Let's drive some rivets!

  • Thread starter Thread starter TD
  • Start date Start date
TD

TD

Senior Member
What is the best way to correctly set frame&running board rivets - head on outside of frame? Hammer on the head and buck the shaft or visa versa. Heat and hammer, heat twice? - I would appreciate input much!
 
I have installed forged runningboard brackets on two frames. The rivet peening is done on the outside. The key is to heat the rivet with an acetylene torch until it is cherry red (almost to the melting point). Then quickly and I mean quickly insert the hot rivet into the hole with some pliers and with a 3X rivet tool or powerful air hammer peen it on the outside. It is definitely a two person operation. I made a buck that was swedged between the to frame members. I think I took some pictures of the operation, but I would have to look for them. I did this about 1 year ago. The riveting turned out well. If you need more information, PM me.
Rusty Nelson
 
I've always heated the rivet while it's in place. Just heat the tip of it with a torch really good until it's just about to start melting, then hit it with an air hammer. It's too hard to heat the rivet and then try to get it into the hole, and it cools way too fast. You probably will need 2 or 3 reheats anyway to get the rivet fully set.

I think I got my rivet tool from Bratton's and I use a cheap air hammer/chisel from Harbor Freight. I've usually used the biggest body dollie I have to buck the backside of the rivet. Some of the crossmember rivets are a real challenge to get properly bucked; some folks have fabbed some neat heavy-duty anvils to use.
 
Terry, the key is the hammer! A "air hammer" is not adequate to do the job satisfactorily in my opinion. It takes a rivet gun, ...which like Rusty we also use a 3X gun. We also use a pencil-tipped torch as the heat is transferred into the shank of the rivet better, and not into the formed head. The total intention is to allow the rivet to swell inside of the drilled hole(s) allowing them to take up all of that area. This is key in making the connection strong. A 3x rivet gun is available at aircraft supply stores, --or sometimes you will find them used on eBay.
 
If the frame is off the running gear, the bucking bar will support the frame and rivet from the ground/concrete floor. Short of that your assistant will need some type of mechanical advantage in order to buck the head of the rivet.
 
Man, you guys have really helped me a lot - so I'm thinking (since my frame is stripped down to zilch) I can lay the frame on its side on a long steel bar to buck.
 
Terry -

As the guys above have said, this is at best a two man job. We replaced running board brackets and a few cross member rivets on a project of mine a couple of years back, and we actually had three of us involved - one to hold the dolly on the back side (be sure to wear some heavy gloves), another to hold and heat the torch, and the third to immediately run the rivet gun before the rivet started to cool down. As others haved also stated, the rivet will cool very quickly once you pull the torch away, so the sooner you can get the rivet gun and bucking bar loaded up the better. Its not a very difficult process, although some of the rivets are much harder to get a dolly in behind than others. Good luck with it - you'll do fine.

Dick
 
Thanks to all the good help. My son and I are going to tackle it next week. It's my second "A" restoration and I'll be sure to jump in to advise when needed.
A mighty fine bunch of guys!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top