Leather Seat Color Change
- Thread starter BadgerA
- Start date
Ed in Maine
Well-known member
I read your post and I am concerned. I have ordered leather for my 68C and was satisfied with the samples that I got with the quote (light tan). Are you working with Glasstique? My order is delayed by choice because I spend the winter in Florida and not where the car is located. I won't get the kit until next June. Did you see samples prior to your order? What materials did you select for the door panels? Is the leather for the rumble seat the same as the inside seat? My car color is Kewanne Green and Elkpoint Green. What is the color of your car?
This car is my favorite body style but if I knew the amount of work involved to restore this car, I probably would not have purchased the car. My car has all new wood including the door jams. Last summer was a major mile stone because I finally installed the striker plates and was able to close the doors. They close perfectly with 1/8 in. gaps. I spent over a month installing the sheet metal to the sub-frames and adjusting the body shims to get this fit. One modification I did make was to install a lead bar (1 in. x 3 in. x 8 in. behind the wooden door jams. I used wood screws to fasten the bars to the door jams. The doors close like they are on a Packard instead of a Ford!
I would like to hear more about our interior material and hope it goes OK for you. Ed
This car is my favorite body style but if I knew the amount of work involved to restore this car, I probably would not have purchased the car. My car has all new wood including the door jams. Last summer was a major mile stone because I finally installed the striker plates and was able to close the doors. They close perfectly with 1/8 in. gaps. I spent over a month installing the sheet metal to the sub-frames and adjusting the body shims to get this fit. One modification I did make was to install a lead bar (1 in. x 3 in. x 8 in. behind the wooden door jams. I used wood screws to fasten the bars to the door jams. The doors close like they are on a Packard instead of a Ford!
I would like to hear more about our interior material and hope it goes OK for you. Ed
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Leather hides that have already been through the process of finishing can be recolored but it can be a tedious process with mixed results. I'm not a fan of paints on leather so I personally can't recommend that. Dyes are dependent on the surface condition of the leather prior to reapplication. The pieces can come out spotty if there are any contaminants on the surface layer. It can be very difficult to properly clean things to get a uniform change in dye absorption.
Google "how to re-dye old leather" for the complex process. The term "old" in this case would apply to any leather upholstery that has been used for any length of time. It absorbs just about any moisture or oil that makes contact with it and that can affect absorption rates of dye in the outer surface. Leather can be a bear to clean & deglaze without damaging the stitches or welting.
Google "how to re-dye old leather" for the complex process. The term "old" in this case would apply to any leather upholstery that has been used for any length of time. It absorbs just about any moisture or oil that makes contact with it and that can affect absorption rates of dye in the outer surface. Leather can be a bear to clean & deglaze without damaging the stitches or welting.
BadgerA
Senior Member
I purchased the car already restored. The interior was originally from Classtique and I am sure will be acceptable to the vast majority. I happen to be very fortunate to live near Bill Sturm's shop and visit often. I had a long discussion about the interior as that has been his specialty for decades. Bear in mind he does fine point cars. He showed me samples of original leather that was used on the A400 and 68C as well as the artificial leather used on the door and kick panels, rumble area and side bolsters on the front seat. Originally the leather went through a two step process where the base leather was dyed and then a darker dye was applied after that "filled in" the recesses in the leather The final color was much darker than the current leather used. The leather also had a much more pronounced pattern.
The artificial leather also was much darker and was used on the door and kick panels, front seat side bolsters, and rumble area. In defense of the suppliers, it is very expensive to acquire the correct materials and colors and the average buyer would not pay what it would cost. I was thinking of dyeing the current materials a darker color to simulate the original but when all is said and done will most likely just live with the current set up. Almost no one will either care or know the difference. I just happen to like to stay as close to original as possible. That's just me. As an aside, if I were restoring a car myself I would probably stick with bedford cord which also is not always of the correct shade by the way. Sorry for the long winded replay. I am sure you will be happy with your choice.
The artificial leather also was much darker and was used on the door and kick panels, front seat side bolsters, and rumble area. In defense of the suppliers, it is very expensive to acquire the correct materials and colors and the average buyer would not pay what it would cost. I was thinking of dyeing the current materials a darker color to simulate the original but when all is said and done will most likely just live with the current set up. Almost no one will either care or know the difference. I just happen to like to stay as close to original as possible. That's just me. As an aside, if I were restoring a car myself I would probably stick with bedford cord which also is not always of the correct shade by the way. Sorry for the long winded replay. I am sure you will be happy with your choice.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
With leather, no two hides are exactly the same. They can be similar enough to get good quality results when upholstering thankfully. Trying to change that after the fact is always risky.
I once stripped some combat boots almost all the way down to bare leather. I wanted to change black to something different so I went with cordovan. I cleaned and polished them well enough that the die took pretty well but boots don't have much of a surface area and the two are far enough apart that a slight color difference isn't perceptible by most folks,
I once stripped some combat boots almost all the way down to bare leather. I wanted to change black to something different so I went with cordovan. I cleaned and polished them well enough that the die took pretty well but boots don't have much of a surface area and the two are far enough apart that a slight color difference isn't perceptible by most folks,
rotorwrench
Well-known member
It's certainly very tricky to go lighter. The hide has to be pretty well stripped of color in order to change to a lighter color. It's really not practical on upholstery. It's easier to start over with the hides you want. I state this because I have my own walking foot machine to do the job. It will cost folks pretty dearly if the hire out the job.