Leaky Tire

If you do a good job of patching the tube it will be just as good as new. A good "old" tube can be much better than some of the new tubes. I run my tires until the thread is gone, and yes I sometimes get caught in a rainstorm. Never had an issue with hydroplaning an A. Now my 1970 VW beetle on the other hand, I can PLAN an that hydroplaning even with new tires.
 
eagle said:
..................... Now my 1970 VW beetle on the other hand, I can PLAN an that hydroplaning even with new tires...............
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I don't know how people ever drove those cars.

I went on an ambulance call in 1971 where a VW Bug slid out into the highway, he couldn't stop at a stop sign, and went under a semi truck trailer that was traveling by at 55 MPH. We had a Funeral Home and back then all of the local undertakers owned ambulances. Of course the dude was killed, but what really freaked me out was, he was decapitated and his head was laying in the back seat. True story.

I vision that scene in my mind EVERYtime I see a VW bug or someone mentions them.

They were dangerous cars. :eek:
 
Out of curiosity, how thick is the tread on a brand new Firestone bias ply tire?


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updraught said:
Talcum powder was widely used on tubes to stop them sticking. A bit of info on tubes here:
http://www.beadelltours.com.au/tubes.html
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I put baby powder liberally around inside of tire, install half of tire on rim then carefully insert tube. Then I add some air to get wrinkles out with valve core removed. Deflate tube and gently install the other bead into the rim. If you pinch the tire into the rim it will slide on easily. I then partially inflate tube and bounce the tire on the floor rotating it at the same time, just to seat the tube. Then inflate and deflate a few times.

Remember the old vulcanizing patches, put on the glue and patch then install vulcanizing pan clamp it light it and let it burn. I used to like the smell of the vulcanizing smoke.
 
vern hodgson said:
I put baby powder liberally around inside of tire, install half of tire on rim then carefully insert tube. Then I add some air to get wrinkles out with valve core removed. Deflate tube and gently install the other bead into the rim. If you pinch the tire into the rim it will slide on easily. I then partially inflate tube and bounce the tire on the floor rotating it at the same time, just to seat the tube. Then inflate and deflate a few times.

Remember the old vulcanizing patches, put on the glue and patch then install vulcanizing pan clamp it light it and let it burn. I used to like the smell of the vulcanizing smoke.
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Thanks for the steps. Now, I just need to find a place that actually has tires in stock. I would prefer whitewall radials, but so far I haven’t had any luck.


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O
I am running inner tubes that were purchased from Snyder's forty years ago and they have been used in three sets of tires which I have warn out. No need to change to new tubes when changing tires.
 
RandyinUtah said:
O
I am running inner tubes that were purchased from Snyder's forty years ago and they have been used in three sets of tires which I have warn out. No need to change to new tubes when changing tires.
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My thoughts also, tubes were built better then.
 
RandyinUtah said:
O
I am running inner tubes that were purchased from Snyder's forty years ago and they have been used in three sets of tires which I have warn out. No need to change to new tubes when changing tires.
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That’s good to know. Thanks for sharing.


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