Lifting a 8ba engine

[Don]

Is it safe to lift engine by removing carb and bolting lifting device at the3 bolts ?? Have seen it done on some newer engines on the shows ..seems like a lot of weight for the small bolts

 

[leon bee]

I've seen that, just can't bring myself to do it.

 

[Tinker]

i just use head bolts and a leveler.

 

[fordwife]

I have done it many times using a device made for that purpose. Just make sure the 3 threaded holes in the manifold are in good condition.

 

[Merc Cruzer]

This is how I did it. Easier to just to take the heads off.

 

[51504bat]

Not a flathead but used one of the carb plates bolted onto a 2 barrel intake to remove a 302 and AOD from a Ford van. I was kind of nervous but everything went well with no issues.

 

[19Fordy]

You don't have to remove the intake. Use two longer bolts to replace stock intake bolts diagonally positioned front and rear. Even easier when you use an engine leveler. Carb plate works well too. Just make sure it's bolts tightly to the intake. The tensile strength of the 3 carb bolts is many times greater than the required lifting force and engine weight but you don't want to induce side loading on the intake carb flange by not using the plate. Flathead engine weighs about 545 lbs.

Check out the Proof Load ratings in this chart.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/us-bolts-tensile-proof-load-d_2066.html

 

[hook00pad]

Nice charts, Fordy. It's amazing to think how strong steel actually is. A grade 8 5/16" bolt could easily lift a full size car!

Al Hook

 

[frnkeore]

One mild steel, 5/16x18 bolt, has a yield strength of about 1300 lb and a tinsel strength of twice that. G forces increase the load (bouncing around) and torquing the bolt, uses up some of the tinsel/yield strength but, 3 bolts/studs will handle it.

 

[Mart]

I use a load leveller and use 4 long bolts in the rearmost and frontmost two manifold bolt holes.

I lengthened the chains slightly so I can leave the dual 94s on the thickstun hi-rise in place.

 

[glennpm]

This is how I did my 59A in 32 using a load leveler.


Glenn

 

[oldskool]

I bought a 53 caddy motor off a guy he used seat belts tied around the exhaust manifolds,i have since used them the to install a flathead with good results

 

[51504bat]

I bought a 53 caddy motor off a guy he used seat belts tied around the exhaust manifolds,i have since used them the to install a flathead with good results

Only problem with using the exhaust manifolds is that they tend to crack. Not saying that I haven't used them myself but just a note of caution.

 

[Gumpy]

Ive always picked by exhaust bolts....stronger than other areas!

 

[retep]

I don’t know where I got this from but I have used several times. It has no identification. It fits in the engine with the intake manifold removed. Sorry I don’t have any pictures of in use.
Anybody have any ideas ?

 

[leon bee]

Whenever I see it lifted by those carb studs, it isn't the studs I'm thinking about. I've seen an awful lot of busted cast iron on other things. I'm sure the carb stud approach works fine, just can't quite do it myself.

 

[corvette8n]

I use a plate from Stumpys fab works, he has a couple of types, I bought the middle one, see pic.

 

[JSeery]

I use one that I made that is similar to the one Stumpy's sells. Very similar to the one I use on 5.0 FI engines.

 

[Mart]

I don’t know where I got this from but I have used several times. It has no identification. It fits in the engine with the intake manifold removed. Sorry I don’t have any pictures of in use.
Anybody have any ideas ?

I have a home brewed version of this, made from a heavy piece of angle, and a plate with a hole for the hook. It just slips into the valve camber Great for moving bare blocks in situations where you don't have much headroom. For instance loading into a car with a tailgate with a cherry picker type engine hoist.

The only drawback with mine is that it will slip back and forth. If I use it again I will put some blobs of weld on to fit the shape of the runners.

Mart.

 

[V8 Bob]

The best method I've found is using 3/8" flat stock on the front and rear exhaust ports along with an equalizer. This eliminates using bell housing, head and intake bolts, water pumps etc. The only parts that need removal on a complete engine/trans are the exhaust manifolds.


Finally learned how to post pictures here!