Leaking 97, whats my problem?

37fatfender

37fatfender

BANNED
I just got back from a 100 mile cruise with a bunch of guys. So, I am about to back my car into the garage and it stalls. Cranking and cranking car won't start. I open the hood and gas is leaking from the front carb thootle rod. I am running a Thickstun PM7 with 2 97's. Stock fuel pump and ignition. I am assuming I have a float problem.......any ideas what cause gas to leak this way would be appreciated. I also assume this may be the reason it runs rich.
 

Attachments

  • 1940 Ford 017.jpg
    1940 Ford 017.jpg
    60.1 KB · Views: 33
Most likely float has a pin hole in it.That can be soldered up. A seam leak is much more difficult to fix.Hold float in hot water it will bubble from the leak. I have floats if you need one. ken ct. Also use a steel needle NOT a rubber tipped one.
 
Ok, I took the trouble carb off my intake, got my rebuild kit off the shelf, Napa/Echlin #2-5101. Only to find it had the rubber tipped needle valve seat. My other observations on my first 97 rebuild is that I was unable to remove the Main Metering Jets, is a special tool required? I was a little timid and didn't want to force the things out. Also, a the By-Pass Jet had a "55" stamped in it, I thought somewhere I read that I should use "45's", on a mild engine with dual carbs. Where do I get the tools and parts to do a "Complete" rebuild and what metering jets should I be using? By the way the float was fine and had not leaks.
 
37fatfender said:
Ok, I took the trouble carb off my intake, got my rebuild kit off the shelf, Napa/Echlin #2-5101. Only to find it had the rubber tipped needle valve seat. My other observations on my first 97 rebuild is that I was unable to remove the Main Metering Jets, is a special tool required? I was a little timid and didn't want to force the things out. Also, a the By-Pass Jet had a "55" stamped in it, I thought somewhere I read that I should use "45's", on a mild engine with dual carbs. Where do I get the tools and parts to do a "Complete" rebuild and what metering jets should I be using? By the way the float was fine and had not leaks.
Click to expand...

You MUST get a jet wrench and a good one at that. Take your time, lube up the threads with penetrating oil and don't force them at all. When you get movement, go back and forth a bit to lube and clean the threads as you extract them.

If you're doing a rebuild, you'll also need a tool (or make one) for removing the emulsion tubes.

45 is the standard main jet size for a 97.

Check out www.vintagespeed.com
Some people say Charlie is a grouch and a little slow on shipping, but he's always done right by me.
 
37fatfender said:
Ok, I took the trouble carb off my intake, got my rebuild kit off the shelf, Napa/Echlin #2-5101. Only to find it had the rubber tipped needle valve seat. My other observations on my first 97 rebuild is that I was unable to remove the Main Metering Jets, is a special tool required? I was a little timid and didn't want to force the things out. Also, a the By-Pass Jet had a "55" stamped in it, I thought somewhere I read that I should use "45's", on a mild engine with dual carbs. Where do I get the tools and parts to do a "Complete" rebuild and what metering jets should I be using? By the way the float was fine and had not leaks.
Click to expand...
The best combo for most rascally flatheads is .043 main jets with #69 bypass jets (powervalves). Jets and pv's need to be married to each other. Keep in mind that the orifice in the powervalve gets bigger as the number decreases. A # 55 pv is usually used for alcohol or methanol. It's no wonder that you're running rich...
Stainless knurled "T" handle jet wrenches are available from yours truly.
 
Last edited:
uncle max said:
The best combo for most rascally flatheads is .043 main jets with #69 bypass jets (powervalves). Jets and pv's need to be married to each other. Keep in mind that the orifice in the powervalve gets bigger as the number decreases. A # 55 pv is usually used for alcohol or methanol. It's no wonder that you're running rich...
Stainless knurled "T" handle jet wrenches are available from yours truly.
Click to expand...

Quality-wise, Uncle Max's jet wrenches are worth the coin if you are going to fool with your Strombergs.:cool:
 
He makes some other goodies, too. I have one of his hidden-passage blowerouter tools for the floor passages/tubes...works great even with my Ford B-17052 air compressor. Is there a listing available??
From what I hear, he has the only strong modern-made jet wrench. Stromberg jets can be remarkably resistant to removal and will indeed break bad tools. I don't have one because I had already lucked into vintage Snap-on and Plomb ones.
 
Bruce ive broken Snap-On's, Mac's and many others. Ive had some made by a retired tool+die maker and are of excellent quality and havent broken one yet. ken ct.
 
I had to lower the float in my 97 four times to get the fuel level correct. I took the top off the carb and cranked the engine with the starter while the ignition was off. This allowed me to watch how high the fuel level would get without the danger of running the motor with the carb top off. My 97 doesn't leak now, it just slowly gets grimy on the outside.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top