lbs. before distributer threads fail

30ccpickup

30ccpickup

Well-known member
The distributer is stuck in the head, when do you just go for it?
  • I have sprayed PB Blaster for 2 weeks.
  • I have injected PB Blaster in the distributer lock nut hole with 100 psi. using my air compressor for 2 weeks.
  • I am currently using a distributer puller and a set of screw drivers to pry with.
Before I say the hell with it and just go for it does anyone have an educated guess on how much poundage the threads on the distributer shaft can handle before striping out? I am currently at 20 lbs. I am hoping to find out from someone before I answer my own question.
 

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If it were mine I'd remove the head and carefully drive the dist. out from the bottom.

Those dist. castings can break off fairly easily right at the base where the dist. meets the head. So be careful prying around on it or striking it with a hammer or anything.
 
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First question, did you remove the lock screw from the head? From the picture, it would help to put some nuts on the studs over the puller, the way it is the puller will lift as the distributer moves. If you are removing the head, flip it over once off anr press out the distributer..
 
dis-regard the nut statement, just looked at my puller, it wouldn't make a difference except for spreading, which I see is what your c clamp is for....:o
 
Have you tried heat. I have success with a small torch with MAP gas. Heat the head fairly hot. You might try the Acetone ATF combo with the heat also. Also try a little side ways persuasion with a small hammer to try and rotate the housing. A little each way may do the trick? Let us know how it turns out.
Tom
 
"----how much poundage the threads on the distributer shaft can handle before striping out? I am currently at 20 lbs. I am hoping to find out from someone before I answer my own question.----"
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keep recording up to the break, so the rest of us don't exceed it
 
Have you removed the valve cover and used PB Blaster on the shaft that connects to the distributor? Might be stuck down there.
 
TK in LA said:
Have you tried heat. I have success with a small torch with MAP gas. Heat the head fairly hot. You might try the Acetone ATF combo with the heat also. Also try a little side ways persuasion with a small hammer to try and rotate the housing. A little each way may do the trick? Let us know how it turns out.
Tom
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If you rotate very much the guide pin on the distributor that goes in the head will break off! Unless the distributor has moved up enough for the pin to clear the head.

Another thought, If the dist has moved up even a small amount, sometimes it helps to move it back down (maybe tap the center shaft with a small BRASS hammer to move it back down) and then try to move it up. Keep repeating this up/down motion and add PBB.

This works for removing rusted studs also ie repeat the Cw / CCW motion.

Remember like has been stated do not hammer or pry on the housing too much.
 
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I think I will go back out and take it up to 30 lbs and if it does not snap I will rethink things, if it does snap I will let you all know at what poundage the threads failed or body snaped.

Many club members advise against taking off the head, what all is involved. Will it need to be machined or can I use a copper/asbestos gasket to take out the imperfections.

In addition if I remove the valve cover can it be reinstalled without purchasing new gaskets. I hate paying shipping charges.
 
I can shear the pin on the collar and pull the shaft up through the distributer before the threads pull out using a distributer puller.Now,those have been old shafts,repros from the 40's,50's,60's,etc may be stronger or weaker.Also remember,if you break the housing,(VERY easy to do)you're gonna be taking that head off any way.
 
The pin your talking about shears at 22 lbs. Looks like I will be taking off the head. My Model A knowledge is about to increase, which is good, but it is a shame it had to start today. We were suppose to take it to a show tomorrow.

Thanks for the help.
 
Spend 30 minutes and remove the head. Rather then waiting two weeks for the distributor to somehow loosen up. When you reinstall the distributor, coat it and the shaft sticking out of it with Anti Seaze, and 20 years from now when someone else wants to remove it , they can take it out in 10 minutes. Removeing the head is easy.....But it will cost you $25 for a head gasket....
 
take off the head, remove the dist. and just put it back together with a new head gasket. You can check the head for warpage with a straight edge. If you see no evidence of a blown head gasket then just put it back together with a new gasket.
 
Go to Orchard supply in the painting department and by one of there all purpose scraping bars, they are about 8 inches but are really thin so you can get it between the block and head without doing any damage. They are about $6 and if get two it will be a lot easier to get the head off. If your dist is stuck like that then your head could be stuck too.
 
vinepro said:
Go to Orchard supply in the painting department and by one of there all purpose scraping bars, they are about 8 inches but are really thin so you can get it between the block and head without doing any damage. They are about $6 and if get two it will be a lot easier to get the head off. If your dist is stuck like that then your head could be stuck too.
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I don't do any prying on heads any more. Better to put a length of rope down a spark plug hole and turn the engine over. The head will pop right up without any damage.
 
700rpm said:
I don't do any prying on heads any more. Better to put a length of rope down a spark plug hole and turn the engine over. The head will pop right up without any damage.
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I tried that last time and it worked GREAT!
 
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