Looking for a Hub puller...Got It!!

[39portlander]

When you order a part or a tool and It exceed's your expectation's, you gotta share. Tried it out on both rear hub's, smooth operation.

I re-fit the 39 P/U with the M.T. bendix rear brakes and needing a rear hub puller for future service, I found The Vintage Precision web site.

Puller was $100.00 and what a nice piece. Pictured just out of the box is the nice tube that holds the puller. Last two pic's are how it gets mounted. ( I set the thrust plate nut on the top there, It would spin on were the castle/cotter are)

That outer case has "order of operation" and puller item's on the outside also came with a smaller two sided card with the same info. Nice to see American craftsmen keeping nice tools for the hobby available. 1-800-486-0021 and ask for casey. Scott

 

[ford38v8]

Scott, that looks good, having an advantage over the KRW puller in less overall weight. I do, however, question the wisdom of using the axle threads alone, without the solid end of the axle shaft as backup. The KRW, if you are familiar, has a bottoming nut that screws onto the axle, tightly egaging both the threads and the axle end.

 

[texas webb]

Looks like a good tool,thanx for the info.

Webb.

 

[Talkwrench]

Looks all to clean to me !

 

[39portlander]

I do, however, question the wisdom of using the axle threads alone, without the solid end of the axle shaft as backup. The KRW, if you are familiar, has a bottoming nut that screws onto the axle, tightly egaging both the threads and the axle end.

I'm not familiar w/KRW version but, this tool worked as smooth as butter for me. Your valid question would be better asked to the man who designed and made this tool, who's got a lot more talent/wisdom than I

 

[flat-v8]

I didn't have the correct puller, but I'm an A\C tech so I just used my trusty fan\bearing puller, worked like a charm!

 

[925DiabloA]

Scott, that looks good, having an advantage over the KRW puller in less overall weight. I do, however, question the wisdom of using the axle threads alone, without the solid end of the axle shaft as backup. The KRW, if you are familiar, has a bottoming nut that screws onto the axle, tightly egaging both the threads and the axle end.

Just to clarify a little. You are correct that using the axle threads alone is a no no. I believe Scott's pics above have been taken after using the tool and putting the cotter pin back into the axle. The thrust plate nut, which is sitting on the hub above the cotter pin in the pic, should screw on the end of the axle, much like the bottoming nut of the KRW puller.

Here is another pic

http://vintageprecision.com/products/hub_pullers/index.html

 

[milesoftexas]

I bought same one and works great. Well worth $ and packs away nicely.

 

[malpais]

I made a little puller - ugly but works good. Drops in groove; pusses only on end of axle. I didn't have much $ at the time

 

[ford38v8]

Just to clarify a little. You are correct that using the axle threads alone is a no no. I believe Scott's pics above have been taken after using the tool and putting the cotter pin back into the axle. The thrust plate nut, which is sitting on the hub above the cotter pin in the pic, should screw on the end of the axle, much like the bottoming nut of the KRW puller.

Here is another pic

http://vintageprecision.com/products/hub_pullers/index.html

I read the instructions from then website, which say to back off the threads by 1/2 turn. That puts all the pressure on the threads. The KRW nut has a solid end that bottoms out when screwed onto the axle, giving full support.

The axle end takes a lot of abuse over the years. I've seen (and used) axles whose threads are barely there at all, having been damaged by various incorrect methods of drum removal. For my money, any tool that doesn't protect the threads and in fact puts them at risk is a bad investment.

 

[Tim Ayers]

I made a little puller - ugly but works good. Drops in groove; pusses only on end of axle. I didn't have much $ at the time

Well, your puller is simular in design as the KRW or other from back in the day pullers so I'm not surprised it worked out well for you.

Good job and us N.E. folks say, great Yankee ingenuity.

 

[925DiabloA]

I read the instructions from then website, which say to back off the threads by 1/2 turn. That puts all the pressure on the threads. The KRW nut has a solid end that bottoms out when screwed onto the axle, giving full support.

The axle end takes a lot of abuse over the years. I've seen (and used) axles whose threads are barely there at all, having been damaged by various incorrect methods of drum removal. For my money, any tool that doesn't protect the threads and in fact puts them at risk is a bad investment.

Let me see if I can explain this a little better.

What actually happens when you bottom the thrust nut against the end of the axle is that you prevent the threads on the axle from sharing and distributing the pushing load into the axle.

It all has to do with the backlash between the nut threads and the axle threads. Bottoming the thrust nut pulls on the threads instead of pushing on them which works the backlash the wrong way. This places the entire load just on the end of the axle which can compress those first few threads or the threads at the cotter pin hole. The pitch of the threads will have been changed and the nut won't want to go on correctly. Repairing those damaged threads usually means re-threading with a thread chaser to restore the correct thread pitch and that means removing metal.

Your comment about threads barely there is the result of removing metal to restore the correct pitch so you can install the castle nut. Each cycle the axle goes through with your bottoming process requires more metal removal from re-threading to correct the thread pitch. It's a vicious cycle that ultimately results in seeing threads barely there. When you bottom the nut you prevent the threads from doing their job of sharing and distributing the push off load past the cotter pin hole and into the thicker section of the axle where it won't compress and ruin the thread pitch. I recommend you don't bottom the thrust plate nut, and back it off a 1/2 turn.

 

[ford38v8]

Diablo, I see your point and agree in principle. All in all, I believe you have a puller as good as the KRW, and preferable, in fact, to be placed in the tool box for those of us who do cross country tours, due to the weght factor. Do you know offhand, what the weight difference is?

Another common way to lose the threads... How many times do you see someone use the castle nut screwed on backwards to "save" the threads when using a sledge hammer on the end of the axle? Ouch!

 

[Gary in La.]

My original KRW puller weighs 7 pounds on the scale in the shop. Don't know how accurate it is on the low end though.

 

[37 Coupe]

Here is the type I use and the type that I have seen more than once from old Ford mechanics tool inventory,never seen the KRW one except pictures.

 

[39portlander]

This is why I love this hobby and FordBarn. I buy a nice American made tool for service and get an education on the way the darn thing works in theory.

I'm not trying to be funny. On a serious note, the insight about the threads to this thread are great.

It just keep's on giving. Best few buck's I've spent in a long time.Scott

 

[Binx]

I like it -- but then I like Malpais's puller too. If they work, they work!!

Lonnie

 

[Mart]

Interesting discussion on the thread protectors fellas, good points made. Unless it is an extreme heavy duty type a "normal" 3 leg puller will struggle with a Ford hub - unless it wasn't done up tight enough.

Mart.