Kwik-way LBM
- Thread starter CA Victoria
- Start date
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/kwikwayparts.htm
24-32 are the parts to make up the gauge, different plungers for different size ranges.
On Vinces site there are both instructions and parts list
24-32 are the parts to make up the gauge, different plungers for different size ranges.
On Vinces site there are both instructions and parts list
Mark in MT
Senior Member
According to the instructions, the smallest diameter that the gauge will go is 1 7/8. I was going to make one for my set up out of a telescoping bore gauge but ran into clearance issues as there is only 3/16 per side between the bar and a std model a bearing. You may be able to come up with a creative solution to the problem. I usually pull the bar out and measure with a cylinder dial bore gage or my inside mikes. A little slower, but it works for me.
CA Victoria
Well-known member
Thanks, these probably have been lost with most sets..... I have inside micrometers and recently stumbled on a three contact inside micrometer: Intrimic by Brown and Sharpe....maybe that is the way to go unless I can find someone to make the small bore gauge.
d.j. moordigian
Well-known member
Tim,...the B&S 3 leg (and the copies) are a pain to set, you need a
"ring gauge". Mitutoyo makes small dial bore gauges (also copies)
that are quite small. You can use your outside mic to set them, THEN
you are using the mic for both inside and outside.....less "progressive
error"! If you want photos...speak up.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
That is why I like the Starrett mic that is the 2nd one down in the first picture below.
Boy, ain't that the truth!! I too bought one and now it and the KW gauge just sit. Below is what I use, ...and I threw-in the K-W gauge just for posterity.
( The last two are just additional pix to help someone identify the K-W)Attachments
CA Victoria
Well-known member
Good info, thank you all.
d.j. moordigian
Well-known member
That is why I like the Starrett mic that is the 2nd one down in the first picture below.
Boy, ain't that the truth!! I too bought one and now it and the KW gauge just sit. Below is what I use, ...and I threw-in the K-W gauge just for posterity.
I've used this Sunnen for about 40 years......changed out the indicator
from a Sunnen to a Starrett "10th indicator" and made the adapter
about 15 years ago,...I like stuff close...
Attachments
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Hey Dudley, those are super nice gauges indeed. 1/10th is on it's way to being close but a man with your reputation really needs to be working towards tighter tolerances!!
Personally I am using a gauge block system to check mine. I think it gets me close, ...but definitely not as close as yours does!
.
Personally I am using a gauge block system to check mine. I think it gets me close, ...but definitely not as close as yours does!
.
Attachments
Kohnke Rebabbitting
Well-known member
I have used them all.
The best is an inside Mic., or normaly called a post Mic., one in a picture above.
They will get you right to a 1/10 of a thousandths every time.
Set the post Mic., then use an outside Mic. to get your measurement.
Never read your inside Mic's gauge for a reading, only the out side Mic.
Inside Mic's with Jaws on do not work.
About 90% of our work is for other engine builders, and they have all found that a Sunnen bore gauge will not get you a Zero reading either.
I use a 3 Jaw inside mic on Model T cam bearings, standard is .750, and while they are accurate, they can and will be about 1/4 of a thousandths off, because the Jaws can, and do, seat in the babbitt that far, so that has to be in your total measurement, and bigger Mic's may be more.
Inside snap gauges, I have never found a use for. Bad readings all the time.
The Key word here is babbitt. Babbitt is not like using inside Mic's in steel, all together different.
If you use to much pressure, the babbitt will indent, giving a larger reading then the hole is.
If not enough pressure, you will be short of true hole size.
To check your work, use a post mic., get a reading, and then use all the other Mic's and see if they are consistent with each other, and the post Mic., every time.
The best is an inside Mic., or normaly called a post Mic., one in a picture above.
They will get you right to a 1/10 of a thousandths every time.
Set the post Mic., then use an outside Mic. to get your measurement.
Never read your inside Mic's gauge for a reading, only the out side Mic.
Inside Mic's with Jaws on do not work.
About 90% of our work is for other engine builders, and they have all found that a Sunnen bore gauge will not get you a Zero reading either.
I use a 3 Jaw inside mic on Model T cam bearings, standard is .750, and while they are accurate, they can and will be about 1/4 of a thousandths off, because the Jaws can, and do, seat in the babbitt that far, so that has to be in your total measurement, and bigger Mic's may be more.
Inside snap gauges, I have never found a use for. Bad readings all the time.
The Key word here is babbitt. Babbitt is not like using inside Mic's in steel, all together different.
If you use to much pressure, the babbitt will indent, giving a larger reading then the hole is.
If not enough pressure, you will be short of true hole size.
To check your work, use a post mic., get a reading, and then use all the other Mic's and see if they are consistent with each other, and the post Mic., every time.
d.j. moordigian
Well-known member
Hey Dudley, those are super nice gauges indeed. 1/10th is on it's way to being close but a man with your reputation really needs to be working towards tighter tolerances!!
Personally I am using a gauge block system to check mine. I think it gets me close, ...but definitely not as close as yours does!
.
I get it (I think),.....you put the dial bore in there to zero out?
John Stone
Well-known member
Sorry it took so long to get back to this thread. Had a kitchen project to work on.
I converted one of the KW snap gauges to work on A main bearings but it just didn't give the results I wanted so I started looking for other things. I pull the bar back enough to measure the bearings. The picture shows some of the things I have used along with a setting ring for checking. I like the right angle bore gauge but generally use the bore gauge and the inside mic to see if I get the same answer.
I converted one of the KW snap gauges to work on A main bearings but it just didn't give the results I wanted so I started looking for other things. I pull the bar back enough to measure the bearings. The picture shows some of the things I have used along with a setting ring for checking. I like the right angle bore gauge but generally use the bore gauge and the inside mic to see if I get the same answer.
Attachments
Tim:
What Herman said, a post mic or a B & S Intrimik can't be beat. We use both in my shop. A note to the other poster the Intrimiks are direct reading and don't have to be "set" before use like a dial bore gauge. The setting "master ring" is only to check for deviation after long periods of usage to make sure it reads what the actual bore size equals.
Can't go wrong either way but my 6 or 7 Intrimiks put me in the poor house but no regrets!
Good Luck!~
What Herman said, a post mic or a B & S Intrimik can't be beat. We use both in my shop. A note to the other poster the Intrimiks are direct reading and don't have to be "set" before use like a dial bore gauge. The setting "master ring" is only to check for deviation after long periods of usage to make sure it reads what the actual bore size equals.
Can't go wrong either way but my 6 or 7 Intrimiks put me in the poor house but no regrets!
Good Luck!~