Light Switch Problem

Robert/Texas

Robert/Texas

Well-known member
I bought a “Made in USA” light switch body and a “Made in ???” lighting harness from one of the vendors and tried to install them in my ’28 roadster today. After assembling them together I found that the switch mechanism was jammed.

I'm hoping that someone can help me with this problem.

Thanks in advance, Robert
 
Robert/Texas said:
I bought a “Made in USA” light switch body and a “Made in ???” lighting harness from one of the vendors and tried to install them in my ’28 roadster today. After assembling them together I found that the switch mechanism was jammed.

I'm hoping that someone can help me with this problem.

Thanks in advance, Robert
Click to expand...


Hey Robert,
Are you talking about the switch on the steering wheel being jammed?
If so take the wire harness and switch housing off the steering wheel, make sure the inside wire contact plate is lined up inside the housing (there is an alignment "key and slot") then make sure the horn/light switch "tabs" at the end of the steering wheel are positioned vertical or on Top and bottom not side to side.



Put the switch housing back the steering box (there is an alignment key and slot) and hopefully you can get it all aligned.



I just had this issue yesterday and had to take it all apart a few times to get it just right. Good Luck!!
 
Getting the spider gear and switch to align can be tricky, spider gear set at 12/6 o'clock, switch has to be set like wise, light lever should be at 6 o'clock.
Sometimes takes a few tries to get it just right.
 
Many thanks to all of you.

I think that Ryan hit the nail on the head. It was so hard to get the switch body together that I almost gave up. I finally got the two pins to mate and turn in their slots but then found that the switch innards would not move. I hope that I can get this all apart so I can fix them without destroying anything. That will be my project for today.

Thanks again, Robert
 
Thanks again. I followed the Bratton's instructions and smeared a little dielectric grease on the contacts and now the switch operates smoothly.

Robert
 
I found that the indents were too deep and had to partially fill them with an epoxy filler, smoothed out before the light switch would work.
 
I went though the same thing. I had bought one switch assembly and it was poorly made. Then I bought a second one from Bratton's. Much better, plus it came with a instruction sheet on what to do to mate it up to the spider at the bottom of the steering column and making the bake light part fit inside the metal housing. One of those little jobs that take time to get it to fit right. Now mine work well. JP
 
Thanks all.

I finally got the time to continue the harness installation. I didn't get far when I discovered that the taillight wires are about 2 feet too short. I thought about splicing about 2 feet into these wires but in addition to this the switch has a scraping feel and no indent feel for the parking, low beams, and high beams. Instead of splicing the old harness, I think I’m going to start over with a Bratton's supplied harness as suggested.

Thanks again, Robert
 
I keep on learning. Browsing the Bratton’s catalog I see that they have a 25 inch taillight wire extension for drum taillights. I’ve been exercising the switch and it seems to be freeing up so I’m hopefully going to save some money.

Thanks again, Robert
 
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