License Plate Letters

For best results use "1 Shot" enamel applied with a Speedball brayer from Michaels. All materials needed are shown in this picture I took at the Chickasha OK Prewar meet. A couple of our club members have perfected this method and taught many others at seminars. Put some paint on a piece of tin foil and roll it out until it covers the roller evenly. The straighter the plate the less touchup work you will have. The enamel letters can be corrected after rolling with a Q-tip and turpentine for excess paint removal. And an artists brush for addition of color at edges of letters and beads where lacking. If you screw up just clean the whole thing with turpentine and a rag and start over. After you are satisfied with the letters you shoot a clear coat. Read the "1 Shot" urethane clear coat tutorial on their website. I am presently using Nason 2K paint. Without the clear coat the letters will eventually start to come off over the long run of several years as did a set I have that are about 15 years old.
 

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Instead of wiping off the wet paint, let it dry and use rubbing compound to clean off the top of the letters, down to the first coat.
I have never done his, but read about it.
MIKE :) (mikeburch)
 
I'm assuming (which is never good) that you spray all the background color first, then use the brayer to apply the numbering. Yes?
 
I paint the straight lines with an old ruling pen. Then I fill in between the lines and carefully free hand the curves. I use One Shot enamel that I mix to the proper color. It takes me about an hour for one plate.
 
I have used the brayer method, but the paint for the numbers must be thick enough to cover the background color, but if too thick, it will leave wisps of paint at the edges as the brayer is rolled.
I have also painted the numbers by hand with a soft artist's brush. After my stroke I could not do that very well, but after a few years my hand is steady enough to do it again.
 

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A friend who does them uses paint sticks/pens. Go to my profile and albums. In there, I have some pics of my attempts at lettering a 1930 Pa plate.
Terry



Temclad "Recreation White" from Canadian Tire is a match for the background white on a 1930 Ontario Plate. I have painted this on a set of plates which I intend to put on my 30 Town Sedan but haven't painted the black letters yet. This plate matched the 30 Ontario plates on my Roadster which have been approved by the Ontario MTO. The Roadster plates, which I bought, were restored by Jon Upton - ontplates.com - out of Ottawa

I am still working on an approach to paint the black letters
 
I have restored at least 85 plates and tried all methods and ideas.The best that works for me is to use a eco friendly chemical remover.Much easier on the plate than media blasting.Paint the background and then use a paint pen with a fine tip for the letters and numbers.Outline them first and then fill in.Works for me.omo
 
It's been many years ago, but my wife at the time did a '31 Texas plate using one of the cheapy foam rubber brushes that you can get at the hardware store. Sprayed the background color and let it dry good then she trimmed the width of the brush to the width of the numbers/letters and used hardware store enamel. It's got a few dings but it is still on the front of my "A" today and still looks decent.
 
I tried rolling, brushing and even blotting. Paint to thin or to thick. Finally did what Dan/Kzo said. Primed and shot 4 or 5 coats of numeral color, followed by 1 good coat of background color. Let it set overnight and sanded with 500 grit wet. These were done last week.
 

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I painted the plate first, let fully dry. Then put blue masking tape over numbers/lettering, covered rest of plate with newspaper (or you can mask the whole thing off). Took a light to mid sandpaper and sanded the edges of the numbers cutting the tape, then removed the tape revealing the number. Painted the numbers/lettering and let dry, removed all tape. Then lightly wet sanded the edges of the numbers with ultra fine sandpaper and polished out the plate. Gave the numbers a nice faded edge like original, not too sharp. Worked great on the smaller lettering on the plate too and a lot easier as all you need to do is sand right on top of the letters to reveal the metal.

I am doing some 1957 Alberta plates for the wife's Bel Air. This sounds like it might work for me.

I was going to try and emulate the original process by painting the back ground and then rolling paint on the letters with a hard rubber roller.
 
Here is what I did,

I painted the number/letters color first.

I placed a piece on "contact" paper over the plate. Using a sharp hobby knife I cut around the raised portion leaving about 1/8 inch hanging over. Once all the raised areas were covered and the rest removed I once again used my finger and light pressure to be sure the areas were covered with the 1/8 inch still hanging over the edge in the air. I then take the background color and spray on an angle so the paint goes under the 1/8" hang over. Spray the rest of the plate and let dry. Remove the contact paper and touch up if needed. Then apply a coat or two of clear. This will soften the base colors a little and smooth any touch ups as well as giving a nice shine and protection to the paint.
 
I tried rolling, brushing and even blotting. Paint to thin or to thick. Finally did what Dan/Kzo said. Primed and shot 4 or 5 coats of numeral color, followed by 1 good coat of background color. Let it set overnight and sanded with 500 grit wet. These were done last week.

Your method worked great.
I never would have expected the numbers to come out so perfect this way.:)
 
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