kwik poly

I have never used it on Styrofoam, --and to avoid bashing the product, let me just say that it is a TEMPORARY repair for deteriorated wood, ...which is its stated intent. From my experiences, temporary means a year or two on a wood infrastructured car that is being driven.

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Boat shops have used it for years with excellent results. If it is applied properly it is hardly a temp fix. I have used it on several projects and am very satisfied. Never used it on styrofoam. Try it on a small piece. Only problem is you don't have much time to work with it, so don't mix to much at a time.
 
I have used it to stabilize loose wood in fordor bodies, and used it in repairing wood in a 54 Bristol. I also used it to make a tacking strip for a roadster pickup top frame that had the original cardboard material gone bad. I mixed sawdust (must be very dry) with one of the components, then combined the components. It hardens too fast to add the sawdust after mixing. I packed it into the crevice of the metal top bow, and when it hardened, sanded it down level, and the tacks stayed well.
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
I have never used it on Styrofoam, --and to avoid bashing the product, let me just say that it is a TEMPORARY repair for deteriorated wood, ...which is its stated intent. From my experiences, temporary means a year or two on a wood infrastructured car that is being driven.

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Is it temporary because the product fails or is it that the product doesn't "wick" into the good wood and the old rotted wood continues to rot creating the "temporary" fix?

How about http://www.smithandcompany.org/ and their product? Seems to take longer to set, so the wicking action is better?!
 
I too have used it in my fordor body and roadster top irons with good results. Doesn't work too well on steel as a substitute for body filler however as it is brittle and has a different expansion rate than steel.
 
Naturally you all can disagree but my experiences have been that you cannot get it to "wick in" over a ½ inch (+/-), and often times deteriorated wood is below that surface and still growing. Originally the Model A's wooden infrastructure was designed to flex and grow/shrink with the metal skin that was attached to it. Vibration from road bumps cause wood twist and when the wood is brittle, this creates issues for it staying structurally sound and continue to offer the properties in which it was originally designed to do. Also, wood uses the mositure in wood and the compression of the fibers to hold screws, nails, & brads tight. When the wood has dried out or become brittle after using K/P, it no longer has the properties to hold these fasteners tightly.

I will finish stating my experiences by saying that I restored several Model A's (one one 'T') back during the late 90's and early 2000's using the product as a way to save a customer money during the restoration. Now with their doors sagging, sheetmetal moving causing paint issues, rain gutter nails and upholstery brads coming loose, these folks all are unhappy with the shortcut decision we made. Again, as a user of it on multiple restoration projects, I can feel really comfortable when I say it is a temporary fix. If someone feels it can cure their problem, then I say "go for it!" but think to yourself why take a chance on using it during a restoration?, --and is it possible this could come back to haunt the quality of the restoration later??

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BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
... my experiences have been that you cannot get it to "wick in" over a ½ inch (+/-), and often times deteriorated wood is below that surface and still growing. .
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That's what I thought. You would need the stuff to not only soak into the bad wood but also a little into the good wood to join the two.

When I was a kid I helped a guy with the transom of his boat. He used Git Rot. I remember him also drilling into the wood I guess now so the stuff would get in to the good wood as well. We filled the holes with I don't remember what and the next week sanded and painted the transom.
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
Naturally you all can disagree but my experiences have been that you cannot get it to "wick in" over a ½ inch (+/-), and often times deteriorated wood is below that surface and still growing.
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This has been my experience as well. A temporary fix to make it usable for a while, then fix it right later.
 
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