light switch question

E

eric.schaefer

Junior Member
new to model a cars, just got my first a few days ago. trying to figure out what the headlight switch on the steering wheel is suppose to do. i do no think mine is working correctly.

When the switch is in the off position no lights are on.

When i click it clockwise only my taillight comes on

One click counter clockwise and my tail light comes on and my head lights

two clicks from the off position counter clockwise and the tail light is on, and one headlight gets brighter, and the other head light gets dimmer.

so my question is what is suppose to happen on each setting. and when are the cowl lights suppose to come on because mine do not ever.

i will attempt to fix the problem once i know what each setting is for, which one is dimmer, bright, when cowl lights are suppose to turn on etc.

thanks
 
Off - Clockwise - Taillights


Off - counter clockwise 1 position, taillight, low beam.


Off - counter clockwise 2 positions, taillight, high beam.


High Beam/low beam are one bulb, 2 filaments. Bulb contacts are high beam/low beam, bulb shell is ground. Upper filament is low beam, lower filament is high beam


Additionally some As have a smaller bulb in the head lamp shell which is a parking light. Comes on when the clockwise 1 position along with the taillight above.
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"two clicks from the off position counter clockwise and the tail light is on, and one headlight gets brighter, and the other head light gets dimmer."


If you have two bulbs in the shell, its is possible the parking lamp is coming on instead of the high beam. Take the headlamp glass lens out, and see what is happening. If this is what is happening you have a wiring issue.
 
Contrary to common belief both filaments "on" is not high beam (as in brighter.) Rather there is an upper filament (which by orientation with the reflector causes the beam to point down) and a lower filament (which by orientation with the reflector causes the beam to point up.)

It is common with certain replacement headlight reflectors for the ferrule the bulb socket passes through (and is aligned by) to get turned 180 degrees - or something else. This can cause what would normally be the lower filament "high" beam to be in the "upper" filament position. Newer more recently made reflectors are better in this regard. And it is possible to grasp with the fingers and "turn" a mis-aligned ferrule to the proper orientation - if one knows what that is. (I would have to look.)

I say replacement reflector - the issue may also be insufficient aligning key formed into the replacement bulb socket - sockets which for years have been a consternation with restorers both in quality of construction and melting failure of parts. The new sockets now are better - maybe.

Likewise, there are quality issues concerning the headlamp switches themselves. Many have noted that the switch is "irregular" and when the headlight is put on, the switch bulb can be "wiggled" causing the light to go out or on by vibration. Also noted are issues with positive detent positions in the switch. Also noted issues with less than adequate contact pressure between the spider inside and the switch plate. I wish I could say switches have improved.

Also note incorrect "bullet ends" on the ends of the reproduction wiring harness connected to the switch plate which don't make proper contact at the headlamp end of the headlamp conduits. One manufacturer of wiring harnesses IS using the correct bullet ends. Others save money on a cheaper harness/switch plate and solder on their own bullet ends.

The headlights and electrical switch area in general is one of those things we all apparently suffer with - to the point where an active market and trade is occurring outside of the normal parts suppliers in "restored original components."

And also one of those things where if one has non-original components, and nowadays most are, one has to "figure it out" and know what the issues have been or could be. Having in one's mind how it should work is certainly a start on getting it to work properly, as well as having a good volt-ohm meter or continuity tester.

I wish it was a matter of "if you do A you will restore B to function." But the subject requires a more general knowledge and diagnosis.

You certainly can start by disconnecting the conduits from the headlight shells. Exposed will be the bullet ends mentioned which you can test with a meter and get a sense of "this one is high beam - this one is low beam - this one is parking light." That is probably where I would start. At least you'll know your switch is working properly.

Joe K
 
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FYI, another issue, but not the problem you are having. Some of the newer reproduction headlamp bulb socket's inner contacts are larger diameter than original bulb socket contacts.


When the bulb is inserted the contacts can short to each other causing both filaments to light. A contact can also short to the bulb socket shell and the fuse blows as soon as you turn that filament on. Personally have had this issue.


One of these issues can also cause the filaments to blow open - do not remember which one, have had this happen too.


If you are not aware of the possible cause, can be frustrating to troubleshoot. If you remove the bulb for troubleshooting you remove the problem,. Taking the bulb out allows the contacts to be "normal" again- no short. So when trouble shooting, remove the fuse or disconnect the battery, and use a multi-meter to look for shorts on the bulb sockets with the bulbs installed. The bulb contacts should not be shorted together, and each bulb socket contact should not be shorted to the bulb socket shell.


Once I saw with the bulbs installed, the pins sticking out the back of the socket would also short. My farmer fix for this was to cut a small piece of inner tube and put between the pins.
 
eric.schaefer said:
new to model a cars, just got my first a few days ago. trying to figure out what the headlight switch on the steering wheel is suppose to do. i do no think mine is working correctly.

When the switch is in the off position no lights are on.

When i click it clockwise only my taillight comes on

One click counter clockwise and my tail light comes on and my head lights

two clicks from the off position counter clockwise and the tail light is on, and one headlight gets brighter, and the other head light gets dimmer.

so my question is what is suppose to happen on each setting. and when are the cowl lights suppose to come on because mine do not ever.

i will attempt to fix the problem once i know what each setting is for, which one is dimmer, bright, when cowl lights are suppose to turn on etc.

thanks
Click to expand...


Cowl/parking lights should come on when turning the switch clockwise.
 
Since you didn't mention the year of your A, here's a little background to confuse you:

Originally the model A had "H-type" headlights with a single two-filament bulb and a three-position switch, off-dim-bright. Cowl or fender lamps were optional, with a separate switch.

After 2/29 the car was equipped with 'Twolite" headlamps and a four-position switch, as folks have described above. For parking lights, standard models had a second bulb in the headlights and deluxe models had cowl lamps with single-bulb reflectors in the headlights.

You won't find exact replacement parts for the early type, but what the vendors sell for the Twolite setup will generally work.
 
why would the cowl lights not turn on with the high/bright beams? seems like if you switch the high beams to get more light on the road you would want the cowl lights to come on also to help add some light?
 
The cowl light are the same as parking lights, be lucky if they shine past the bumper.


Bob
 
You won't find exact replacement parts for the early type, but what the vendors sell for the Twolite setup will generally work.
Click to expand...
Can be made to work. It may involve re-soldering wires to the switch plate or ignoring the color coded wiring making it different from the wiring diagram. And be prepared to buy not only the later wiring harness/switch plate, but also the switch body with three contacts. The two HAVE to go together.

In an H Type application you may end up with an unused switch position. Perhaps this could be wired to provide juice for a USB plug?

Joe K
 
My '30 town sedan has cowl lights that I never use. I think they're just "pretty for nice" as my Dad used to say.
Marty
 
eric.schaefer said:
why would the cowl lights not turn on with the high/bright beams? seems like if you switch the high beams to get more light on the road you would want the cowl lights to come on also to help add some light?
Click to expand...

They could be wired that way, but their purpose is for parking lights, 2 CP. The brightest (standard) bulb that fits them is 6 CP.
 
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