Light switch, horn assembly on column

3

30 A Ripper

Member
My 30A came without the subject and I'm ready to install an assembly if:
I can determine if the two-tooth is a Gemmer (?) or Ford and therefore needs a 43 or 44" shaft?? I'd rather not cut off and thread anything.

I'm studying the MAC's catalog picture but unable to measure with nothing there.

Ps-does the light switch body provide high and low beam positions??

Mine are some sort of sealed beam assembly with a separately located
single position lighting switch.

Pps-two more questions after reviewing L Andrews book:
Is horn rod hollow with wires for horn button inside?
Can I remove rod inside my 30 sedan without having to remove steering column?

Thanks, Dick
 
Yours will certainly have a two tooth sector. As to the specific length, it may be best to buy your steering column first and then fit your parts around that according to what you measure. If you have the steering column you should be able to measure using a long piece of wire.

As you allude, there are markings on the side of the steering box which will tell you the specific Ford/gemmer unit. However, this is not as secure a determination since the upper part of the box/column COULD have been swapped out by a restorer looking to get a better looking worm. The fit for either brand-mark is identical into the top of the two tooth box and parts can be interchanged.

The headlights and light switch for a 1930 Model A should be of the "twolight" system and will afford a 4 position switch. Handle pointing to the lower half the wheel, positioning IIRC is park(left)-off (straight down) - low(right 1st click) - high (right 2nd click). Sometimes a wiring glitch can reverse the sequencing between low and high beams. The wiring glitch CAN (probably mostly does) occur in the headlights themselves. Assembly of the headlamp internals is not random though - original parts are keyed to go together in only one way. Repop parts not so much.

The horn rod is hollow and a single wire serves to "ground" the connection FROM the horn and complete the circuit. Kits are sold to replace the wiring. Also to replace the black plastic button which tends to get broken on the 30-31s. A short circuit in the wiring downstream of the horn will cause it to continually blow - a defect often seen with reproduction light switch housings or older cloth covered wiring.

You probably can remove the horn/switch rod inside your 30 sedan without further effort. I cannot on my 29 CC pickup. Still, it may be easiest to unhitch the two spark/throttle linkages, unbolt the column upper connection (2 bolts) and unbolt the lower connection to the car frame (2 bolts) - BUT NOT REMOVE THE COLUMN FROM THE CAR - Leave it attached to the steering linkage at the drag link. You can do your horn rod replacement with the additional headroom gained by dropping the column slightly which removing the bolting allows you to do easily.

Your former headlights sound very much like a typical 1940s "keep her running" mode. I think of the vast the number of dash trim panels that have been drilled to replace the not so reliable original Ford headlight switch with an aftermarket push-pull kind of switch.

But the original Ford switch has a lot to offer in convenience and originality.

Try to avoid repop parts if you can. But I hear they are getting better. Hoping anyway.

Good luck,
Joe K
 
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On my 31 slant windshield T/S I need to lower the column to remove the horn rod without bending it. I'd think the 30 would be the same.
 
I too have S/W Sedan and had to lower the column a lot including completely loosening where the pitman arm assembly attaches to the frame, as instructed by Les Andrews.
 
Joe, guess I lost my reply.

Not having anything except steering column and box, still not sure how MACs " measure from top of rod under light switch to 'keeper' groove just before bottom end" is done.

Thanks for other info but maybe one more time <G>.
Dick
 
Currently two lengths of 2 tooth steering shaft (with worm) are offered by Snyders.

A-3524-43GW which lists as 43" overall length and
A-3524-44GW which lists as 44" overall length.

Shafts from Snyder's are only offered for the Gemmer boxes for ANY year.

Snyders offers Light Switch Rods in...

A-3616-B Ford 45-3/4 1928-29
A-3616-C Gemmer 45 1929
A-3616-F Ford 45-3/4 1930
A-3616-G Gemmer 44-31/32 1930
A-3616-H Gemmer 45-31/32 1930-31

For a 1930A one can eliminate the first rod which is targeted at the 7 tooth sector.

It is possible that you might have a Gemmer 45 box from 1929 so don't eliminate that second one quite yet.

But your most likelihood of length would be the latter three.

Of the gemmer steering shaft options for 1930-31 era there is a 1" difference. It's apparent that the intention was that one or the other of these two shafts would be used on a gemmer box.

For the three 1930-31 era light switch rods it is plain that a 1" difference exists between the two Gemmer options. And there is little difference in light switch rod length that could not be taken up in the fitup between a Ford 45 3/4 rod and a Gemmer 45 31/32 rod (less than 1/4" inch) The spring at the bottom probably gives enough springiness.

A similar comment could be made for the 1929 Gemmer 45 light switch rod except that the rod differs in the top escutcheon with a design that "covers" the central hub of the steering wheel. So you don't want that one, but it opens a door to those who might use a Gemmer 43 steering shaft on their 1929 Gemmer steering box.

Now Snyders gives replacement shafts for the two 1930-31 gemmer boxes. And other vendors avoid the selection by offering a 44 inch shaft which they give advice to reposition the worm and cut down to match what the buyer wishes to duplicate. A one size fits all approach. Still, it is very likely that a gemmer 44 shaft could fit a Ford box in the 2 tooth sector since there is only 7/32nds difference. One might even get artful with a lathe and re-cut the taper end in preference to repositioning the worm, which is a daunting task for those who have done it on a long slender shaft.

Also, it would seem that between a gemmer 44 shaft and a gemmer 45 31/32nds light switch - these go together - there should be 1 - 31/32nds difference in length. THIS is the amount the light switch rod sticks out beyond the steering box and is where the spring and spyder and keeper are applied to maintain the rod in position.

Sooo....Measure your steering shaft thread end to bottom of worm. Add 1-31/32nds. There is your switch rod.

I think it's called "reverse engineering."

And I hope it helps.

Joe K
 
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