Leaf Spring Poly-Slide

BillCNC

BillCNC

Well-known member
Hey All,

Working on my leaf springs and was wondering if I made the wrong choice.

I bought a new front spring and am going to refurbish my rear spring. I bought some Spring liner-Poly Slide Part# A-5310-P1 from CW Moss and it's used between the individual leafs. Sounds nice and all, but now the New and Old spring clamps are to small. The Poly-Slide stuff is making the springs to thick.

Anyone figured out how to use the stuff. and if so, ... How?

Regards
Bill
 
I fitted it with the same problems as you. Also had to trim the side edges at the clamps and where it fits within the chassis.
As mine was a speedster, I removed a few leaves and was able to juggle things so that the spring clamps fitted but still had to elongate the bolt holes in the spring clamps.
Finally, I'm not sure that they actually promote easy sliding between the spring leaves, as one might imagine and I've since greased mine as well.
I had hoped that they might reduce the rusting between leaves, but when dismantling to grease things, rust was starting to develop (after two years)
All told, I'm not convinced that they're worth the effort?
Keith
 
I think a thin coat of a good graphite grease between leafs before bolting them together is a better lubricant.

Then wipe off the excess after they are bolted up and again after they are in the car and you have worked the spring.
 
My trick is to have the leaves sand blasted and when I prime them, I mix a handfull of graphite in the paint. Works well for years. Graphite grease is also a good option.
 
My choice is Slip Plate. Used it several times and like the way it all goes back together. You can find it online and at NAPA. I prefer to roll it on with a 3 inch roller.
 

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I did it on my '32 front spring, but I removed a leaf or two to soften the ride. They were a pain to work with and keep in place. I wouldn't do it again. A good grease like Jim/TX/GA suggested is a lot easier.
 
Graphite yes, Poly-slide NO! In addition to making the spring pack too thick, there have been reports over the years of it cold flowing and not staying in place.
 
The accessory spring covers, sold by the major Model "A" parts suppliers, are the best way to keep lubrication between spring leaves over a long period of time.

The covers have felt pads that absorb a lot of oil which weeps into the springs. I saturate the felts with SAE 140 differential gear oil.

Moreover the spring covers keep road dirt out of and beautify the springs. The covers can be installed without taking anything apart.

My experience is that spring covers make a substantial improvement in smoothing the ride of the Model "A" Ford.
s-l300.jpg
 
I agree with Bob, and when I installed the spring covers for a couple customers years ago I found that Bert's and Little Dearborn sold the better quality ones.
 
Thanks guys, ...

I'm going to ditch the Poly-Slide and I ordered some Slip-Plate #1 Monday night from napa and it was ready to pick up the next morning.

I removed the paint that was on the new leafs and repainted them with VHT Epoxy Paint SP650 Gloss Black. I'll let that set a few days then I'll apply the Slip-Plate and a few days later, assemble the springs back together and then on to the rear spring.

Anyone had any bad experience with the VHT Epoxy Paint SP650?

Regards
Bill
 
BillCNC said:
Thanks guys, ...

I'm going to ditch the Poly-Slide and I ordered some Slip-Plate #1 Monday night from napa and it was ready to pick up the next morning.

I removed the paint that was on the new leafs and repainted them with VHT Epoxy Paint SP650 Gloss Black. I'll let that set a few days then I'll apply the Slip-Plate and a few days later, assemble the springs back together and then on to the rear spring.

Anyone had any bad experience with the VHT Epoxy Paint SP650?

Regards
Bill
Click to expand...

It was my understanding you don't want to paint the springs until after the graphite was applied, dried and the spring pack assembled.
 
Hi jwilliams81,

The can say's in one of it's benefits that it bonds quickly to bare metal, wood and most plastic surfaces, but not in the instructions. In the instructions #1 says to "Thoroughly clean surface of all dirt, oil, grease, rust and corrosion as you would for any painting job." Wouldn't it include to say remove all old paint prior to application?

Removing the paint I just applied is no big deal as it's still gassing off. Perhaps I should call the MFG and ask them.

Thank you for bringing this to my attention, I don't want to go backwards.

Regards
Bill
 
OK, just got off the phone with the MFG and they said it depends on if the parts are to be painted or not and the intended use of the parts. I explained that it was for leaf springs on my 31 A and he then said to paint first. I asked him if I was to paint after the Slip-Plate, ... how will paint stick to slip-Plate if its' so slippery?

He basically said, "Yeah, good luck painting over graphite".

Looks like I'm still on plan A.

Regards
Bill
 
When I did springs w/slip-plate, I cleaned all the leaves to bare metal, gave them 2 coats of slip-plate, re-assembled and never looked back.
 
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