Lifting points of Flathead

O

Ole Lou

Senior Member
Ok, need some simple suggestions on the best lifting points for a flathead, with and without transmission. Where do most of you attach when lifting a flathead? My inexperience shows as the engine tends to be overly top-heavy. Also, do you use a strong-back?
 
I just pulled one a couple of weeks ago went front head bolt passenger side to rear head bolt drivers side. Used a chain for pulling motors that has flat tabs on the ends with holes in them.
It was a 8ba motor so it had head bolts not studs.
I have also used a sling strap when I didn't have time to try to get out a bolt.(Usually outside in the dead of winter. Like now).
Stumpy's fabricating make a pulling plate that mounts to the deck where the intake goes. But that requires removal of the intake. Stumpy's the guy that makes flathead adapters to use with a typical style engine stand.
 
I use four plates slotted for chains that I bolt to the front and rear exhaust ports on both sides and then use four short chains to a tilt/leveling bar on the engine hoist. I can remove and replace the engine and transmission together with no problems. By using four points the motor doesn't twist or crab and I can do the job by myself.
 
I use the intake manifold bolt holes that are at the back of the heat riser, one each side- short piece of chain- sure to use grade 5 bolts, not grade 2... Never had a problem.
Karl
 
This lift fixture works with or without transmission attached. It is offset so it is turned 180 degrees to go with or without transmission.
 

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I took my intake off, traced out the bolt pattern and drilled 4 holes in a metal plate, then a couple of eye bolts with a chain. worked well and strong.
 
I used Stumpy's lift plate to pull motor and transmission out 36 truck and worked great. It does require removing the intake manifold.
 
I also made a flat plate from 1/2" thick aluminum. I used an intake gasket to determine length, width and bolt hole locations. Also drilled and tapped ~ 12 equally spaced holes in the center line (long ways) so I could position heavy duty eye bolts to give different lift points according to where the center of gravity happens to be when lifting different engines with or without transmission attached.
There is also a very nice commercially available engine lift that has four chains and a threaded crank mechanism for adjusting the lift point of the load as required.
 
I did the same thing JM did, after a near big lose, I was installing a fresh engine 298 in my 34 three window, mind you this is 1948/50 I was pumping gas and bagging groceries to support my Flathead habit, one nut and lock washer got drop in the intake port. when I could not find the one acorn nut I had laid out to put the carbs on with, hunt as I might , so off came the intake and there it was in the intake port waiting to drop in and damage my fresh built 3/8 stroker . so now I made a cover plate to use when installing...it takes me a while to do things, so this cover plate keeps the lifter valley clean and it looks cool to..... " piece of mind "..... OLD....BILL
 
If you are just lifting it to move it and don't need to adjust the position of the motor like when you are installing it, then just use a sling long enough so you can wrap the engine in a couple of directions. Like this one from Enco.
 

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JM 35 Sedan said:
There is also a very nice commercially available engine lift that has four chains and a threaded crank mechanism for adjusting the lift point of the load as required.
Click to expand...

That is what I use with a shop crane. I connect it to 4 intake manifold bolts. It is very handy to have the crank mechanism to adjust the tilt of the motor.

Tom
 
I have lifted my complete engine and trans in and out of my chassis several time just using 3 nylon slings. I use two 10' slings around the oil pan, one closer to the front and one towards the rear. I then have a short one around the trans with a come a long on it to adjust the angle if needed. The nice part is that you won't hurt your aluminum heads this way and everything is complete on the engine, carbs, air cleaners,etc., and nothing gets gouged or scratched from chains.

Bob
 
I made a plate out of 3/8" steel with a lifting eye welded to this plate. I drilled 3 - 5/16" holes to match the carb base pattern and bolted this plate to the factory cast iron manifold to lift my 221 out of my '39 frame. I have since used this set up to move flatheads around the shop. Handy gadget to have around.
 
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