lifter bores

R

rocket1

Well-known member
I'm running straight stem valves with adjustable lifters,how much can I cut the lifter bores down to be able to adjust the valve clearance?
 
rocket1 said:
I'm running straight stem valves with adjustable lifters,how much can I cut the lifter bores down to be able to adjust the valve clearance?
Click to expand...

I would NOT cut them at all.
They are already marginal and probably quite worn.
Very few rebuilt model A engines ever get the lifter bores reconditioned.
 
I agree with Pete, and would NOT cut the bores. Spend the few extra minutes to adjust the valves. In your lifetime, the extra effort would probably be less than an hour.
 
I have done a bunch of A engines and never found a need to cut the bores down. It is a very bad idea. Not only will it let the lifer rock it will also reduce the oil pressure to the rear main by reducing the height of the oil dam. Maybe not that much but every little bit counts. They made that dam that high for a reason.
 
Last edited:
rocket1 said:
I'm running straight stem valves with adjustable lifters,how much can I cut the lifter bores down to be able to adjust the valve clearance?
Click to expand...

I'm with majority opinion here..do not cut down bores. Did you check bore size for excess clearance ? I'm going thru same adjusting process right now. Just takes time, but my B is setting in a cradle on the floor. Nice position for adjusting :) ! What process, if any, are you using ? I've finally (think) that I've found the easiest process, i.e.- rule of 9s !
However, without seeing cam, I'm having trouble figuring out when cam lobe FOOT is bottomed out on lifter foot ?
 
hardtimes said:
I'm with majority opinion here..do not cut down bores. Did you check bore size for excess clearance ? I'm going thru same adjusting process right now. Just takes time, but my B is setting in a cradle on the floor. Nice position for adjusting :) ! What process, if any, are you using ? I've finally (think) that I've found the easiest process, i.e.- rule of 9s !
However, without seeing cam, I'm having trouble figuring out when cam lobe FOOT is bottomed out on lifter foot ?
Click to expand...
I find the easiest way is to turn the motor by the crank till the lifter is full up to adjust and turn the crank 1 full turn to check.
 
I have never found it to be necessary to cut the lifter bores down to adjust the valves. This is just a lazy mans way.
 
Off topic a bit but the Model B engine that I rebuilt for my 28 Open Pickup Had really worn lifter bores. Some where I don't remember I found a set of Chrysler lifters that were over size. I used them with the adjustable part of the ford after market lifter. The Chrysler part was to long. I put the block on my Jet Mill and bought a bunch of reamers from Grizzly, I lived just north of their store in Springfield, Missouri at the time, and reamed out the lifter bores. I haven't run the engine yet.
 
JEC said:
Off topic a bit but the Model B engine that I rebuilt for my 28 Open Pickup Had really worn lifter bores. Some where I don't remember I found a set of Chrysler lifters that were over size. I used them with the adjustable part of the ford after market lifter. The Chrysler part was to long. I put the block on my Jet Mill and bought a bunch of reamers from Grizzly, I lived just north of their store in Springfield, Missouri at the time, and reamed out the lifter bores. I haven't run the engine yet.
Click to expand...

The process is much the same these days.
 

Attachments

  • B engine guide machining.jpg
    B engine guide machining.jpg
    61.3 KB · Views: 65
JEC said:
Off topic a bit but the Model B engine that I rebuilt for my 28 Open Pickup Had really worn lifter bores. Some where I don't remember I found a set of Chrysler lifters that were over size. I used them with the adjustable part of the ford after market lifter. The Chrysler part was to long. I put the block on my Jet Mill and bought a bunch of reamers from Grizzly, I lived just north of their store in Springfield, Missouri at the time, and reamed out the lifter bores. I haven't run the engine yet.
Click to expand...

Hey JEC,
Nah, not off topic at all :) ! You cut the bores, just in a different manner.
BTW..I got the book , recently written by a member here, and studied it. You / anyone would enjoy/benefit from contents of this great book. Anyway, when it came to section regarding lifters, I took the advice and got me a set of old Chrysler lifters for my B. Another real knowledgeable member here instructed me on use of these lifters. Turns out, he has purchased an expensive reamer...exactly the size needed to install the single nut/lock Chrysler lifters...piece of cake with that hand tool ! Now what to do with extra tall (compared to model A/B) lifters. Well, he also instructed me regarding correct springs and shortening valves procedure. This info is also contained in book mentioned. Well, no lifter to bore slop/movement and as a bonus...biggest BIGFOOT on a lifter that will still fit in my B without mods ! I'm now with a full short block that I'm trying to adjust those Chrysler lifters in. So, you have company :D ! Let me know if I can help with your B project
Hey James,
Thanks for the adjustment tip, regarding crank ! BTW, these lifters TURN as the cam passes thru them..is that normal in A/B engines ! Pete here did the cam/lifters as a match...and they look outstanding !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top