Leak around rivets on gas tank

29 model-a

29 model-a

Senior Member
Can someone tell me how to fix a leak in my gas tank? It's leaking around the column support "the rivets". Is there a way to tighten them or what does one do? Thanks Pete
 
Your not going to want to hear this, but they are sealed by solder. Repairing it correctly will require the gas tank being removed from the car. The tank drained, cleaned and purged of any gas fumes or residue and soldering the entire steering column mount. This whole process will with out a doubt ruin your paint. There are some quick fixes out there and I am sure someone will post something else that will work for now. Eventually it will need to be dealt with correctly. Rod
 
Rod, I should of said the tank is out and needs to be painted, I'm in the middle of restoring it. Thanks Pete
 
I danced around with this problem and now have gone with a tank without any sign of ever leaking. Late '31 Frod ditched the column supported by the tank for very good reason. Another congenetal defect like the flywheel and its housing was not fixed until the Model B. One fix that should survive on '30 or early '31 cars is to remove the upper clamp on the tank completely and patch it in a safe manner. A late '31 column support replaces the bracket. Not at all a quick fix but solid. Good Luck: Fred A
 
Not all tanks leak under the steering bracket.

My 29 had a 3/4 inch crack a 1/2 inch BELOW the bottom edge of the steering bracket.

1. We soldered a brass "patch" to seal the hole in addition to soldering the bracket.

2. Removed the bottom half of the bracket, leaving the upper half, incase someone wanted to return to stock setup.

3. And added the 31 bracket that is fastened to the dash rail.

Since tank is out it might be best to have it magnafluxed around the steering bracket in addition to soldering the bracket.
 
29 model-a said:
So I could remove this bracket and put in a 31 under dash bracket?
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Yes.

All the things that we did can be reversed if a restorer wants to return to stock.

Some folks cut a hole and remove the bracket and weld a patch. Then the tank is very difficult to return to stock condition. Then you have bare steel inside the tank that will rust because all the Terne coating has been burned off the inside of the tank.

The whole problem is caused by folks using the steering wheel to pull themselves into the car.

The 31 bracket removes the strain on the tank and makes it very unlikely that it will ever leak again.
 
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Just open up the tank, remove the rivets and weld-up the holes along with the fatigue cracks that you will find radiating from the rivet holes. Re-drill the holes and re-rivet the bracket on. THEN add the solder to sweat the bracket back on.
 
Hi 29,
Since your tank is out and you are restoring it, you have the opportunity to fix it correctly. I have a 29 roadster, and have done this repair myself. First, take it to a radiator repair shop that is willing to play with your tank. Have them completely clean out the interior of the tank, then pressure test it with their equipment.
If the radiator shop is a good one, they will be able to SILVER SOLDER the leak in the tank, whether it is a crack or a leak around the rivets as you suggest. In any case, the edge of the 29 bracket should also be silver soldered around its perimeter, whether it is cracked or not.
DO NOT allow anyone to weld on this tank! The tank is a semi-hard sheet metal which will spider-crack if it is welded on.
If you can find it, it would be a good idea to have the interior coated with an alcohol-and-gasoline fuel proof coating if you can find it. In all probability, if you find the right coating for the tank, it will have to be baked on. Beware that there are some gas tank coatings which will "melt" over time, causing the fuel lines to clog with a gummy or flaky substance as the coating melts inside your fuel tank. Hope this helps...Happy Motoring!
 
the tank has to be fixed the right way now, there is no safe way to mickey mouse a repair on the tank, it has to be resoldered , opening up the tank is the absolutley the best way to repair the tank, but most restores don't have the experience or talent to do it that way, clean the metal around the leak to bear metal, clean tank to remove any fuel or vapors have a radiator shop clean it, some radiator shops will still solder it, if not it can be done at home if all precautions are taken and followed, solder all of the bracket around seams and rivets, when done install the late steering column bracket the one that attaches to the bottom of the dash rail, if you do it your self use silver solder, its stronger, how ever you do it just remember that's gas leaking on your foot
 
Don't forget to look at the choke rod bracket while you're there,not as likely to leak but finding one that does after paint sucks
 
However you fix tank,I would reccomend the 31 support. As mentioned it is completely reversible. You keep old mount and do not put bottom clamp on or leave out rubber spacer so it bears no weight.

This is direction to fit 31 mount to 29.



Posted by Tom Endy from cpe-66-75-83-114.socal.res.rr.com (66.75.83.114) on Friday, October 26, 2007 at 12:31PM :
In Reply to: steering column support posted by Allan in N.S. from blk-222-214-180.eastlink.ca (24.222.214.180) on Thursday, October 25, 2007 at 11:43PM :
Allan:
You can get what you need from Bratton's. You need to order the three parts that make up the 31 steering column clamp set-up. Order support 4860, anti rattle 4880, clamp 4840. The 4860 is a very rough casting and you will have to spend some time filing and block sanding to make it smooth.It is otherwise a good quality part.
You then have to make an adapter bracket to fit it to the 28-29 dash rail. You will need a piece of metal stock 3/8" thick by 3/4" wide about 7" long. You will also need four 1/4" flat head screws one inch long.
Locate and drill counter sunk holes in the adaptor bracket to match up with two holes in the 4860 and two holes in the dash rail.Two counter sinks will be in opposite direction to the other two.
The new set up will space the steering column down to where there is a 1/8" space around the old clamp. This will take the strain off of it. However, you will still have to deal with whatever fuel leak is there.
Tom Endy



John

 
Bob from Northport said:
Send it to Brent Terry's garage and let them repair/weld it correctly. They can paint it as well if you need it done.
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this is sound advice, about the best here, but does anyone know if Brent is actually accommodating towards this kind of work, does one need an appointment, ballpark figure, etc. I understand that Brent would be too ethical to solicit or even comment upon such repairs within an answer, but has anyone actually followed through on this?

I personally can't imagine finding a typical radiator repair shop where I live even attempting to cut the tank open, but I have been surprised before. I can see them being willing to solder the outside of the tank.
 
Probably going to use Brents method to fix my worst tank. It is the one from the donor fordor and has the correct firewall date to match my engine and frame numbers. It will be challanging as so far I found 22 pin holes.Very doable, but time consuming. Sure could not afford to send it to someone. If it don't turn out I can always put the firewall section on one of my other tanks. Rod
 
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