LEAD after EVAPORUST
- Thread starter Bruce/CT
- Start date
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Soldering processes like good clean base metal to get the best adheasion. Near all solders require some sort of flux to get them to stick anyway. Grit blasting or various acid treatments will work and long as there is no oxides on the surface. I haven't used Evaporust but if it is anything like a phosphate conversion process, there will still be deposits on the surface. Instead of iron oxide it will be converted to iron phosphate but I've never tried to get solder to stick to that. It wouldn't take to long to find out though. The solder will either stick or it won't that's for sure.
when i do lead work (which is not very often any more),i use solder as the tinning base, i use the paste flux, i heat the metal just enough so i can put the flux on and then smear it around with a clean rag, same with the solder ,heat just enough to get the solder to stick then rub it around with a clean rag till you have the metal tinned past the work area
silvertop
Member
I have never used evaporust, but I have used a lot of lead in the past. I can tell you that this lead thing is way over rated today. Lead not properly applied will fail. Acids left on the panel will cause rust to form under the finish. If your panel is free of holes and cracks, a good quality body filler will last just as long, provided it is not abused. Sand that panel with 80 on a DA very well to remove the evaporust residue, apply two coats of epoxy primer, let it set for at least 12 hours at above 70*. This 70* is very important, as epoxy will not cure below this temperature. Now you can apply your filler directly over the epoxy within 7 days without sanding it, but if after that you will need to sand it with 150 before applying filler. When finished with your filler work, reprime with another two coats of epoxy, after 12 hours, and before 7 days you can apply urethane primer over the epoxy without sanding. (Epoxy is a super sealant)
1930 model a
Junior Member
im with silver top pound it low and filler her with dough
the new plastic fillers are a wonderful thing in thier place, but they do not do well on the edge of things, hoods, door or door jambs, or on anything that is sharp edged, if hit in those places the tend to chip off leaving an unsightly hole, lead used in those places will not chip if hit, it may dent or leave a pit that is east to fix but it wont chip, well maybe the paint, there is a place for every thing, lead causes no more problems than plastic fillers if propery cleaned, lead gets a lot of bad press because most builders dont know how to use it, jmo
silvertop
Member
ford1,
I can not disagree with one thing that you have said. The reason that I try to discourage people from using lead is this stuff will kill you. The man that tought me the leading techniques was one of the best in the business, and he did a lot of it. About 15 years ago he died of lead poisening. I am suprised that the regulators have not come down on this by now.
I can not disagree with one thing that you have said. The reason that I try to discourage people from using lead is this stuff will kill you. The man that tought me the leading techniques was one of the best in the business, and he did a lot of it. About 15 years ago he died of lead poisening. I am suprised that the regulators have not come down on this by now.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
I've know guys that used 60/40 tin/lead solder for many years and have never had ill effects because they took simple precautions. Most folks that have gotten lead in there bodies were bathing in tetra ethyl lead mix gasoline from the old days or avgas with TEL using it as a solvent to clean parts and that usually leads to neurological disorders. Most deaths related to lead poisoning were little kids that were eating paint because it tasted sweet to them. It's been years since lead was outlawed for use as piping in water delivery systems. The amount of lead used in copper plumbing is still considered safe for water delivery even today but most solder is lead free now. Any vapors that are created in welding and soldering processes can be harmful if you breath too much of them but I don't know if the poisoning was lead or some other carcenogening product. Heavy metals poisoning is usually more related to cyanide or mercury than lead. Mercury used to be used in the soldering processes to aid in tinning metal but hasn't been for years now.
If you solder a lot with 60/40 body solder or solder up radiators with flux core solder, do it in a well ventalated area and avoid breathing the fumes. Also use a respirator when griding or sanding leaded panels to avoid the dust. If you keel over dead before your time, it will more likely be something else that kills you as long as you use good common sense.
Kerby
If you solder a lot with 60/40 body solder or solder up radiators with flux core solder, do it in a well ventalated area and avoid breathing the fumes. Also use a respirator when griding or sanding leaded panels to avoid the dust. If you keel over dead before your time, it will more likely be something else that kills you as long as you use good common sense.
Kerby
Last edited:
