hardly believe how the prices of them have moderated.
 
While I like my Model A I would not spend the money to restore one. Find yourself something that will sell for more money when done. It took you 10 years to do a Baby Bird which indicates to me you did the work yourself. Expending that same effort on a car that is worth more when done would be my route.
Now if you want to chop the top and stick in a V8 there is good money to be made in Model As.



https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/1935-ford-morgantown-pa-2687999#&gid=1&pid=19


https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/1929-franklin-130-stockton-ca-2842351#&gid=1&pid=1


https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/1934-rolls-royce-20-25-2816322#&gid=1&pid=3
 
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