Light switch trouble

T

tom/illinois

Senior Member
Having trouble with my light switch pulling all the way out. Did this when I got the car 4 years ago ('47 tudor sedan). Replaced the switch then but that didn't fix it. You just have to feel your way when you turn on the lights. Maybe the knob/rod is the problem, you don't get that with a new switch. Anyone else had this trouble?
 
This should be your switch:
(Available here: http://macsautoparts.com/early-v8-f...-ford-11a-11652/camid/F30/cp/JS0R3CHL1073886/)

11A-11652_pJPG.JPG


And this should be your knob:
(Available here: https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlvry40/ufolder/ShowProducts.php?c=1&s=40&g=343&t=2072&tn=)


0000022187_0035000400.JPG


No horseshoe clip involved as you can see. If you don't have these two parts it won't work right.

If you want authentic trim you'll need this nut shown below:
(Available here: https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dl...ar_choice=47&btAddTpCart.x=19&btAddTpCart.y=4)


0000021999_0035000400.JPG


HeadlightSwith.jpg




And here's how the knob with shaft go on and off:

HeadlightSwitchKnobReplacemen.jpg


My guess is that you are not installing the knob/shaft correctly. You have to push it in turned 1/4 turn to the left then straighten it up and it should be secure. That's how I put mine in and it worked just as described.:cool:
 
Kinda related question?? will a bad head light switch cause the head lights to be dim? When I first turn them on they are dim and then they get brighter. Maybe ground problem? (50 Merc)
Thanks..Randy
 
Rand,
It appears you have a loose connection some place that when it gets warm tightens up! I would suspect the ground first but it could be the supply side, you can check both ground and power sides by checking voltage drop with a volt meter, I prefer an analog meter to do this over a digital. Brian
 
Rand said:
Kinda related question?? will a bad head light switch cause the head lights to be dim? When I first turn them on they are dim and then they get brighter. Maybe ground problem? (50 Merc)
Thanks..Randy
Click to expand...

Dec211975 said:
Rand,
It appears you have a loose connection some place that when it gets warm tightens up! I would suspect the ground first but it could be the supply side, you can check both ground and power sides by checking voltage drop with a volt meter, I prefer an analog meter to do this over a digital. Brian
Click to expand...

And, you can eliminate the switch and wiring by just running a jumper wire from the battery terminal directly to the bulb to see if it's any better. If so, you know the wiring and/or switch is weak. Then jump over the switch and see if that improves it. If so, it's the switch. If not, it's the wiring. If none of that helps jump to ground from the ground terminal of the bulb and see if that helps. If so, it's the ground. Run a seperate ground wire.
 
Thanks Brain and Henry...Ill try what you suggest and see what I can work out
Thanks again,
Randy
 
You can disassemble the HL switch and also the dimmer by a bit of careful prying. My experience is that the switches are very durable and the contacts are generally not damaged or burned, they are just clogged with dirt and petrified grease. A good cleaning and a bit of clean grease and they are ready for another 65 years or so.
 
Bruce Lancaster said:
You can disassemble the HL switch and also the dimmer by a bit of careful prying. My experience is that the switches are very durable and the contacts are generally not damaged or burned, they are just clogged with dirt and petrified grease. A good cleaning and a bit of clean grease and they are ready for another 65 years or so.
Click to expand...

Or, if a dirty switch is a problem, without dismanteling it you can just squirt a bunch of WD40 into it and work it and it will clean itself up. I did that with a lot of my switches after they'd sat for 31 years. Worked fine.
 
If you are trying to clean out the switch then what Old Henry recommends will normally work pretty well. Just keep in mind that W49 is not a lubricant so if you want it to lube it then I would recommend following Bruce's advice. And taking the switch apart is not that hard.
 
Old Henry I would have used W49 on my switch if I had it available, but with your help it now works great. Thanks Henry and Fordbarn.
 
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