Liquid Penetrants/Breakout Torque Specs/Rusted Nuts

Steve Ciccalone

Steve Ciccalone

Well-known member
I saw this on the Antique Motorcycle Club of America Forum and found it interesting. It was taken from an issue of "Machinists' Workshop magazine. Sorry I don't have a link.

The following is the results of torque specs required to break "scientifically rusted" nuts loose after application of common penetrants. I suppose they were "scientifically rusted" to insure uniformity for the purpose of the tests.

No pentrant 516 ft/lbs
WD-40 238
PB Blaster 214
Liqid Wrench 127
Kano Kroil 106
ATF-Acetone Mix 53
(50-50)

LW is nearly as good as Kroil at 20% of the cost. I was surprised by the results. I've been a Kroil guy and will continue to use it but the ATF-Acetone mix can be made cheaply in large quantities for soaking big parts.

Happy Thanksgiving.

No smart aleck comments about old guys with "rusted nuts.":D
 
Hey Steve, Happy Thanksgiving to you too.


We too are a "Kroil shop". Our experiences with the 'ATF/ACE mix' was much less successful over what their findings were however.

We actually purchase the Kroil in bulk (one gallon) and load it into these Sure-Shot sprayers (pictured below) that we pressurize with the shop compressor. When you use a torch to heat a nut slightly (not cherry red, just hot enough to burn your finger) you can spray the Kroil onto the nut and the heat provides a capilary action that pulls the Kroil in onto the threads. The ATF/ACE generally just catches on fire.

Another thing we use the Kroil for is we have an old Crock-Pot that is ½ full of Kroil. Not only does it provide a nice aroma when the Kroil is "cooking", but bare metal parts (such as bolts, nuts, hammer heads, dollies, Pullmax tooling & dies, Planishing Hammer anvils, etc.) can be submerged for a few hours after tumbling/polishing and they will stay that way for a long time. As soon as Acetone gets warm, it just evaporates leaving a "goo".

I guess for us, when we factor in the time to mix and the success we have had with the Kroil, the Kroil is still the leader. Maybe the priorites other folks have might change that some.


(BTW, we also purchase Brake Cleaner in 5 gallon cans that we have a small barrel pump to load the SureShot sprayers.)
 

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Interesting comments about heating the ATF-A mix. Apparently no mention in the mag article about this. Good point about the wicking action of the Kroil w/heat. May not be generally known.
 
Brent , who carry's the sure shot sprayers you mention in your reply, thanks for your sharing your extensive knowledge with the barn members it is contributors like you which make this such a valiable site!!! bobbycoke
 
Hm, good information here. I might need to buy one of those sure shot canisters. I go through PB Blaster a ton. I have tried other brands such as the Liquid Wrench, it works decently but the small bottle I bought usually can't get to some bolts like a spray can, and if the bottle tips over it spills. I have a few small bottles of Marvel penetrating oil, perfect to take one to the junkyard with. The tip on that bottle closes down too so I don't need to worry about it spilling everywhere.
 
bobbycoke said:
Brent , who carry's the sure shot sprayers you mention in your reply, thanks for your sharing your extensive knowledge with the barn members it is contributors like you which make this such a valiable site!!! bobbycoke
Click to expand...

Thanks Bobby but I learn from you guys too. I think mine all came from NAPA as an incentive but HERE are some too.

Wishing everyone a Happy Thanksgiving with Family, Friends, Food, ...and :eek: F O O T B A L L! :o

.
 
On using the Acetone/Transmission Fluid mix, you have to shake it, each time, as it does not mix. Without the shaking, you do not get the benefit.
MIKE :)
 
i don't know about "scientifically rusted",but I have tried soaking some naturally rusted nut/bolt assemblys in penetrating mixes, then splitting the nut and looking for the depth of penetration, there was not much evidence of penetration for more than 1 thread for any mixture ---unless the rust bond was broken by thermal shock.

In the real working world there is not enough time to get the job done if that rusted fastener has to soak for a week ---5 min is too much for someone working flat rate.

At work I use something that I have not seen mentioned --Lubriplate chain and cable fluid in a spray can, that along with thermal shock works quick, + it has many other uses, doesn't evaporate like crc, wd40 etc, it wicks in and stays good --door latches, hinges, works good as a universal spray lube, and is pretty good as a rust preventive.
http://www.lubriplate.com/products/spray-lubricants/chain-cable-fluid.html

I have also used a mix of atf and kerosene, it is cheaper but not as convienent as a spray can.
 
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