Kingpin question

34fordy

34fordy

Well-known member
Getting ready to do a Kingpin job on my 34--I have read many opinions on reaming versus honing--
After pressing in new bushings the ID will be smaller and the pins will not fit--Reaming or honing will correct this--
I am thinking of chucking the pins in my lathe and filing the pins to fit the bushings--This would assume the bushings were in line and of the same ID which I would have to check first--
I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of this or tried it--
I also am interested in any knowledgeable opinions--
The machine shop in my town closed the end of June--
Thanks, Don
 
34fordy said:
Getting ready to do a Kingpin job on my 34--I have read many opinions on reaming versus honing--
After pressing in new bushings the ID will be smaller and the pins will not fit--Reaming or honing will correct this--
I am thinking of chucking the pins in my lathe and filing the pins to fit the bushings--This would assume the bushings were in line and of the same ID which I would have to check first--
I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of this or tried it--
I also am interested in any knowledgeable opinions--
The machine shop in my town closed the end of June--
Thanks, Don
Click to expand...

If you machine the pin down it will be loose in the axle.
Ream the bushings with a Kingpin reamer!
Bill
 
Absolutely right Bill!! I got ahead of myself I think--It is good to ask a few questions usually before proceeding in uncharted waters--Thanks
 
34fordy said:
Getting ready to do a Kingpin job on my 34--I have read many opinions on reaming versus honing--
After pressing in new bushings the ID will be smaller and the pins will not fit--Reaming or honing will correct this--
I am thinking of chucking the pins in my lathe and filing the pins to fit the bushings--This would assume the bushings were in line and of the same ID which I would have to check first--
I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of this or tried it--
I also am interested in any knowledgeable opinions--
The machine shop in my town closed the end of June--
Thanks, Don
Click to expand...
If you have the proper reamers, this is a job that can be done at home. The key is to have the PROPER reamers. There are special reamers designed to align the upper and lower bushings.

Honing is a very nice alternative and is done at a reasonable fee. Around here, about $50 for the pair of spindles.
 
Or you could do what I did last month. I slotted a 3/4" dowel down the center with my bandsaw and took 2 strips from a 100 grit sanding belt and folded them into an 'L' shape and tucked them into the slot. Then I trimmed the dowel's end to fit into the chuck of my cordless drill. It did not take too long to hone the new bushings to fit the kingpins. Running the drill in reverse now and then made the sanding strips sort of 'cam out' and you could feel the cutting action increase. I would run a bit and test and then small amounts until finally the cleaned and oiled pins would slowly slide down with gravity. I do not think a high tech machine could do any better. Cost nothing because it was all scrap stuff from my cabinet shop.
 

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You have two choices, purchase a good quality reamer and after you complete your job you can include it in your tool inventory. The other is to bring the spindles with pressed in bushings to a machine shop and have them do the job for you. The reamer that I purchased about 40 years ago has a sliding tapered cone that will align the first hole you ream with the next keeping both bores aligned. When I purchased it, like I said about 40 years ago, I asked myself "do I really need it", well I bet I have used or lent it out for about two dozen cars.
 
Turning down the king pins is a bad idea. Do it the right way and have the bushings honed at a machine shop.
 
I am enjoying and appreciating all the comments--I thought GB had a very interesting approach--In actuality it is like a honing process-- It appears it worked well for him--Easy for anyone to think it would not be accurate but in fact may be a very good idea--Necessity being the mother of invention--When you take a small job to a machine shop it could be handed to a novice and you might possibly end up with a pin that has too much clearance--When you do something yourself you are in control of the outcome--I find it interesting that there seem to be two camps on reaming or honing--Similar to using thermostats or not--Few people will change their minds--In the original post I mentioned that the machine shop here had closed the end of June--It seems I have three options--I think it would be interesting to try the method GB used--If it did not work out another set of bushings would be inexpensive--I would bet GB got a lot of satisfaction with his method--
Don
 
Using the sandpaper method will work but it does not align the two bushings ,a poor fitting,short lived repair will result,My advice do it right,do it once! Phil
 
I would recommend seeking out another Early Ford V8 club member near by.
www.efv8.org
Or ask for help from someone nearby here on ford barn.
Most are more than willing to share tools and or help.

If you go it yourself use a reamer or have it honed professionally. As mentioned the purpose of the specialty reamer has been covered.
 
I bought a really nice proper kingpin reamer from an old timer and it does a good job. before that I used to use a standard reamer. To do this you replace the worst of the original bushes, then use the reamer through the remaining original bush to ream the first new one. Then you can replace the second bush and ream that using the first as a guide. This worked perfectly well for me.

A good machine shop will hone them to suit the pins and this would give the very best result, but in reality, a skilfully wielded reamer will get you down the road perfectly well.

Mart.
 
I have decided to try a variation of the method GB used--I have made my tool as seen in the picture I have enclosed--(If it attaches)--I might not do it until winter--All I have to lose is a couple bushings and they are not expensive--I will take measurements at different levels in the bores to see if accuracy is achieved--When I do the job I will report how it came out--I am not afraid to admit if I am wrong--Heaven knows it has happened many times to me--I really appreciate all the responses and especially GB's as it was fun making the tool today-- Thanks to all, Don
 

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Not to steal this thread but, does anyone know the correct size of a properly reamed hole for .811 diameter king pins. Both of my reamers are .8125. I feel that is a bit too loose.
 
I have done both ways of pin to bushing fitting over 50 years. I like the term "quality" reamer. If anyone has developed a style or reaming that will guarantee a chatter free cut from start to finish, I would love to see it. I gave up on bushing reamers years ago and have all king pin bushings I install, HONED to finish size on a Sunnen pin hone. The fit and finish is much better than reaming and the fit remains tight long after a reamed Bushing gives up the ghost. Leave all the Rube Goldberg remedies to the funny papers and spend the relatively small amount it costs to hone the bushings. Of course all of this is dependent upon a good machinist and proper lube intervals (and quality grease). That is my two cents worth, unlike the hobbiests here(and I mean no disrespect because there are some fine home mechanics out there) I had to work in a timely mannor,guarantee my work,and instill confidence in my customer so he would return again for more work. If you are going to do machining of any type, find the best quality route to follow. The extra cost will win out every time. With that said, I see Mickey's little hands tell me it is time to return to the home!
 
When looking at a reamer for suitability look at the spiral of the flutes, if it is the same direction of spiral lubricating grooves in the bushing most likely there will be chatter when using the reamer---and a bad fit

i reamed the bushings in my A, they fit too tight in the beginning, but within 10,000 miles I had 1/2" play at the wheel----I honed the bushings in the 46, after 25,000 miles there was still no play

Both reamed and honed jobs can be bad, or good depending on the tools and how they are maintained and used
 
deucemac said:
I have done both ways of pin to bushing fitting over 50 years. I like the term "quality" reamer. If anyone has developed a style or reaming that will guarantee a chatter free cut from start to finish, I would love to see it. I gave up on bushing reamers years ago and have all king pin bushings I install, HONED to finish size on a Sunnen pin hone. The fit and finish is much better than reaming and the fit remains tight long after a reamed Bushing gives up the ghost. Leave all the Rube Goldberg remedies to the funny papers and spend the relatively small amount it costs to hone the bushings. Of course all of this is dependent upon a good machinist and proper lube intervals (and quality grease). That is my two cents worth, unlike the hobbiests here(and I mean no disrespect because there are some fine home mechanics out there) I had to work in a timely mannor,guarantee my work,and instill confidence in my customer so he would return again for more work. If you are going to do machining of any type, find the best quality route to follow. The extra cost will win out every time. With that said, I see Mickey's little hands tell me it is time to return to the home!
Click to expand...

I guess you've never seen a precision reamer!
A spiral flute precision reamer is almost impossible to chatter and will leave an excellent finish. This is how they were done at the factory and they worked pretty good.
Reaming gets a bad wrap from people using straight blade adjustable reamers which are next to impossible to get a good job.
A kingpin reamer is a spiral flute precision reamer that is long enough to engage the second bushing while reaming the first bushing allowing perfect alignment between the finished bushings.
Bill
 
D. Jones said:
Not to steal this thread but, does anyone know the correct size of a properly reamed hole for .811 diameter king pins. Both of my reamers are .8125. I feel that is a bit too loose.
Click to expand...

.8125 will be fine, that's one and a half thousandths clearance.
Are your reamers Kingpin reamers? (spiral flute and long)
Bill
 
many of the reamers sold for kingpins were(are) not precision reamers, they were made to a cheap price to sell to someone doing their own
 
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