Leaf spring alignment bolt under axle pad

WABOOM

WABOOM

Senior Member
51 Mercury. I took my rear differential carrier out to have it rebuilt, and now I am removing the axle housing so I can bring it to them and have them assemble for backlash. The leaf Spring pad on the axle housing is not separating from the leaves, but does not appear to be bolted directly to the leaf pack... Is this alignment bolt that goes through the leaves welded to the Spring pad on the housing?
The reason I ask is because the nut on bottom side of the leaf pack is rounded and I'm trying to determine if that even needs to come off. Thank you
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It holds the leaf pack together, the upper locating head (round pin) just fits into the locating hole in the axle pad. Does not have to be removed.
You have to lift the axle housing off of it to dis-engage.
Have disconnected the rear spring hangers to drop springs to give easier access for axle removal.
 
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The spring pad doesn't appear to have a hole in it to allow this. And jacking the axle tube up is pulling the leaves up with it. I'm puzzled.
 
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51 MERC-CT is correct. If you insert your finger inside the spring pad can you feel anything like an alignment pin? Perhaps this will help. Spray some WD-40 on the assembly and gently place a pry bar between the spring pad and the top side of the spring and hit the bar with a hammer to separate the spring from the pad. It has to come off. If you have another jack place it under the axle tube near the spring and apply upward pressure. At same time try the pry bar idea. Also added photos of spring set up with new rear spring.
 

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Ok the spring pad was filled with mud. Now I see a hole. I just wanted to make sure that that bolt was separate from the Spring pad itself so now I can just basically forced the pad off of the spring pack.
 
It's amazing that something that went together so easily is so difficult to take apart 68 years later...NOT.
 
Clean any mating surfaces real well with a wire wheel will get everything fitting back together good. You can strike the top of the u-bolts with a heavy hammer as your tightening to get the u-bolts tight. You’ll want to check all the fasteners after a few short rides when everything “settles in”...... Mark
 
Since the nut on the spring bolt is rounded off, cut the head off and drive it out of the spring. Clamp the spring with some good C clamps first.. Might want to do the other side also at the same time. I'll bet they are both pretty rusty where they go through the spring or maybe even broken. You can get new spring bolts at Napa Auto Parts.
 
It’s a center bolt..... pretty sure it’s supposed to look that way..... at least all the ones I’ve seen have been..... Mark
 
I would have to ask why mess with it (the through bolt). It just holds the spring together and locates the axle pad during assembly, once the u-bolts are installed and tightened it doesn't serve much function.
 
Got it all degreased, wire wheeled, and painted. I used VHT self etching engine primer and enamel. Then heated it with a heat gun for 30 minutes.
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Looks great!!.....how many times have you asked yourself “ why didn’t I DRIVE into the garage?”.....this damn rear ended is HEAVY!!!.....Mark
 
I find the part about using a heat gun to cure the paint to be interesting. I have an old kitchen oven converted for use to cure parts I have powder-coated. I have also used it to cure painted small parts. It seems to help with the hardness and durability of the finish.
 
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