Later flattie into a 36?

W

willowbilly3

Well-known member
I scored a field find 36 Deluxe coupe yesterday. Engine is missing but it has a transmission. I have acess 40 truck engine or a 42 truck engine, what would I need to bolt one up?
 
Most any '37 to '48 Flathead engine will bolt right in that '36. You might have to tweak a few things like radiator hoses, intake manifold, generator and fan, exhaust manifolds, throttle to carb linkage, and maybe a few other minor things, but nothing insurmountable I can assure you.
 
I am the wrong person to answer this but I think the later engines used a crank mounted fan and you would be better off using the generator mounted one. Bottom line is that it is not a big job to put the later engine into the '36.

Charlie Stephens
 
Cool. Thanks guys. I'm not sure what direction the coupe will take yet. First thing is getting my title guy sicced onto that and it usually takes a couple months. I don't dump my time and money into cars without a clean title in my name.
I'm pretty excited to find this car. There just aren't prewar Ford V8s around the farms anymore. It's pretty complete and a solid body. Had the drip rails and door handles shaved, has juice brakes. Abvout the worst of it is the mucked up tail, got some tin work to do there.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN1570.jpg
    DSCN1570.jpg
    97.1 KB · Views: 91
The 35-36 Fords did not have drip rails. The roof line has a gentle concave roll down to the upper lip of the door jamb header.
It is easier to use '35-36 exhaust manifolds on a 37-48 engine installed into a '36. they clear the steering gears very nicely. Headers are not a good idea.
If you want the car to drive nicely convert the car to '37-40 steering gears.
If you PM me I'll be glad to answer any questions about the how to's of a '36 Ford.
 

Attachments

  • 36 Frd eng.2.jpg
    36 Frd eng.2.jpg
    72.5 KB · Views: 36
  • 36 Frd eng.1.jpg
    36 Frd eng.1.jpg
    69.1 KB · Views: 34
blucar said:
The 35-36 Fords did not have drip rails. The roof line has a gentle concave roll down to the upper lip of the door jamb header.
It is easier to use '35-36 exhaust manifolds on a 37-48 engine installed into a '36. they clear the steering gears very nicely. Headers are not a good idea.
If you want the car to drive nicely convert the car to '37-40 steering gears.
If you PM me I'll be glad to answer any questions about the how to's of a '36 Ford.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I will be learning a lot on this car and will probably need help. And it will need a steering gear I suppose. Typical old field car, steering probably locked (key missing) and froze up tight. I've parted quite a few 30s and 40s Fords but not attempted to make one go yet.
I didn't know on the drip rails but had my 80 year old Ford guy on the phone and he said it should have them, but he also questioned me on how I knew it wasn't a 35 or a 37. That much I can tell,lol.
Also, what about using a 40s fat fender car steering? Those are pretty easy to find.
 
If you are wanting to read up on flatheads, here is some suggested reading from Barn members. Also a lot of information on VanPelts site. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/
 

Attachments

  • Hollerancover1.jpg
    Hollerancover1.jpg
    62.4 KB · Views: 9
  • Book%20Cover1.jpg
    Book%20Cover1.jpg
    63.5 KB · Views: 9
Will the larger truck pressure plate interfere with the 36 bell housing on the transmission? I ran into this once.
 
Not sure what you mean by "access to '40 or '42 engine"? How much$ If inexpensive good. If $3k to $6k & your not going for stock yr. with the engine anyway I'd look for a '49 or newer. Will still be an easy in on your '36 and you can do a lot more with an 8BA. JMO. Regardless nice find, good luck & most important have fun with it.:D:cool:
 
Ken/Alabama said:
Will the larger truck pressure plate interfere with the 36 bell housing on the transmission? I ran into this once.
Click to expand...

Beginning with '35, on trans case #48-xxxx, the bell was increased in depth and should have no problem using up to an 11" clutch. A '34 trans on the other hand, w/#18-xxxx case, would have a clearance problem with an 11" clutch . I've worked on 36 passenger cars that had the truck flywheel and 11" C&PP, but running that size clutch is not the best idea for a street driven vehicle. A 9-1/2 or 10" clutch is plenty good enough IMO.
 
Last edited:
Congrats on your find, I wanted a '36 like my Dad had, but couldn't find one in my price range, but I did buy a nice '41 coupe.
 
Not sure what your goals are, but if you are interested in any increase in performance you will want to replace an 11 inch clutch/pressure plate setup. They are not that much fun to drive and have a negative impact on acceleration.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top