Left front brake issue

Hook

Hook

Senior Member
Help!!! My brakes on my 1930 CCPU have been very poor from the day I got her. It sat for many years before I bought her and started restoration. I pulled the brakes last winter and starting going through everything. The rear brakes got new cast iron drums, and the front drums were trued up. I got new woven linings from the brake shop, and they were arched to the drums. I put in a rebuilt cross shaft to ensure all the slop was taken out. New clevises, oversized pins, etc to get the system as tight as I could. When I removed the left front brake to begin the work, the wedge was rusted to the bolt.
After putting everything back together and adjusting the brakes, the brakes were still substandard.
The right front brake will lock up on my gravel road with no problem. The left front brake won't lock up at all on the gravel. I have switched all the parts from the right front to the left front except the backing plate. I just installed a newly rebuilt brake actuating arm, believing that was the only thing left that could be causing the problem. The right side will still lock up, but the left side will not.
The rear brakes are disconnected while I work on the front. I have even tried leaving the right side brake rod disconnected in order to get the left to lock up, and it still won't even with the brakes adjusted with a lot of drag on the left side. I have 3 pills installed on the left side to get the arm angled forward to about 10:30.
I'm using Flat Head Ted's floaters just FYI.
What should I try next? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Happy 4th to every one!
 
Hook, Check your brake rod length. I had a similar problem. Previous owner of my 29 cut one of the front rods off so it was an inch and a half shorter than the other. Happy 4th Tim
 
First, I would recommend to change the vertical rod that you have THREE pills installed under. Sorry I can't give you the exact length but it must be different than the right side. Next, have you measured the FRONT brake rods and have them equal. Here again I don't know the exact measurement but know there is a starting point when setting up the brakes.
Hope this helps some.
Cape Codder
 
I don't know anything about Flat Head Teds floaters. If the brakes were original, I would say that the left brake rod needs to be adjusted. I don't care what Les says, there is NO exact number length adjustment for the brake rods. The late 28 through 31 brake rods were made adjustable for a reason. I adjust the brake clevices so that the clevis pins will just slip in the brake levers with NO slack. Model A brakes are probably the simplest brakes that exist!!
 
Thanks for the suggestions so far. I replaced the operating pins with new ones, and didn't see any difference in length. I also switched them from one side to the other. I also switched the service brake rods for the front from the right side that works fine to the left side that doesn't. I have the clevis on the left side adjusted so there is slight pressure on the brake rod when the clevis pin is inserted. The right side is so easy to adjust and get to lock up, but not luck on the left side. I think I have something really unusual going on. Could something with the kingpin or something in the backing plate cause slop in the left side brake? Thanks again for all the suggestions!
 
Hook,
Have you had the left brake drum removed and operated the brakes while on a jack stand? This way you would know that everything is operating INSIDE the drum.
cape Codder
 
L brake shoes arced and centered?? F/Head Ted's in LF installed correctly?? Is there by any chance grease or contamination of any sort on the left shoes? Paul in CT
 
Thanks guys for the questions and help in trying to figure this out. There isn't any grease or contamination on the drums or shoes. They are dry and having changed everything from the operating right side to the non performing left side had no affect on the braking on the left. I have operated the brakes with the drum removed, and compared it to the right side and don't see any difference as the shoes move out just fine. Today I had my son press on the brakes with the tire off, but the drum on and adjusted with the shoes tight. I'm getting some movement in the whole assembly when the brake is depressed. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the wheel on the right side, hook up the rod to that side, unhook the left side and see if it moves the same amount. If the right side doesn't move at all, then it has to have something loose in the front end allowing the movement front to back when the brake is depressed.
Thanks again for any and all suggestions. When I get this solved, I'll be sure to post the results.
 
The left side has significant "flex" compared to the right side. The brake pedal will drop about 2 inches from the floor with only the left side hooked up, and only drops about 2 inches when only the right side is attached. The play seems to be in the spring perch, but I think it's probably the wish bone attaching point. I read in a prior thread from last year about a similar problem and fix with some shims. If that's not it, I guess the axle will have to come off to remove the spring perch, and I might as well replace the front springs, shackles etc.
More to follow.
 
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