leaky water pump
- Thread starter o2bnkc
- Start date
o2bnkc
Member
I guess I should take the fan and radiator out. It seems like that would make it easier, or is it worth the trouble?
MGG
Senior Member
I would not take the radiator and fan out to replace the pumps. It would be a little easier but I do not think it would be easier enough to offset the trouble of putting the radiator, fan and shroud back in. I had the radiator out on my 40 big truck for reconditioning and it was a bear to get it, the hoses, and shroud back in with the clearances needed. I would have both pumps re-built by a reputable vendor. I did both on my 47 truck with everything in. I used Daryl Fryer of Redlands, CA. (Excellent work). He advertises in the V-8 times.
deuce lover
Well-known member
Daryl Fryer X2. When I lived in Calif I personally went to see him and had my 59A pumps done. That car is now in Sweden and after 15 yrs no issues.
ford38v8
Well-known member
A Navy Vet deserves a detailed set of instructions:
Replace both pumps, both motor mounts, both lower radiator hoses, and both sets of hose clamps.
Start by moving your car to a downslope to drain & flush the radiator & block. Use running water to prevent staining your driveway.
Return the car to flat ground to do the work.
Wheel ramps allow you to work under the car safely. Not too high, as some work is to be done topside.
Loosen the fan belt at the generator mount.
With a short length of 2x6 on the cradle of a floor jack, support the front of the oil pan during the work to follow.
Remove the lower hoses and save them to match the replacement hoses.
Remove the nut/bolt of the motor mounts. (This will require lifting the front of the engine, but not higher than necessary to avoid bumping the oil sender at the firewall.)
With a 6 point long socket, remove the bolt from inside the pump's water inlet. Remove the other 3 bolts as well.
The pump will now come off the block with gentle prying.
Inspect the new pump for smooth operation, pulley cracks, nicks, and pulley tightness on its shaft.
Clean the block mounting surface and use a dab of grease to hold the new gasket in place for the installation of the new pump. A couple of temporary studs in the block come in handy now for positioning. Use a stainless steel bolt inside the water inlet, again, with the 6 point socket. Install the other 3 bolts.
Install the new hoses/modern hose clamps with the help of silicone and the floor jack jockeying up/down. Position the hose clamps for accessibility in tightening.
Install the new motor mounts, tighten only enough for the rubber to start bulging.
Replace the fan belt, tighten to a 1" deflection halfway down.
Fill the cooling system while engine running to get out all the air bubbles.
Remember to drive out air bubbles from the heater core if you have one.
Inspect the pulley in operation for wobble.
Water seepage at the shaft can happen, just tap the end of that shaft.
I must have forgotten something, I always do. Go Navy!
Replace both pumps, both motor mounts, both lower radiator hoses, and both sets of hose clamps.
Start by moving your car to a downslope to drain & flush the radiator & block. Use running water to prevent staining your driveway.
Return the car to flat ground to do the work.
Wheel ramps allow you to work under the car safely. Not too high, as some work is to be done topside.
Loosen the fan belt at the generator mount.
With a short length of 2x6 on the cradle of a floor jack, support the front of the oil pan during the work to follow.
Remove the lower hoses and save them to match the replacement hoses.
Remove the nut/bolt of the motor mounts. (This will require lifting the front of the engine, but not higher than necessary to avoid bumping the oil sender at the firewall.)
With a 6 point long socket, remove the bolt from inside the pump's water inlet. Remove the other 3 bolts as well.
The pump will now come off the block with gentle prying.
Inspect the new pump for smooth operation, pulley cracks, nicks, and pulley tightness on its shaft.
Clean the block mounting surface and use a dab of grease to hold the new gasket in place for the installation of the new pump. A couple of temporary studs in the block come in handy now for positioning. Use a stainless steel bolt inside the water inlet, again, with the 6 point socket. Install the other 3 bolts.
Install the new hoses/modern hose clamps with the help of silicone and the floor jack jockeying up/down. Position the hose clamps for accessibility in tightening.
Install the new motor mounts, tighten only enough for the rubber to start bulging.
Replace the fan belt, tighten to a 1" deflection halfway down.
Fill the cooling system while engine running to get out all the air bubbles.
Remember to drive out air bubbles from the heater core if you have one.
Inspect the pulley in operation for wobble.
Water seepage at the shaft can happen, just tap the end of that shaft.
I must have forgotten something, I always do. Go Navy!
Mart
Well-known member
If the car is new to you with low miles it might be that the pump will stop leaking after a while. If you grab the pulley you should be able to pull it outwards a small amount due to the spring pressure on the seal. If it does not move it may indicate things are all rusted up inside and rubber bellows behind the seal is all hard. You might try pulling the pulley on the other pump as a comparison. If you have put some miles on the car and it has not stopped leaking then by all means go ahead and change them.
I have rebuilt mine with varying degrees of success. I have also had the leaks stop after running for a while like I described.
The pumps are easily accessible on a 40. rad removal is not required.
You do need to support the motor from underneath though, as the pumps are the engine mount.
Mart.
Mart.
I have rebuilt mine with varying degrees of success. I have also had the leaks stop after running for a while like I described.
The pumps are easily accessible on a 40. rad removal is not required.
You do need to support the motor from underneath though, as the pumps are the engine mount.
Mart.
Mart.
19Fordy
Well-known member
Do as ford38v8 directed. I used permatex non hardening gasket sealer on the pump gaskets. I think I remember "Kube" saying he used Indian head shellac on the hoses.
Make sure your new hoses don't rub on your sway bar. Use anti seize on the water pump bolts, especially on the one inside the pump. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE WATER PUMP BOLTS. Just make them snug. ( I don't remember how many foot lbs. equal 1 snug.)
Make sure your new hoses don't rub on your sway bar. Use anti seize on the water pump bolts, especially on the one inside the pump. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE WATER PUMP BOLTS. Just make them snug. ( I don't remember how many foot lbs. equal 1 snug.)
ford38v8
Well-known member
And I bet you had no idea what an air conditioner was used for till you moved from Daly City to Carson City!