Light switch problem.

Tom Cavallaro

Tom Cavallaro

Senior Member
I don't know what changed when I took everything apart when I removed the steering column a second time to replace the bushings in the steering sector, but now my lights won't stay on and as I'm driving they go off and on. Is there something I should be seeing that I'm not?
Thanks in advance
Tom
 
Everything is clean as a whistle! Is there a spring or something to make the contact tighter? As far as I can tell everything went back together in order.
Tom
 
there is a spring in the upper housing of the light switch that puts pressure on the contacts to the harness. i took a sideways pic the spring is in the middle
 

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Everything was working fine then rebuilt the sector housing with new bushings. Put everything back together and now they won't stay on.
 
Tom, check ground, did c clip go in spider recess, is the insulator still on wire at the bottom of rod. Did switch go into notch all the way.
Thanks
Dana
 
I had the same problem after changing the steering box the distance to the spider claws must have changed. I noticed the spider no longer engaged the rotating switch. I noticed the collar was too long when compared to a known good one. Solution was to grind down the cola about 1/8 in. Hope this helps.
Ray in Illinois
 
1930 Coupe, you may be on to something...it seems to me that is goes out when I turn...sometimes off and on driving strait...I seem to have to hold the switch in place while driving.
 
I've had to use a bit of silicone spray lubricant at times to keep the switch from turning with the steering wheel.
 
This may be due to differences in the length of the steering column versus length of the various available switch rods.

One of the things I warn everyone about who rebuilds their steering is MAKING SURE a replacement worm/shaft are EXACTLY the same length - to include the taper where the wheel mounts on the top. (Like try old and new shaft with the wheel in place and compare the dimension between bottom of steering shaft/worm to underside of the wheel.)

Only one size of repop steering shaft is now sold - one puts the worm on to match according to what he had before. That is unless one buys the entire worm/shaft assembly pre-assembled in which case you pay to take your chances if you don't check before assembly.

Vince Falter has most everything you need to know about steering shaft lengths over at his great site.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/steeringshaftwormchart.htm

Joe K
 
Tom, I was having problem with repro light switch, would not stay turned off and did not feel like it was in dimples. At times head light and cowl lights came on at the same time. Finally discovered today original Ford spider ears were to long for repro switch and rubbing contacts.
Thanks
Dana
 
1930 coupe said:
Do the lights go on and off from vibration or when you turn the steering wheel? Make sure the steering wheel is not rubbing on the top part of the switch rod. Also repo rods fit tight at the top of the steering column and need to be sanded down at the top where it comes out the column, and some rods are ruff where they rub on the big nut that holds the steering wheel on and turn when you turn the wheel, a thin shinny smooth flat washer with a drop of oil on it will stop the nut from turning the switch. If your rod is bent it will bind and turn with your wheel.
Click to expand...
dont forget that split brass bushing that's supposed to go between the drivers end of the steering shaft and the light rod....
 
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