King Pins

I think I believe in the integrity of the axle, what ever was there did not go through the I-beam, I think these cars were way over built for bombing around on the rough roads of that time. I worked all the sharp edges out of the area to minimize break line, There are really no signs of the axle ever hitting anything I think it was a manufacturing defect and some one filled it with ugly, it probably drove around with the funky weld for years. I think I will reinstall it and keep an eye on it and use the money elsewhere getting the car back up to speed, I look forward to posting a photo of it back together, lol.
 
If anyone needs 1947 king pin, perch bolt, info you guys put a lot of it in here for anyone searching, thank you.
 
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Ok, another question, the spring shackle bushing on the drivers side popped right out and seems different from the passenger side, as it does not allow movement and looks like a two piece metal bushing. The original shackle link bolt hole is square so it is solid on the passenger side and seemed to allow movement on the drive side, the drivers side had a disintegrated rubber bushing so it fell right out.

Pic of locked up bushing, I put heat to it and put a socket over the bolt so as not to destroy it and gave it a few good hits with a big hammer and nothing.

On a positive note I ordered a Posies three inch drop spring and shackles yesterday morning from Speedway Motors, they were on the porch this morning, how do they do that? And free shipping!

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Old shackles.

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I have not destroyed the old bushing bolt, yet, lol, I could use the old shackle link if I drill the top out to fit the new shackle bolt through the spring with the rubber bushings, they are the same length as the old ones, but if I do that there will be no movement where it attaches to the wish bone frame.
Pic below shows how the old shackle fits over the square base, and locked in that position, was it designed that way or is it just seized. And yes they are upside down but either way locked in a vertical position.

Thanks for your thoughts.

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I received a package from rich b today, what an awesome bunch, it looks like the same vintage and low mileage steering stop nut that was MIA on my car, I wouldn't be surprised if rich b gets a little something something in the mail himself.

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stinky nasty job, but i burn out the rubber until you can pull the stud out with a vise grip, then if you are good with a cutting torch, clean the tip, then cut a slice out of the outer shell. its thin and will cut fast without wrecking any thing else. sissy's will avoid this and use a hack saw blade instead.
 
cas3 said:
stinky nasty job, but i burn out the rubber until you can pull the stud out with a vise grip, then if you are good with a cutting torch, clean the tip, then cut a slice out of the outer shell. its thin and will cut fast without wrecking any thing else. sissy's will avoid this and use a hack saw blade instead.
Click to expand...

Is there actually rubber there, I have looked and poked and it looks like metal inside a metal bushing.

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hmm...looking at your picture i have to agree it looks like metal. sometimes the ends are curved around the rubber, but if you poked at it with a pick you should find out. if its a steel or bronze bushing you will need to devise a press of some sort. i am not familiar with that type with a shock mount, perhaps some one else will have a better idea
 
I took cas3 advise and put my big boy pants on and put the heat to it longer it slowly started to smoke so it was burning something off, At that point I used the old spring links like a wrench and a rubber hammer to turn them, barely, at that point I cut the ends off and used a brass drift to drive it out.

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Moved pretty good until the half way point, naturally.

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I had to put the radius ball against a concrete ledge in the garage to back it up, and used plyer to hold the drift as I was swinging from the bleachers to knock it out.

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Half way, lol, I used the hack saw trick and got a cut started, then used a punch that I put an angle chisel point on round on the other to slide under the bushing, it was slow going. There was some kind of cloth fiber packing in it.
Pic below, pin, packing, what's left of the bushing.

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Well that's scary, there was all kinds of dust coming out of it as I beat on it I hope I get it back together before I die, lol.

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way to go!!! fighting with these things can bring the best of your creativity. with only the tools at hand, you won! nice photo's too
 
I use poly bushings now, in this case. Other times the original bushings are better. I know it's not totally concourse. But boy, they work well and easy to replace. If I was doing a points car I would always use original style bushings.


If you reuse the original type they will need to be pressed in. and they will last another 60-70plus yrs.


Front end suspension rebuild is one of the more labor intensive jobs, that can be done by yourself.
 
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Sod Buster said:
I think I believe in the integrity of the axle, what ever was there did not go through the I-beam, I think these cars were way over built for bombing around on the rough roads of that time. I worked all the sharp edges out of the area to minimize break line, There are really no signs of the axle ever hitting anything I think it was a manufacturing defect and some one filled it with ugly, it probably drove around with the funky weld for years. I think I will reinstall it and keep an eye on it and use the money elsewhere getting the car back up to speed, I look forward to posting a photo of it back together, lol.
Click to expand...


I don't know the the extent of the the crack or weld, a crack is not a manufacturing issue. But I would look at it seriously. Somewhere there is a display axles twisted for displays to show strength.
 
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Tinker said:
I don't know the the extent of the the crack or weld, a crack is not a manufacturing issue. But I would look at it seriously. Somewhere there is a display axles twisted for displays to show strength.
Click to expand...

I was able to file it out, and left no sharp break line, and there was nothing through the top of the eyebeam, I can see no signs of damage to the bottom of the axle, no scrapes even, where it is at is odd. I do not think it was a crack so much as a void and the weld did not look very hot just voluminous.:p
I will for sure keep an eye on it and would let any future owner know of the condition. I haven't written off Sid's, but with out a core it will be a little expensive and I'm spending quite a bit in bits and pieces as is.
 
Sod Buster said:
I was able to file it out, and left no sharp break line, and there was nothing through the top of the eyebeam, I can see no signs of damage to the bottom of the axle, no scrapes even, where it is at is odd. I do not think it was a crack so much as a void and the weld did not look very hot just voluminous.:p
I will for sure keep an eye on it and would let any future owner know of the condition. I haven't written off Sid's, but with out a core it will be a little expensive and I'm spending quite a bit in bits and pieces as is.
Click to expand...

Since Sid is so close, maybe you could kill two birds with one stone, by taking it to him and having him evaluate it. Since he works with these all the time, he can probably tell you if it's compromised or not. If it's good, you could have him drop it, no core charge. If you're lucky you may even get him to fill the gouge in the top. Just a suggestion.

Sounds like a good excuse for a road trip and a tour.
 
Just an update after all the help, I am close to reinstalling everything, I should have my spindles back Monday, I am just doing a little final clean underneath while its open.
Thanks again for the help and advise, it obviously went a little further than king pins.

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