long, long sleep over for 36 3 Window

In tinkering under the hood last night I looked for the elusive LB marking on the block. Alas - nothing of the sort. Darn! It is a 21 stud block, aluminum heads, built pre- 937 (no backing plates). The serial number on top of the bell housing is C18v 9802. I assume the original Canadian-manufactured engine remains in the car, which I believe puts this powerplant at mid-year (1936) production. My question is this: there is a very large 3 cast on the block directly above the right water pump (passenger side of the car). Can you confirm for me what this marking means? Thanks.
 
Nothing better than your very own barn find. Great car, like your plan to service, clean and run. Good Luck.
 
update on this 36 Coupe: My son and i got the 21 stud engine running with little effort. Just routine stuff - points/ condensor, carb kit, plugs, temporary fuel tank. It fired right up. The engine sounded really strong, frankly. Compression decent right though all cylinders. The typical seal leak, however, and within 48 hours 4.5 quarts of oil would follow the path of gravity. This wasn't necessarily a bad thing, though, as there was no marking on the block to signify LB (or not), so i really wanted to check the mains. Was it babbitt or the more desirable insert bearings? i also thought it best to check the sludge level in the pan.

Fast forward a week: it is an LB block/late 36 manufacture. And a surprise bonus - standard bore. The oilpan and pump screen were clean as a whistle. The valves look like new, as do all bearings. Was this vehicle parked right after an overhaul? Who knows? I did find one perplexing thing, at least for me. Check the photos showing two pistons and rods from this same engine. What are the thin pieces of metal affixed to the underside of some of the pistons? They appear to be affixed around the wrist pin and fasten to the inside of the pistons. Some are broken, some are missing. Half of the pistons are equipped in this fashion. i'm going to tank the LB block. Should i reassemble the block as it came apart? Should i find a new set of pistons? Or, should i just remove these metal strips so all match? 'Hope this isn't a stupid question, from a relative novice. Thanks for your input.
 

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I think those are skirt expanders there was a post about them not too long ago. I like your '36 my Dad had one, the only pictures of it were from the back and front, so I don't know if it was a 3 or 5 window, unfortunately the people that would know are sadly gone.
 
Is there any ridge at the top of the bores?
I think I would check the pistons for wear, and remove those remaining skirt expanders. Measure all piston to bore clearances. Check the block carefully after cleaning for any possible issues. Measure crankshaft journals, bearings, large end rod diameters, and any other internal moving parts for wear. If all of this checks good, I would lightly hone the cylinders, install a new set of rings on the pistons, get a quality set of engine gaskets, and reassemble eveything just as it came appart, using assembly lube where needed. There are also many other checks and balances to consider as this goes back together, so hopefully others will add to this list, or correct anything I may be telling you that they feel is wrong.
I don't consider myself an engine guru, but I have taken a good number of these Flathead engines apart, and rebuilt several myself. Always a good feeling when you bring one back to life.

Getter done,...that will be one fun car to have back on the road!!
 
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If I had a block in-hand like this, I'd spend some time working out any casting sand and wire.

Great story. I have a '35 and a '36 but neither are coupes. :( Maybe I should be happy I have a back seat? :rolleyes:

Edit to add, from my new hero Ronnieroadster "May be a bit off topic but ever try citric acid powder mixed with water? Mixing 8 ounces of powder per gallon of water I completly submerged a flathead block in a tub filled with the citric and water mixture. After a day it came out looking like new iron even inside the water passeges were cleaned.
Same block running in my rear engine modified roadster at Bonneville holds gas blown flathead record at 192.448. Engine ran cool part of the reason was the insides were free of rust citric acid cleaned it perfectly for a lot less money than using a whole lot of evaporust." From post 23 of this thread on rust cleaning... https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=212197&highlight=citric&showall=1
 
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Beautiful , Just get it going like it is and have fun with it! I know first hand as I did the same thing!
 
Sounds like I'm in the minority here; but I would throw a new set of pistons in the mix. The cost of the pistons is relatively low in comparison to the cars value; and while it would probably still be out of spec, new pistons will be good for the rings and usually don't have the annoying rattle of loose skirts.
 
rich b said:
...I would throw a new set of pistons in the mix...
Click to expand...

You've gotta wonder about the circumstances surrounding the piston expanders being put on in the first place? In this case, standard bore or not, we're guaranteed this isn't the first time this LB's been open.
 
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My thought, too. Based on no sludge in the pan and squeaky clean valves and piston tops I do not think this engine ran too long after a handyman overhaul. The confusing part is the two broken expanders with zero remnants anywhere in the engine or pan. Do you suggest Egge pistons and rings? Thank you
 
I agree with new pistons, if it required expanders then there was a piston issue with the last rebuild.
 
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