Learning To Drive a Model T

[Mountain Dew]

I'm a Model A man from way back. I got bit by the Model T bug and bought a 1914 Runabout. Rebuilt the carburetor, coils, coil box, replaced timer pulled head and blew out scale from water jacket, tightened rod bearings so the engine starts and runs reliably. Next I need to go through the running gear and perfect my driving skills. I'm still getting used to the operation of a Model T. I'm looking for pointers or exercises I can do to hone my skills and build my confidence in driving my Model T.

 

[J Franklin]

You will build your driving skills and confidence by driving it. The most important thing I learned when learning was not to think of the left pedal as a clutch, especially driving into the garage! Untill I got this I would pull the brake handle halfway entering the garage and not pushing the "CLUTCH"

 

[A bones]

Congratulations. I am a great fan of the A models, but life handed me a T. The result became a Second childhood.
First, gotta say, You know You have taken the very important steps to getting it roadworthy.
Foremost driving tip is the managing of your pedals, and getting down the road.
Keep this in mind your low speed pedal is not a clutch ( or friction plate ). Other cars take off (( launch, I like to say )) by slipping the flywheel against a friction plate ( clutch ) . The clutch disc is resistant to heat and friction.
The bands in the T trans are usually woven material belts of cotton or, new age, kevlar and also, back when, wood strips.
Cotton is faster to wear out than kevlar; and wood, while durable, is fussy to work. The bigger issue though, is heat build up.
I learned while reading Murray Fahnstock's Model T FordOwner (sic) the handy trick used by na RD Postal worker. He explained to Murray that upon the start-out, launch he would solidly clamp the slow speed band (stomp the pedal ) at the same moment that he fully opened the gas valve.
The ratio of the of the gearing and tire size allows for the car to move out, no fuss, until it gets to eight or ten MPH. At that time the engine needs to slow down.
Then shut the valve and shove the Park / Clutch lever fully forward to high gear. Then regulate the valve to suit.
This practice allowed him to run his route for many years without needing band replacement.
I adopted this practice early on and have had great results.
Shutting the gas is the first step to stopping.
I bought a set of kevlar bands and they sit on the shelf after many years.
As a pokey typist I notice J Franklin has also refered to this.
Nice way to enter the garage J.
Surely, you know to run the tires at 55-PSI.
If there is no ( lint ) screen underneath your trans inspection cover,,, order one.
Very important for keeping oil flowing through the motor.
Mine came with one in the spare parts box. very important.
As a survivor car, there was a slight knock at speed.
I cleaned a lot of lint from the housing area.
With the radiator and front ( cam ) cover, and spark plugs removed while spinning the motor using 12 volts I found that oil was not traveling to the front of the engine.
So using a piece of 1/4" thread stock, as long as the engine, chucked in my drill motor. ( Having cut the end with a bolt cutter, to give it a sort of pinched blade )
I drilled into the oil passage. At first it would not reach the flywheel area. using pressure and time I made it through the lint.
The battery was now able to create flowing oil at the front.
No more Knock.
Your experience with A models will serve you well with all the rest of it.

 

[Mountain Dew]

That's the first I've heard of 55-PSI. I'll do it. I installed the lint screen in the transmission inspection cover.
I will try the "Stomp" method of launching. I will practice this using three point turns.
I guess I need to think of the controls as a "low speed" pedal and a "high speed" lever.

 

[stevests]

Recommended pressure for clincher tires are 65 lbs. for 30 x 3 (24") & 60 lbs. for 30 x 3.5 (23").

 

[Dodge]

Good looking car. Congradulations!
Good advice above. About pulling the parking brake back to neutral while moving the car
around in close quarters.
I always pull it back to neutral to go into reverse, it gets the clutch pedal out of the way
from my big fat feet and makes reversing much easier.
Another good thing is to join a local Model T Club and ride around with a member on a few tours sitting in the front seat and observing.
I sat next to my Dad for years growing up and when I got the chance to finally drive
I drove it like a pro.

 

[Dan McEachern]

dont stomp- press down firmly and quickly then hold the pedal down hard. Stomping will only jerk you and the drivetrain- kinda like dumping the clutch on a regular car.

 

[A bones]

Hi Dan I get why you say what you have said.
I would compliment you for that.
At the same time tho, I shall point out that the weight, the horsepower, and the gearing, are not anywhere like a "regular car".

 

[CHuDWah]

I have no advice to offer other than a quote from my uncle (who grew up in the T era), "Ya gotta be a damn octopus to drive one!"

 

[39portlander]

there are actually some real good driving videos on the youtube, and MTFCA video 7-1 How to start and drive a model T featuring Matt Foye is excellent.

Most importantly plan your stops waaaaay in advance, you only have minimal rear brakes @ best.

If you can get them, put on a set of Rocky Mtn accessory brakes, and LOGO lights make a nice run/brake & turn signal add-on. Folks now-AH-daised have no Idea what hand signals are

I looked @ your runbout again, that is a nice Brass era example.

 

[rotorwrench]

I always thought of the left pedal as the GO-Pedal, the right pedal as the Slow down Pedal, and the middle pedal as the Go Back-pedal. The lever on the left is the hold & release lever with emergency stop when all else isn't cutting it.

Folks that drove model T cars hard and fast, got used to stomping the right pedal and grabbing for the E-brake lever when they needed to slow down in a hurry. Folks that drove them with safety in mind tended to be more mindful of anticipating their slow down actions early and were more apt to adjust the throttle more carefully then ease into braking for stops. If a person has ever driven a horse and buggy, they tend to anticipate things better but they also don't expect to get there in a hurry.

When the left pedal became the clutch release pedal in later model cars like the model A, I wonder how long it took folks to get used to the change over. In the model A cars, the Go-Pedal changed all the way over to the right side so it was sort of a big switcheroo on new owners of model As. At least a person no longer needed three arms to drive the car.