Leaking 1932 Steering Box

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Have a stock '32 box....was rebuilt many moons ago.
It leaks off the very front end (open) cap area.
I would like to remove it, clean it, reseal it up.
Looks like the rebuilder used some orange RTV years ago and it failed.

Any helpful hints on steps to take on doing this would be welcomed.
I assume I remove the 2 attaching bolts, clean it up, put on a new gasket & sealer?
Are there gaskets available and from who?
What flavor steering box lube is preferred for the box?

Thanks!
 

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Unless you substitute the original plate with the ears for the bail for retaining the cover of the light switch with the '33 and up version with a tube attached that extends upward inside the steering shaft to beyond the level of lubricant in the box, a leak is inevitable. If it is already equipped with the '33 plus type plate and tube, then the problem likely is as you indicate, namely a leak between the top side of the plate and the bottom of the steering box casting.


Lots of different views on the best lubricant to use, but a slim majority herein seem to favor using John Deere Corn Head grease.
 
I do not have the later plate.
Nor do I have the headlight switch parts on the end of mine.

So the fix is to obtain a 1933 & up plate? It bolts on the same?
It has a tube on its inside portion of the plate?
And is there supposed to be a gasket, I assume?
Someone sell those?

Thanks!
 
This is a photo I saved of what they look like.
Check with Michael at Third Gen for the part or Fred at Barnfind.
Both have helped me greatly in the past.

David is right as many people here like the corn head grease. I just bought some Penrite Steering Box Lube to give a try on the rebuilt box I just finished. It is more expensive than corn head grease but I like trying new things.
The gasket is the same.
 

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As you will note from HIGHTOWER611's helpful photo, the plate and tube attach the same way that your existing plate does and yes, it should be used with a gasket.
 
Oh, now that I see the picture, it makes sense. Is it a simple removal of the 2 bolts and then you wiggle out the plate with tube? Will anything else come falling out; ha!???
 
some folks silver solder where the tube is crimped into the end plate for a positive no leaky
 
With respect, the lower worm gear bearing cup and cone both insert into the steering box from above, not from below. Removal of the subject plate will not affect the lower worm gear bearing.
 
DavidG said:
With respect, the lower worm gear bearing cup and cone both insert into the steering box from above, not from below. Removal of the subject plate will not affect the lower worm gear bearing.
Click to expand...

I'm assuming you remove the circular cork disc/plug that "fills" the hole at the bottom of the box when using the later tube?
 
When using the John Deer Corn Head Grease....Do I use 100% of that in the steering box OR a percentage of that AND a percentage of some other grease?
Thanks
 
I hath remove the end cap & tube.
Is the tube supposed to appear like the Leaning Tower of Pisa?
Could this be contributing to my leak?
It slid out of the steering box smoothly.
It had a gasket and that ugly orange RTV sealer on it.
Thanks!
 

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The tube should be perfectly perpendicular to the bottom plate, but since on an original a small amount of the tubing protrudes from the bottom, setting it on a flat surface, as in your photo, it would lean to one side.

It appears in your photo to be soldered where the tube joins the bottom plate. If that joint is secure, the plate is flat, the tube perpendicular to the bottom plate, and a gasket was installed, your leak may be elsewhere.
 
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