licence plate refinish

I've had good luck with Duane Wells in Michigan. He advertises in the V-8 Times. Make sure you send him plates that are nice and straight. Reasonable prices and good turn around time.
 
I've had good luck with Duane Wells in Michigan. He advertises in the V-8 Times. Make sure you send him plates that are nice and straight. Reasonable prices and good turn around time.

That reminds me, about Darryl... I sent him a (one) plate that was absolute junk - beat up, and couple tears - the opposite of 'nice and straight'. He sent it back perfect - couldn't see the welds, front OR back, and the back looks as straight as the front. And, he duplicated the plate. Again, perfect. Price was reasonable. (And, as already noted, the time required, was excessive.) Just sayin...
On the other hand, I've used a 'plate guy' in Bakersfield (can't remember name), that I would have trouble recommending, if you really want quality.
This guy is not a good body-man - the plate came back 'pretty good', but not perfectly straight. His paint work is good. But, the thing that turned me off - he clear-coated the plate. It does not look anything like what it was originally. On the plus side, he is very quick - no more than a week. I would use him again, but understand the work is a little less than perfect. And, I would ask for no clear-coat.
 
I used these gus and they did a fabulous job. Except now the plate looks brand new and teh truck looks like it is 70+ years old. http://www.restoreatag.com/index.html

GA was the first state to use reflectorized paint. The peach reflects. The year following GA stopped using that very expensive process and didn't start again until the 80's.

Before:
IMG_1596_zpsaa484441.jpg


After:
newtag_zps39d232eb.jpg
 
Regarding normal on-the-road-use, the NY State DMV will not register a plate that has been repainted (maybe they think law enforcement can't see or feel the embossed numbers/letters ? ) .... have to bring in the plate with photo when registering it so they can inspect it.

Use of NYS historic plates on public roads here is limited to travelling to/from car shows/rallies, trips for repairs (I would include non-ethanol gas stations) etc .... i.e. not intended for regular driving.

Bought a '47 plate in good condition; just had to polish it up; only one per car that year. I think it's a commercial plate but DMV didn't notice. Aside from travelling to car shows, I make note of "repair" places in the general direction I want to head. My one old plate has not "delayed" my local travel but I haven't been outside the State yet.

I could never understand NYDMV's reasoning for no painting. You could always just say no when asked. As far as limitations they allow pretty much everything for occasional use. It mirrors the antique insurance requirements. They just don't want it to be a daily driver.
 
I had a 1942 New York redone but took a picture before repair and used that to register. Have since went back to regular plates because of limitations on driving. I like to go driving on Sundays and not the shows.
 
You were very lucky or you live nearby to threaten him. I had him do a set of 1939 plates that were my dad's new about 15 years ago and the work was perfect and the price very fair but it took about a year.Back then they never wanted any type of payment until plates were to be sent out at works completion. I sent him my dad's original set of 1937 plates that are on my coupe 10 years ago and they wanted paid up front and it took 2-3 years of hassle and bs by his wife. Really was relieved to get my dads plates and they are very nice but I will never deal with his wife again and listen to her fairytale after another.

Every time I called they gave me a different story. They went from almost done and just needing buffed out to not in primer yet, yadda yadda. I would've had no problem if they would have been up front with me from the beginning. I got nothing but lip service until I told them to just send my plates back, done or not. Then it only took another month of promises that if I would just hang in there another week.
 
Every time I called they gave me a different story. They went from almost done and just needing buffed out to not in primer yet, yadda yadda. I would've had no problem if they would have been up front with me from the beginning. I got nothing but lip service until I told them to just send my plates back, done or not. Then it only took another month of promises that if I would just hang in there another week.


I am just going to put this down to maybe selecting their expedited service, I don't know. When I called Darryls they did explain I could either get it done at the regular price and it would be ready 'whenever it was ready' OR I could pay an extra $25 for expedited service where they actually tell you when you pay what date the plate will ship to you. I opted for that and they shipped as promised, 3-4 weeks later.
 
1. Glass bead or wire brush the plate down to bare metal.
2. Primer with Rust-oleum.
3. Spray the entire plate with lacquer that matches the number colors. Let cure for about a week.
4. Spray the plate with enamel that matches the background color.
5. Wait for the paint to flash dry and wipe off the numbers with a semi-damp rag soaked in mineral spirits.
6. Have several rags handy, as each letter will take a clean rag. Gently wipe through the enamel on the raised number to the lacquer undercoat.
7. Let the plate dry for several days and clear coat if desired, usually satin enamel, lightly.

Worked for me on two 1932 NM plates.
 
Oh come on guys - just paint the back of the plate - let it dry real good get out a can of One Shot color of the numbers - pull out a good artist paint brush - drink down a couple shots of your favorite hard stuff to steady your hand and paint the numbers - I've several and got a bunch of compliements about my work - trust me it's not that hard if I can do it. Once you done one you will be real proud of the results.
 
Back
Top