Lifting 30 Tudor body

[hammondite]

Good morning all.

I've completed all the mechanical stuff on the front end, now it's time for the rear end, including completing welding the prior owner spot welded.

It appears the best way to do this work is by removing the body. I'm not too concerned about what to disconnect, etc. as that was done before, and the body is minimally attached.

My question - what is the best method to lift the body off the frame? Can I lift it from above by building a wood frame in the top? Or a wood frame in the window or door openings? Or multistage by jacking it from below, putting lumber underneath and lifting that way? Or??

I'm 67 and most of my friends are at least that old. Methods that don't risk injury are appreciated.

As always, I appreciate any guidance.

 

[Brentwood Bob]

Try saw horses and 2x4s, you could go corner by corner, or back then front. 4 young bucks can lift the body as a unit. A floor Jack is your friend. Just watch your rafter clearances. Baby steps.

 

[nkaminar]

I am also interested methods because I am planning the same on my Fordor. I was thinking of using a floor jack and some timber. It is just me, no helpers. I just have to lift it high enough to get the front fenders off to re paint them. I am planning on letting the body rest on some wood blocks on the frame while I work on the fenders. Maybe 6 inches off the frame.

 

[Brentwood Bob]

Try saw horses and 2x4s, you could go corner by corner, or back then front. 4 young bucks can lift the body as a unit. A floor Jack is your friend. Just watch your rafter clearances. Baby steps.

By elevating the body you can rollout the chassis. I don't trust trusses to handle much weight.
A 4wheel base that the detached body can set on, is an alternative.

 

[Big hammer]

2 2X6’s through the doors windows will work but the backside will hang down a little, I opted for 2X6’s doubled through the doors windows and through the quarter windows with a spreader bar between the two wooden members. The spreader was square 2 in tubing with lifting eyes in the middle, it was safe too work under the body and was steady. I made a beam of 2-3 2X12 and 4X4 posts nailed to the sides of my garage and used two chain hoists.

 

[Marshall V. Daut]

Here's how I removed a HEAVY Town Sedan body from the frame using 4" x 4" timbers and solid cement building blocks. Once alternately jacked up high enough, I slid the frame out from underneath. This could be done with the chassis still assembled, but you'd have to place the body up very high to clear the rear crossmember. It would help to use dolly rollers to lower the chassis instead of retaining the wheels and tires.
Marshall

 

[Marshall V. Daut]

And here's the body going back onto the assembled chassis. I used bare 19" wheels when doing this.
Marshall

 

[Pete]

Taking the body off of a 2 door model A is relatively easy job from the top.
From a safety standpoint, I would not recommend doing it from the bottom. (jacks and cribbing)
The first thing you will need is a SAFE point to hang a chain hoist. If you have changed engines with the hoist then you should be ok doing a body.
I used 2 padded straps rated at 1000 lb. single. I rigged through the windows. One near the windshield and one near the back of the back side windows.

(be sure to CLOSELY inspect the straps for frays, cuts and worn spots before using)

I took a short trial lift to determine the balance point, then rigged a small strap at each end to keep the big ones in place.
After clearing all of the various wires, steering and other "stuff", I picked the body up about 4 inches. I removed the bolts and wood blocks, (nuts removed previously) MARKING EACH FOR LOCATION.
I then lifted the body high enough to roll the chassis out.
I then lowered the body to sit on the floor.
I would NOT recommend trying to work under the lifted body.

If you are planning on an increase in hp, I would recommend replacing the original wood body blocks with stainless steel blocks. Get the dimensions from the marked original wood blocks. Use grade 8 or 9 bolts and Marsden nuts in any case.

 

[JayJay]

I lifted my 30 Town Sedan body off the frame starting by jacking as Marshall did, then 4x4s under the body. I then ran slings from the 4x4s to an overhead gantry crane, then lifted the body using the crane. This turned out to be quite awkward, and I won’t reinstall that way. Instead, I plan to take the chassis down to either bare 16” wheels or else maybe backing plates on furniture dollies and roll it underneath the body. Then jack the chassis up to the body. Removing the body the 4x4s got hung up on the rear tires and I had trouble lifting it high enough to slide the chassis forward.

I did the raising using a floor jack at the body rear and two bottle jacks, one on each side. I had to make some plywood boxes for the bottle jacks, and another to fit on top of the floor jack to get it high enough to get the rear body wood crossmember.

 

[katy]

I've completed all the mechanical stuff on the front end, now it's time for the rear end, including completing welding the prior owner spot welded.

What exactly needs welding? Maybe you don't need to lift the body.

 

[Ayers1]

I took my 30 Tudor off a few years ago by running heavy duty ratchet straps over several rafters in my garage and under the body. I took my time and raised a little at a time. When one ran out of room to ratchet any more I made sure the other 3 had the weight and I reset the strap. It took a while but it worked for me. I just finished doing my 31 town sedan the same way last weekend. Of course this doesn't work as well if you're not planning on painting the car.