As the pictures will show this build is a little bit different from our normal build based on customer wishes. He had used the measurements from the
www.fordv8.org site and already made the provision for the use of the factory collar hold down.
This works really well but i think its overkill for a couple reasons. One the distributor doesnt need much to hold it as it doesnt drive a oil pump etc and has very little load on it. 2-The relocation of the lower bushing is a added step that takes some machine work to change and replace this bushing upward.
Still i give the conversion a A+ as its very functional and does look good when finished .....
New drive gears are available thru Speedway motors and seem to be a very good product.....
The third picture shows the cam assembly this one having a 724 stamped on the lower side , thsi means its a 24 degree advance unit with a bushing. The brass bushing is also shown as we replace the old rubber unit with one i have made . This makes a good conversion for the flathead with 24 distributor degrees and 4 on the pin = 28 degrees = perfect...
I make my own vacuum eliminator by brazing up the old unit and cutting it off. ( Or using the vacuum if needed)
The upper shaft is packed in a fairly thin bearing grease and the distributor housing upper bushing grease well is also cleaned and packed with grease. Advance weights are cleaned and lubed for installation and a silver and a black spring is installed ( usually perfect for full in at 2500-3000 rpm.
I have learned the best way to prevent comebacks and phone calls is to use the best parts available and i use the CS786 Napa Echlin contacts and a RR175 condensor with a new delco distributor cap and rotor.
The primary lead from contacts to igniton coil is a new primary lead and is required for proper resistance of the primary. Its the last volt drop in the circuit and keeps the points happy for many miles...
Checked the unit in the machine and its right on !!! 24 degrees = 12 distributor at 2500 rpm . Dwell is set at 30 degrees ( .016 with a feeler if needed).
I usually run them for a few minutes and then recheck dwell etc.
Drive gear installation is next and i use a old GM shim for spacing (.030) with some locktite red then dril for 1/8 roll pin.
I know some use a tighter clearance but the chevrolet factory is usually .03 and i like it that way. Works for me.
The extenion below the gear can be long or short and i cut ours short to fit both timing covers , with and without support. ( Ford and Merc)
Gear set in cover is pretty much centered and thats another customer request from time to time as well. The factory is a little low and ours is pretty centered on the cam gear. ( I give Richard in Fla credit for this feature)
The last couple pics are one of our units held down with the aluminum plate , the collar distributor i did for this customer and a cover with a couple set screws in the cover.
Actually i think the set screws in the cover is the easiest most straigntforward method to do the job. Just stuff a rag in the cover , drive two holes and tap for 8/32 set screws or allens and clean out the shavings with a air hose or vac and then remove the rag.??
This is a lot to think about in a single post , hope this helps....
great illistration, but i have a dumb question.
