Light switch body

J

JETAV8R

Junior Member
I have a an EARLY 1931 MODEL A FORD DELUX COUPE. I decided it was time

to change the whole light wiring. I have reached the point to put the LIGHT

SWITCH BODY back into the base ( LOWER END ) of the steering column. I

didn't take pictures. I have the correct harness according to mike's afordable

and I trust them. The body will slip into the column quite easily. The problem

is. The light switch will not turn after putting in the switch body. All works fine

out of the car. Not so installed. Can anyone help me ? I have read columns

about different problems but none seem to help.
 
Sounds like the two prongs that are on the "spider" are not in the proper slots on the upper light switch body. It can be attached to the column and may appear to slip into the column easily but in fact be not fully engaged. I just put one of the Bratton's very good quality light switches on a car yesterday however I cannot remember whether you rotate the internals of the upper light switch clockwise or ccw - I just look at it and do it! I think you want the internal mechanism of the upper body indexed ccw and with the spider at 12 and 6 o:clock the upper body shoould just slip right on. If you do not see two slots oriented at 12 and 6, move the mechanism in the other direction and try again.
 
it could also be the black part the contact plate is a little to thick. Compare the thickness of your old unit with the new one. You might find a slight (1/32") difference.
I recently installed one I had gotten from Mikes A-fordables and had this issue. Used a Dremel to sand it down and it worked fine after.
 
Thank you.
I saw that had been done one someone else's comment and so I MIC'D the original and the new one and they measured the same. 8.25MM.
 
Specs for the thickness of the black part of the wiring harness is .310", 8.25 mm equals .325", too thick. If you don't want to reduce that part, you can carefully sand the bottom portion of the metal switch housing. I found that the contacts on the new harness weren't flush with the top surface of the black plastic, causing the switch to bind. I filed the brass contacts until they were flush. Using a little dielectric grease helps as well.
 
slammin said:
Specs for the thickness of the black part of the wiring harness is .310", 8.25 mm equals .325", too thick. If you don't want to reduce that part, you can carefully sand the bottom portion of the metal switch housing. I found that the contacts on the new harness weren't flush with the top surface of the black plastic, causing the switch to bind. I filed the brass contacts until they were flush. Using a little dielectric grease helps as well.
Click to expand...
Okay..... I assumed. Wrong again... i was going from the

measurement of the one that came with the car. I will try this tomorrow. I do

have the DIELECTRIC GREASE and will give it go. Thank you for correcting me.

I need all the help I can get.
 
Jetav8r,
When I bought my 29 Tudor, it had no wiring except enough to get it running. No light rod, light switch and no main wiring loom. I bought all new repro parts. The "best" US made loom, the "best" US made switch. I fought for over 2 weeks to try to get it all to work. The assembly was so tight, I broke the spider trying to turn the switch. Thats when I started asking questions, measuring the parts and machining them to spec. With the help of Mitch in PA, Steve at Berts and Walt at Brattons, I finally succeeded.
 
To :Rich in Tucson, Eric Lewis, Slammin. You all are MASTER MECHANICS.

The suggestions you offered did the trick. The cockpit switch

moves very smoothly now due to you suggestions. It took a while but that part

is done. I thank you , one and all

Bill Seeger EDMOND, OKLAHOMA
 
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