Kong flatheads

Thanks Ronnie . . . as usual, we're in violent agreement! Hope all is well with you and Laura!

Hi Dale we are both doing well and both staying busy on the new Deuce 3 window project.
Its coming along nicely power will be a big block that's off brand. Size 426 with the spark plugs where I like them located in the center of the valve covers. ;)
Ron
 
BORED & STROKED:Here are the pics, a TR Roberts Blower (6-7 psi) w/ a pr of Stromberg BIG 97's and Patriot lakester pipes on a mockup block next to the TV in the Family Rm. Mufflers can be installed inside the exhaust ends. There are also muffler tips that turn the exhaust down at a 45 degree.

For some reason I enjoy watching TV more.

That is the American Speed 33 fenderless Ford roadster (all steel) that I building except no hood or hood side panels and I'm using a '34 grille vs the '33 with the grill blacked out except for the trim ring. The carb bird scoops will be halfway above the front cowl.
 

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The TR Roberts Blower (6-7 psi) w/ a pr of Stromberg BIG 97's and Patriot lakester pipes on a mockup block next to the TV in the Family Rm. Mufflers can be installed inside the exhaust ends. There are also muffler tips that turn the exhaust down at a 45 degree.

For some reason I enjoy watching TV more.

That is the American Speed 33 fenderless Ford roadster (all steel) that I building except no hood or hood side panels and I'm using as '34 grille vs the '33 with the grill blacked out except for the trim ring. The bird scoops will be halfway above the front cowl.
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I have one of Tom Robert's intakes - would love to see your overall blower setup. Did you machine a plate for the blower to mount on the intake, or are you running one of the Eaton style blowers with maybe a cast top? I'd like to see the belt setup as well - if you don't mind.

Are you running a 4-71 . . . or? Also, you might want to think about a bit more aggressive cam - as the blower will tame the cam anyway and you could use some more duration and lift (as least I know I would). You could run a L100 or a Potvin 3/8 or an Isky 1007B . . . all three would be good with your setup.

And as Ronnie noted, I'm a BIG FAN of a Potvin 3/8 grind . . . one of the best flathead cams for the street (blown or unblown) that there is!

From users: I read where a .400 lift (Isky 400jr) is a bit too lopy at stop and go traffic and a.364 lift (Isky Max-1) is a somewhat mild race cam. Just as Goldilocks found her porrige at the right temperature, a Schneider cam to the Potvin 3/8 specs (.375 lift) is almost right in between. An exact in-between would be a .382 lift
 
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TR Roberts did the whole setup with a Magnuson blower and a TR designed base. The belt setup can be seen on his webpage. I added the new BIG Strombergs (250 cfm each) on a Vintage Speed dual to a quad base setup. Since the interior size of the roadster is small, I'm planning on using a 12v room sized water vapor cooled air conditioner. Supposed to cool an 8'-10' room 10-12 degrees. The interior is only 1/4 of that. Will see if it works. If not, an EV AC system (4OA) will be looked at, with a much bigger alternator. I just don't want to see the compressor and hoses on and around the flathead motor. Want to maintain an "old school" bare bones look, yet with modern conveniences hidden. Even using both, a line lock (for starting from a traffic stop on an incline with no roll back), and a hydraulic e-brake with no visible hand brake in the interior. No visible interior switches either. On the dash just a speedo, water temp, voltage, oil pressure and fuel. Tach on the steering column and a 1940's Ford 2 spoke steering wheel. Radio hidden, speakers up under the dash, hidden too.
Now the cool part, replacing the solid bar radiator support rods and replacing them with 1/4" i.d. s.s. tubes with about 12 - 1/8" holes, 1" apart in each of the 2 tubes facing the blower and a 3/16" wide LED strip light inside each tube to illuminate the blower at night. The wires will extend into the firewall, all out of sight. Found that the 2 tubes are actually stiffer than the solid rods. Able to glue the original ends of the rod into the tube and drill a hole on the firewall end to feed 2 low voltage wires into the firewall. Used clear epoxy to seal the 1/8" diameter drilled holes in the tube for water tightness. Hard to tell where the light is coming from.
 
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Read where H&H Flathead will be reproducing the KONG flatheads, since FlatAttack (my source for the Kong heads) went out of business in AU.
 
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Read where H&H Flathead will be reproducing the KONG flatheads, since FlatAttack (my source for the Kong heads) went out of business in AU.

Mike Davidson of Flatattack closed business due to health. He made his own FlatAttack heads did he actually make any Kong heads? H&H has Kong castings made already and probably machined by now.
Your picture surprised me as i thought you were building a period correct nostalgic engine. She got the billet bling.
 
The only chrome on the block is the blower and that was a mistake by TR Roberts. It initially disappointed me to see it polished. But it didn't cost me anything extra and due to shipping costs back and forth he ate the polishing cost. Am pricing to have it blasted flat to a cast aluminum look.The BIG 97's (250 cfm each) came glossy black from Stromberg, but will be flat black when ready to mount matching the exhaust. May even blast the bird scoops.The face of the pulleys will be blasted flat. The TR Robert base plenum is a cast finish. Lots of tv light reflection on the aluminum. The block itself will be either a satin or flat red.
The front grille assembly will also be gloss black with a flat black grille with the satin s.s.trim ring standing out. No hood or side panels. But sigh, I did succumb to the all chrome front end. The winters rear quick change will also be cast aluminum.
 
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Ok, settled on the Schneider grind (Potvin) and the Edelbrock 1116 heads (got over the desire for a rare set of heads names that would probably need machining to get the flow numbers of the 1116)
 
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