Little help

Kribbie

Junior Member
I have located an old ford flathead V8. I am thinking of resurrecting. But first and formost I need to know a little more about it. This motor was hooked up to a welder at time of it's demise ( using that a little loosely) The only numbers I can find on the heads is and A and the ford script. I did find a sticker on it that says it is a rebuilt motor. no stamping on the bell housing that I can find.hopefully pics can help identify it some what. 0905150949b.jpg

0905150949.jpg

0905150948.jpg

0905150949c.jpg

0905151143.jpg

0905151144.jpg
 
welcome to the 'Barn...any markings on the bellhousing??....mid 40s distributor.....someone here will be able to ID your engine......good luck....Mike
 
It's not necessarily a rule or a requirement of this forum but it is considered courteous by many members here to give a little introduction on your first post.
From what I can tell by your pictures, if there is no 59 cast onto the top of the attached bell housing, that would most likely be a late '38 to early 40's, 24 stud engine, although the destributor has the two piece cap used in '46-'48.
 
Don't let your emotions over rule your brain. That engine looks like it was left out in the weather for many years. Lots of rust. See if it turns over. Don't even think about buying it until you remove the heads and look at the damage. Don't be afraid to "pass" on this engine as there are better ones out there.
 
Okay well maybe I got a little ahead of ya all. I am an older car nut.( not nut job just interested in old autos) I live in North western Pa. I do like the old fords and love the sounds of the old flatties. I have owned a 32 model A coupe at one time, have owned a 30 model A coupe also. but have always been interested in an old school hot rod, nothing fancy just something different. well This may be the start.Have owned numerous ford trucks over the years. don't know much else to say other than I hope this site helps in my endeavors. Thanks guys ahead of time.
 
actually most of the rust on this is just surface rust. engine turns over freely starter motor even works. it was stored out side under a canopy that was built over the welder it was hooked to.The distributor cap got broken as the guy I got it from was moving it.. it was really close to being thrown on the junk wagon.
 
Looks a little crusty. Biggest problem may be cracks in the water jacket due to freezing water.

Motor is either just pre or just post ww2. Without pulling it apart and checking the bore it is hard to say.

It doesn't look like something that would be worth paying a lot of money for. Lots of things could be wrong with it. Hard to tell in advance from this side of my monitor.

Mart.

Edit: replied before you gave further info. Good that it turns. Crazy as it sounds, it might be worth trying to fire it up without stripping it first.
 

Kribbie, Just another few thoughts. If you can't check the engine for cracks it's a $50 engine max. unless you can get it as a gift for taking it away. I say that because it's not all there. Be sure and do a search for flathead engines FOR SALE on Fordbarn and HAMB. You might end up saving money in the long run. From the stamping it may have been rebuilt on the 4th day of the 11th month of 1950 by "JMC". It would be great if you could find out the history.
 
Last edited:
Just like Christmas...half the fun is getting it home and opening it up to see what you got! If it was "really close to getting thrown on the junk wagon" it's clear that the guy wasn't expecting to get rich on it. I'm with Fordy...give him $50 and save him the effort of hauling it to scrap. If you do get it, go into the deal with some low expectations as your efforts and money may just go down the drain...but they may not either. I was eyeballing a flatty on craigslist last week that was in similar condition but it got sold before I could get to it. I don't need an engine but wanted a fun winter build project to sell when I was done. The guy on craigslist was asking $225 (wasn't going to get that from me though). As has already been mentioned, there's plenty engines around in a wide spectrum of condition. If you're a gamblin' man and have some time and money to risk and you're wanting a hobby project then I say go for it. If you're needing an engine to put in a vehicle...get one where you know the condition better. I sold a guy one of my jeep engine rebuilds and the core he gave me turned over by hand great. Once I opened it up I discovered all of the #6 piston laying in the pan and the wrist pin battered an unrepeatable hole in the cylinder. Turning over by hand doesn't always mean all is well inside. Good luck and have fun!
 
gotta learn how to read.....now i see "no stampings on the bellhousing"....sorry, goodl uck with the engine....Mike
 
all cylinders clean , and all valves work when turned by hand
 

Attachments

  • 0905151846.jpg
    0905151846.jpg
    56.6 KB · Views: 55
  • 0905151844.jpg
    0905151844.jpg
    63.6 KB · Views: 44
  • 0905151842.jpg
    0905151842.jpg
    50.3 KB · Views: 43
  • 0905151843.jpg
    0905151843.jpg
    65.4 KB · Views: 44
36PU35Dlx2dr-1-1.jpg


You can't always tell a book by its cover or the internal condition of an engine by its outer appearance. 11 years ago I was looking for a good 59 block to rebuild. I tore down three nice looking 59 engines and then the one in this raggy/rusty 36 pu. Guess which engine was in the best condition internally and had the best block. I never would have believed I would be rebuilding that 59 engine in the 36 pu when I bought that rusty old truck for scrape. You just never know what you have until you tear it apart and check things out.
That truck sat out in the weather for many years within site of the Nations Capitol in Washington D.C. It did have a hood in place during that time, but I had to remove it when trailering the truck home on an open trailer.
 
Last edited:
A few years back, I bought an old homemade welder with a 40 engine. I fired it up and it ran great with very little work. You never know! Ajohn
 
I just looked inside the heads and really didn't even think to try and measure bore size.Not to mention I would have probably done it wrong anyway
 
You don't really need to measure it that accurately, the question is more like is it bigger or smaller that 3-3/16". Earlier motors were 3-1/16", later they went to 3-3/16". It's just a way of pinpointing more accurately the original spec of the motor. If you can measure it with some accuracy you can work out if it has been bored oversize.

My guess is that it is an earlier 24 stud motor that had a 3-1/16" bore as it came from the factory.

Mart.
 
Back
Top