KR Wilson spring spreader

Yoyodyne said:
I think I understand. Yes, it would be tough to fabricate to replace that casting, without spending huge time on it. Thanks for the photos.
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As a (retired) tool maker, I can tell you to make one of that piece would take a few hours at most. Not complicated whatsoever.
Methinks the shop that didn't want to do simply didn't want to do it.
 
If the spring is in a car/truck, you can support the ends of the spring with blocks and/or jacks to take the weight off the shackles and remove them that way. And yes, just slight movement indicates the pressure is off.

I'll give that a shot tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.
 
Lawson Cox said:
I'll give that a shot tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.
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I'd recommend 6 jackstands. 4 under the frame to jack the car up level. Jack the rear up until there is a little weight on the spring, and put 2 stands under the rear housings. Then jack up on one side of the rear housing another inch or so and cut a length of 4X4 to support the eye of the spring to the floor, but not enough to make the car unstable on the 4 jackstands. Jack up the other eye of the spring a little and the shackles should be relaxed and able to be withdrawn from the perches. Repeat raising the spring eyes a little at a time if they aren't free yet, until they are free. If you are removing the rear, the next step is to drop it to the ground and unbolt the rest of it.


All the getting up and down off the floor is a PITA, it's nice to have someone else to help run the jack and to hand you blocks. A bottle jack or 2 can be handy to put adjustable upward pressure on the spring eyes instead of 4X4s.


If you have 2 floor jacks, put one up under each spring eye until the shackles get loose.
 
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Kube said:
As a (retired) tool maker, I can tell you to make one of that piece would take a few hours at most. Not complicated whatsoever.
Methinks the shop that didn't want to do simply didn't want to do it.
Click to expand...
What would you charge for one?
 
v8fordman said:
Here are a couple of pictures of the attachment that allows you to remove (or install) the front spring using a KRW spring spreader. Notice how it attaches which causes the overall length of the piece reaching the spring to become reduced. This works very well as most KRW tools do. As mentioned earlier, this is a VERY rare attachment for the KRW spring spreader. I've only seen two in my life.
Click to expand...


The attachment shown allows the KRW spring spreader to be used on 35 - 48 front springs. It won't work on the 32 - 34 springs. Other methods, some mentioned in this thread, have to be used for those early cars.
 
Kube said:
As a (retired) tool maker, I can tell you to make one of that piece would take a few hours at most. Not complicated whatsoever.
Methinks the shop that didn't want to do simply didn't want to do it.
Click to expand...

My guy has made many complicated dies and is quiet accomplished as a retired old school tool and die maker who says it can't be made in a few hours. You might be surprised at some of the household items that you have that he made the dies for...back in the day. He has never shied away from anything I have asked him to do, so your assumption that he "simply didn't want to do it" is a false assumption. It's a function of cost versus return on investment. He made several dies for me to make the parts I made for the late Roy Nacewicz.

Now that you have stated you can do one in a "few hours", the cost factor just went down. I'll bet we can sell a few and I see someone else has already said he would take one. I bet there are more out there. How about it?
 
Lawson. if you are just 1/8" too long, could you just weigh the car down a bit to gain the 1/8"? A couple of people sitting in it would do that or a ratchet strap around the axle and crossmember would pull it down.

Mart.
 
I changed the spring shackles on a 38 ford in 1950 using a model T Ford jack under the spring eyes. Later made a spreader using 3/4” redi bolt, pipe, nut, thrust bearing and welded spades onto the pipe. Worked very well. Keep in mind that the spring is in a pxxxd off position and whatever you are using should be very secure.
 
v8fordman said:
My guy has made many complicated dies and is quiet accomplished as a retired old school tool and die maker who says it can't be made in a few hours. You might be surprised at some of the household items that you have that he made the dies for...back in the day. He has never shied away from anything I have asked him to do, so your assumption that he "simply didn't want to do it" is a false assumption. It's a function of cost versus return on investment. He made several dies for me to make the parts I made for the late Roy Nacewicz.

Now that you have stated you can do one in a "few hours", the cost factor just went down. I'll bet we can sell a few and I see someone else has already said he would take one. I bet there are more out there. How about it?
Click to expand...

I spent the better part of my life's work as a tool maker retiring in 2006. Within that trade are varying levels of skills and experiences.
I would not be surprised of anything your friend may have produced. Nor would he most likely not be surprised by the dies I had produced.
However, I doubt you or anyone else would have anything made from my dies in your household. Unless of course you own a tank, personal carrier or jet, etc.
Regardless, the comparison I believe you were attempting to make is apples to oranges.

I do recall fairly well making my spreader and three others just like it. This was in the year 2004 or so. The reason I know they took about three hours each to make is I had charged (at that time) $110 / hour plus actual material cost. I'd sold the three 'extra" spreaders back then for $400 each. So, three hours at $110 and $70 for material...

If I recall correctly I had used stress proof steel for the "guts" and plain ol' cold rolled tubing for the sleeve.
The sleeve is thick wall (.250"). The ends of the "guts" were milled to make the areas that push directly against the ends of the spring. I'd turned down the threaded portion and cut the threads (1" - 8) in the lathe.
My thinking was one piece was surely stronger than multiple pieces and well, easier to produce.
I did not (obviously) make the wrench.
I did make a number of sleeves so the overall length of the spreader could be changed to accommodate whatever was to be worked on.
 

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Mart said:
Lawson. if you are just 1/8" too long, could you just weigh the car down a bit to gain the 1/8"? A couple of people sitting in it would do that or a ratchet strap around the axle and crossmember would pull it down.

Mart.
Click to expand...

I got that part solved with a good spreader. My problem is finding the sweet spot to get the bushings out. I've tried 'em all w/o success.
 
I just changed all my bushing on my 40 and my Model A with just 2 bottle jacks.I put 1 jack under the side I was doing and the other on the other side of the spring no trouble doing it that way.But I have Posies springs on both cars
 
I now have a spreader like that. However, I don't have all of the acuterments it appears. I do not believe mine has a name or number anywhere on it. I'll check closer

I must have forgotten to post that I finally got the bushings installed. Sorry for that. (I'm sure I posted that. It must have been in another thread.
 
The Snap-On spreader in #54 above is clearly is oriented toward Model A rear springs situated directly above the rear axle rather than behind the rear axle. It does not look as safe to use as the later K.R. Wilson version with the safety catches on the ends.


To spread the '32-'34 front springs we made a reduced-size version of the KRW rear spring spreader.
 
DavidG said:
The Snap-On spreader in #54 above is clearly is oriented toward Model A rear springs situated directly above the rear axle rather than behind the rear axle.
Click to expand...


Model "A" version with spring ABOVE axle, rather than BEHIND it.

Coop/AMERICAN


295007
 
DavidG said:
The Snap-On spreader in #54 above is clearly is oriented toward Model A rear springs situated directly above the rear axle rather than behind the rear axle. It does not look as safe to use as the later K.R. Wilson version with the safety catches on the ends.


To spread the '32-'34 front springs we made a reduced-size version of the KRW rear spring spreader.
Click to expand...

David,
Like you, I made an adapter of sorts to R&R the '33 - '34 front springs. I'd also made an adapter to R&R that danged curved rear spring.
 
v8fordman said:
Here are a couple of pictures of the attachment that allows you to remove (or install) the front spring using a KRW spring spreader. Notice how it attaches which causes the overall length of the piece reaching the spring to become reduced. This works very well as most KRW tools do. As mentioned earlier, this is a VERY rare attachment for the KRW spring spreader. I've only seen two in my life.
Click to expand...


V8 Fordman, I was lucky enough to find both of these versions and yes, they work well on the front. For someone who needs something available you can use the model a front spring or rear even upside down I believe. I have and use them in A’s all the time but use my kr Wilson rear unit in v8’s. I’m kind of a krw junkie so haven’t passed up too many over the years. Super glad I got them as they have been invaluable.

I didn’t know it till about 6 months ago but there’s a kr wilson Facebook group. You can post out there if you are looking for something. At least it’s a resource.
I think it’s harder to find them now than it was 20 years ago.
Larry
 
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