40 FourDrDlx
Member
Here's another plate restorer. http://www.oldlicensefarm.com/
License Plate Restoration
- Thread starter JM 35 Sedan
- Start date
Conrad Rossi
Senior Member
Hello,
I purchased a "garage art" license plate and decided to attempt restoring it and see how it goes. It is not completed yet but, it might encourage someone to restore their own license plate. Note that I paid $5.00 and used a $9.00 bottle of Metal Rust
1. The plate as I bought it with a couple of metal brush strokes to test how bad it was [Pix LP001 & LP002]
2. I used a metal brush to remove 75 years of rust, dirt, and grim and anything that could have attahed [Pix LP003 & LP004]
3. Following Metal Rust's instructions and soaked the plate in oil eater, let it sit for 15 minutes and scrub it again with the metal brush [Pix LP005 & LP006]
4. Note that at this point as the plate cleans, rust, dirt, and deposits of all sorts start to the flake off; therefore, pin holes and bigger than a pin orifices start to show [Pix LP007]
5. After drying the plate with my heat gun, I placed the plate on top of a light to assess "the damage". The white spots actually show the light coming through the plate like a jack-o-lantern [Pix LP008 & LP009]
6. I placed the plate in a container and covered with Rust Remover for about 4 hrs. About every hour, I stirred the plate and used the metal brush to aid the solution. The solution goes from clear to green, to almost brown. The longer it soaks the darker it gets [LP010]
7. I removed the plate and gave it gentle brush on the front and the back. Note that rust washed away. Blackish deposits is Carbon that deposits as part of the chemical reaction [Pix LP011]
8. After total 14 hours (yes, I did not follow instructions as I was constantly checking), I removed the plate and rinsed. Then, I dried it with a clean rug. Most rust flakes disappeared, but I was not sure that they were either grim and rust, or thicker rust flakes. I did not care for flash rust as I either had to go with my Dremel and mechanically remove the flakes to clean it. [Pix LP012 & LP013].
9. After using the Dremel with a circular metal brush on the front and back of the plate, I used a trim hammer, and improvised an anvil with my four-inch feel and persuaded the plate to become flat. Then I used a combination of metal chisels and punches to revive the numbers and stamping [Pix LP014 & LP015]
10. Total hands-on the project: about two hours
11. To be continued... However the plan is to soak it again in Metal Rust, clean it, persuade it again with the trim hammer, apply some sort of rust blocker, fill and reconstruct missing parts with epoxy and/or JB Weld, sand it, apply epoxy primer, sand, prime again, sand, prime, sand, prime, paint base color, cut stencils for the letters/numbers, paint numbers, retouch, apply UV clear coat, hand on my garage --do not have a 35' Ford yet.
Keep you posted.
I purchased a "garage art" license plate and decided to attempt restoring it and see how it goes. It is not completed yet but, it might encourage someone to restore their own license plate. Note that I paid $5.00 and used a $9.00 bottle of Metal Rust
1. The plate as I bought it with a couple of metal brush strokes to test how bad it was [Pix LP001 & LP002]
2. I used a metal brush to remove 75 years of rust, dirt, and grim and anything that could have attahed [Pix LP003 & LP004]
3. Following Metal Rust's instructions and soaked the plate in oil eater, let it sit for 15 minutes and scrub it again with the metal brush [Pix LP005 & LP006]
4. Note that at this point as the plate cleans, rust, dirt, and deposits of all sorts start to the flake off; therefore, pin holes and bigger than a pin orifices start to show [Pix LP007]
5. After drying the plate with my heat gun, I placed the plate on top of a light to assess "the damage". The white spots actually show the light coming through the plate like a jack-o-lantern [Pix LP008 & LP009]
6. I placed the plate in a container and covered with Rust Remover for about 4 hrs. About every hour, I stirred the plate and used the metal brush to aid the solution. The solution goes from clear to green, to almost brown. The longer it soaks the darker it gets [LP010]
7. I removed the plate and gave it gentle brush on the front and the back. Note that rust washed away. Blackish deposits is Carbon that deposits as part of the chemical reaction [Pix LP011]
8. After total 14 hours (yes, I did not follow instructions as I was constantly checking), I removed the plate and rinsed. Then, I dried it with a clean rug. Most rust flakes disappeared, but I was not sure that they were either grim and rust, or thicker rust flakes. I did not care for flash rust as I either had to go with my Dremel and mechanically remove the flakes to clean it. [Pix LP012 & LP013].
9. After using the Dremel with a circular metal brush on the front and back of the plate, I used a trim hammer, and improvised an anvil with my four-inch feel and persuaded the plate to become flat. Then I used a combination of metal chisels and punches to revive the numbers and stamping [Pix LP014 & LP015]
10. Total hands-on the project: about two hours
11. To be continued... However the plan is to soak it again in Metal Rust, clean it, persuade it again with the trim hammer, apply some sort of rust blocker, fill and reconstruct missing parts with epoxy and/or JB Weld, sand it, apply epoxy primer, sand, prime again, sand, prime, sand, prime, paint base color, cut stencils for the letters/numbers, paint numbers, retouch, apply UV clear coat, hand on my garage --do not have a 35' Ford yet.
Keep you posted.
Attachments
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
Thank you all for your help and information.
itsa52
Well-known member
By watching ePay I was l was lucky enough to not only find the State and year,, but also my county, and pristine a set of 2.. I was willing to pay a lot more than I needed to..
Ended up paying more for two red reflectors qualified to hold them on than I did for the plates.
Gotta LUV the internet auctions and patience.
Ended up paying more for two red reflectors qualified to hold them on than I did for the plates.
Gotta LUV the internet auctions and patience.
fordoholic
Junior Member
I've restored a few plates, but the ones I just finished were the easiest and turned out the best. After the necessary prep and epoxy primer I rattle-canned the plates with the color of the letters then several coats of clear followed by the back ground color. With a firm sanding block and 1500 or 2000 grit I removed the back ground color from the letters and trim and finished with more clear. Texas DMV loved em.
rgtharley
Senior Member
John,
The guy Reds mentioned, Wayne Tyler, is excellent, and very fair. I have bought quite a few motorcycle tags from him, and never had a complaint. He was vending at the Frederick AACA swap meet last year. There is also a guy named Darryl, in PA, who restores tags, and he also does a great job for a reasonable cost. I'll have to look up his number for you.
Bob
The guy Reds mentioned, Wayne Tyler, is excellent, and very fair. I have bought quite a few motorcycle tags from him, and never had a complaint. He was vending at the Frederick AACA swap meet last year. There is also a guy named Darryl, in PA, who restores tags, and he also does a great job for a reasonable cost. I'll have to look up his number for you.
Bob
Robert/Texas
Well-known member
I had several sets of Texas license plates restored by Darryl about 15 or 20 years ago. He did a great job, his prices were reasonable and they all have held up well. My only compaint was that it took a long time. I would definately use his services again.
AlDeBear
Senior Member
For What It Might Be Worth;
On the H.A.M.B. & especially Post#81
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=765951&highlight=license+plate&showall=1
On the H.A.M.B. & especially Post#81
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=765951&highlight=license+plate&showall=1
