Leaky Transmission...what would you do...

After all these years my trany is leaking oil.

There are two ways to remove the trany to fix it...remove the engine OR remove the rearend...what would you do?

Thanks.

Pluck
 
Having just replaced my engine 6 months ago and gone through the hassles of hood alignment etc, I would vote for dropping the rear end. My ****** has started to leak also and I'm not about to pull the engine again. I may be wrong but it seems to me that aligning the splines would be easier from below with a ****** jack.
 
Rear end, did it twice in a weekend. An extra set of hands helps to install and a lift of some sort. I used a small motorcycle jack and it made the job much easier.
 
rear end, if you have a lift leave the brake rods and shocks and tire on the rear end 30 minute out and 45 back in. if not put on jack stands remove the tires and roll out on a floor jack,
 
Hopefully this is still on subject but I replaced the old grease fitting at the u-joint coupling and had (transmission?) oil dribble out. Is this comming from the trans. or migrating up from the rear end. No leak though.
Pete
 
Pluck,just where is your ****** leaking? Mine started to leak around the rear of the countershaft,I just bought one of those $15.blocks with the nylon washer to stop it.Not original but it worked.My uncle parked the car in 54,gave it to me in 68,I've driven it off and on since 72,and pretty steadily since 86.Some of the hardened oil probably finally gave way and started to leak.Three years ago I took out the straight motor honey that had been it there since 72.I prefer to take out the rear end to take out the ******.I have a lift so the hardest part to me is taking out the mat,floors,and battery without scratching anything or getting anything greasy inside the car.Pete,if you have gear oil in the U-joint housing,and not dripping a lot I call it a good thing.If it migrates to the rear end too fast it can be a little bit of a problem.That gooey oil is getting into and lubing the joint.An old fellow I worked for drilled into me not to use high temp grease in certain things,although he loved the stuff.He claimed high temp grease would get slung out of the way in a U-joint and never get hot enough to melt back into the important parts.Made sense to me so I still do things his way.
 
If I needto remove the ****** I woulld pull the Rear End. Where is the leak coming from???? If it is coming out from around the rear end of the two shafts (cluster gear shaft and reverse shaft) the dealers offer a part that replaces the metal bar that holds the shafts in place and the new part has a seal on it. Works good. This area is a very common leak area. Snyders part # 7111 S.
 
Keith, Thanks for the advise. I'm about the swap out my very noisy trans. pretty soon. As I end up doing most of the work myself with minimal tools, is it easier to go with removing the rear end rather than engine/trans. as a unit? Rear end spring spredders scare the hell out of me.
Pete
 
Thanks Gary, that make sense. Just take it off at the u-bolts, remove the tires and roll it out of the way right?
 
Pluck, if the leak is coming from the top shift rails, Mitchell makes a repair that you can install with the ****** in the car. Its a bit of a b**ch getting in there, but they say it can be done. Otherwise, if the engine needs nothing, I pull the rear axle, but I leave the spring in the car if its not needing a rebuild. Its not as dangerous with the leaves clamped to the cross member as it is sitting on top of the axle with only the center bolt holding it together.
 
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