Locking spare tire hubcap mystery

Lawson Cox

Lawson Cox

Well-known member
I just finished installing the spare tire locking hub cap on my 35 PU. I couldn't get the key to turn and lock it. I was afraid to force it and break the key. I cleaned the fingers well, even chucked them up in the drill press and lightly filed them to get them nice and slick. Put a little grease on them as well. Tried to lock it, but still mighty stiff. It seemed like it wanted to go, but still afraid I would break off the key. Finally I got up enough nerve to give it a little more twist, and it went right on. It felt like it had some sort of spring resistance somehow, but there are no springs anywhere. To unlock, it seems to have same spring turning the key. "How come do it do dat"? Inquiring minds want to know.

Maybe my 34 did the same thing but that era is almost beyond my recollection. lol
 
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The three fingers are spring loaded . The part with the ball on that is towards the center pushes into the outer part and there is a spring inside . Make sure these move freely and your cap will work as it is supposed to . The spring loaded feeling is supposed to be there . When all is good the key should turn with slight resistance . The Hurd and briggs caps are both like this .
 
I have two original 1934 locking hubcaps that are stock and unaltered. I couldn't get the key to turn enough so that the three fingers (or pins) would move and I could retrieve the key. I put the lock on the hub of a stock 17-inch Ford steel-spoke wheel and watched what happened from the back side. The pins are too thick even though the tapered ends encountered the hub I had to grind flats off of all three so the lock would turn completely.

I've long been puzzled as to why the caps don't fit stock wheels without being altered.
 
My roadster lock had a broken key in it when we brought the car . The key was broken off low enough that you could turn the whole lock with a screwdriver to remove the cap. It's a Hurd lock but it doesn't have any springs anywere in the assembly.A trip to the local locksmith has a new key fitted after he drilled the broken piece out.
 
I have a 34 Locking hubcap on my Model A that locks easy on the 35 wheels. Would trade for a 35 locking hubcap?
 
I removed one from my truck that works good but it doesn't look to pretty, Bought another one with very small changes and no key, I have read earlier posts about the #s on it; not the one I need a key for! I took it to a key shop when I got replacement keys made, for my column and door locks while they were out. Bad thing was I had the set screw out of the spare lock and He tried the ignition key and it turned it, but it wont now with the set screw in it. That is my mystery... How many keys patterns were there? Seams at one time I heard there were only 10 but was probably for something else. :confused:
 
Communication problems on fingers

The springs are inside the fingers and ARE NOT VISIBLE . Take one of the fingers and push the thinner end with the ball on it into the fatter end with the taper and you will discover the spring . It is inside . This can be easily done with the cap together and in the locked position with a small screwdriver between the tapered end and the lip of the CASTING - not the stainless skin . These caps are all the same regarding this and these have a habit of freezing up after years of non-use . If this is not working properly it will not go on - UNLESS you grind the tapered end down or bend the lip of the wheel center up . Either will allow the cap to rattle itself to death . DO NOT grind your big tapered ends down as they are supposed to be fat like that . I have occasionally had a wheel that had seen too many curbs and the lip was slightly flattened and the cap will NOT fit until this is corrected . Free up the plungers and you will be fine unless the lip of your wheel is flattened some . That is easy to fix also with a crescent wrench . If you grind off your fingers it will be MUCH easier for a thief to pry it off as you have weakened it considerably . Yes I know that isn't much of an issue now but in the depression and war years tire theft WAS a big issue . An NOS cap that is not weathered at all on a perfect wheel has some resistance going on and almost pops off and I think that what they intended as you are going to be more interested in getting it off when you have a flat and the weather may not be good .
 
Steel 35 said:
I removed one from my truck that works good but it doesn't look to pretty, Bought another one with very small changes and no key, I have read earlier posts about the #s on it; not the one I need a key for! I took it to a key shop when I got replacement keys made, for my column and door locks while they were out. Bad thing was I had the set screw out of the spare lock and He tried the ignition key and it turned it, but it wont now with the set screw in it. That is my mystery... How many keys patterns were there? Seams at one time I heard there were only 10 but was probably for something else. :confused:
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Dunno on the key patterns but your cap thing is easy . If the setscrew is out the entire cylinder rotates as the setscrew is all that keeps it from rotating . Old trick on these is to leave the setscrew out if the lock is not operational and you have a cap you can use - it just isn't locked .
 
You have locking hubcaps on the road wheels too? Doesn't the sliding lock cover spin out of place when you are running down the road?
 
on the back of the lock cylinder is that round washer with a screw in the center. back the screw off about a turn if it works better that washer is pinching the ball ends to tight. if that is the proulbem put a shim between the cyl. & the retainer washer. i have seen this as the proulbem several times it,s worth a try
 
The locking cap I got from you had a flat on the tapered end. After a new key and grease around the ball end every thing works just fine.
I am now making a roll fixture to reroll the stainless skin around the casting after removing dents and buffing. Thanks for the cap, your the best. Chet/ma.
 
Chet/Ma. said:
The locking cap I got from you had a flat on the tapered end. After a new key and grease around the ball end every thing works just fine.
I am now making a roll fixture to reroll the stainless skin around the casting after removing dents and buffing. Thanks for the cap, your the best. Chet/ma.
Click to expand...

Now, get me a l-o-n-g strap that will go around my 6.50 x 16 tires. lol
 
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