King Pin Reaming

What Pete says is correct , you can buy set adjustable paper reamers from Harbor freight will give you a reasonable job ,
 
All,
I may be buying a THIRD KP bushing reamer!! I believe this one will do the trick!

https://www.icscuttingtools.com/catalog/page_194A.pdf

page_194A.pdf
 
Kindly indulge my ignorance but how do honing and teaming differ? I would assume reaming is cutting a hole to size with bladed reamer and honing the same but using abrasion??
 
All,
Great information! Another question arises however. People are saying that the King Pins available now have significant variation in diameter. My understanding has been that the original KP's were .814 dia. An adjustable KP reamer seems like the answer however many don't like the adjustable types. I see Snyder's offers one very close to one like my friend Tom Endy recommends but Snyder's doesn't mention the diameter of this NON-adjustable reamer at all. I'd really rather do the work myself if possible but this has me scratching my head!!!
 
PeteCruz2715 said:
All,
Great information! Another question arises however. People are saying that the King Pins available now have significant variation in diameter. My understanding has been that the original KP's were .814 dia. An adjustable KP reamer seems like the answer however many don't like the adjustable types. I see Snyder's offers one very close to one like my friend Tom Endy recommends but Snyder's doesn't mention the diameter of this NON-adjustable reamer at all. I'd really rather do the work myself if possible but this has me scratching my head!!!
Click to expand...

Don't forget that with new bushings the inside diameters will decrease after pressing the bushing in
 
This is the reamer that I used and it worked great !

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=977701&cat=41753

I miked the diameters and found the input end was .802, diameter past the flutes was .805. I measured the flutes as best I could and it was .814.

The fit on the kingpins was an excellent sliding fit. The pins were new which is probably essential to an acceptable fit if reaming rather than honing. I always prefer to buy special tools if necessary to do the job rather than farm the job out. As mentioned earlier, after new bushings are pressed in the ID will be reduced and must be reamed. I also bought the king pins from Snyder. I would go the same route again. Good Luck.
 
Also a note for those of you who might not know, NEVER turn a reamer backward or back and forth like a tap. Believe it or not it takes that cutting edge right off
 
vern hodgson said:
Kindly indulge my ignorance but how do honing and teaming differ? I would assume reaming is cutting a hole to size with bladed reamer and honing the same but using abrasion??
Click to expand...

bbrocksr said:
Correct.
Click to expand...

Yes Vern, ...however the Hone stones have more surface area to support the cutting action whereas the cutter's narrow width of the Reamer does not always have the ability to support itself. The benefit a spiral Reamer has it can keep the Reamer centered. My honing stones are trued in a carbide sleeve to ensure they are accurately round prior to honing the bushing, and then the type stones I use have a 320° coverage around the inside bore's radius. Because I can remove one-quarter of a thousandth (0.00025" !!) of an inch with my machine, I can first measure the ground shank area of the Spindle Bolt to know the exact size and then hone to the appropriate clearance size. This cannot be done with a fixed Reamer.


bbrocksr said:
They were reamed at the factory. Reaming with a precision kingpin reamer is as good as factory.
Click to expand...

Yes, possibly Bill ...however mostly No in the method being discussed here.

At the factory, they were indeed reamed with the Spindle mounted into a fixture that created rigidity, AND the Reamer was being driven at a constant and continuous speed under mechanized power. There is a HUGE difference between hand operating a Reamer with the spindle mounted into a vise, -vs. clamping the Spindle into a rigid fixture with a purpose built and ground Reamer being driven by a machine that has a quill that does not deflect. (The best analogy I can give is it is comparing factory reaming to hand reaming is like comparing two paint jobs on Model-As, -one sprayed with Krylon aerosol paint cans, and the other sprayed with a SATA 5000 spray gun. Someone can argue that both jobs were spray painted, however I suspect we all can easily spot the quality differences between the two methods. ;) )
 
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BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
Yes Vern, ...however the Hone stones have more surface area to support the cutting action whereas the cutter's narrow width of the Reamer does not always have the ability to support itself. The benefit a spiral Reamer has it can keep the Reamer centered. My honing stones are trued in a carbide sleeve to ensure they are accurately round prior to honing the bushing, and then the type stones I use have a 320° coverage around the inside bore's radius. Because I can remove one-quarter of a thousandth (0.00025" !!) of an inch with my machine, I can first measure the ground shank area of the Spindle Bolt to know the exact size and then hone to the appropriate clearance size. This cannot be done with a fixed Reamer.




Yes, possibly Bill ...however mostly No in the method being discussed here.

At the factory, they were indeed reamed with the Spindle mounted into a fixture that created rigidity, AND the Reamer was being driven at a constant and continuous speed under mechanized power. There is a HUGE difference between" hand operating a hone" with the spindle mounted into a vise, -vs. clamping the Spindle into a rigid fixture with a purpose built and ground Reamer being driven by a machine that has a quill that does not deflect. (The best analogy I can give is it is comparing factory reaming to hand reaming is like comparing two paint jobs on Model-As, -one sprayed with Krylon aerosol paint cans, and the other sprayed with a SATA 5000 spray gun. Someone can argue that both jobs were spray painted, however I suspect we all can easily spot the quality differences between the two methods. ;) )
Click to expand...

Hand operating a hone?
 
Brent ,I was questioning your last post where you said " hand operating a hone with the spindle mounted in a vise"?
By the way I also own and have operated a sunnen hone for years but I also know how precise a precision reamed hole can be.
Bill
 
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bbrocksr said:
Brent ,I was questioning your last post where you said " hand operating a hone with the spindle mouted in a vise"?
By the way I also own and have operated a sunnen hone for years but I also know how precise a precision reamed hole can be.
Bill
Click to expand...


Good catch Bill. I changed it to read correctly.

FWIW, if you have never used the upgraded TA-1000 mandrel and stones on a Sunnen pin fitting machine, you won't believe how much of an improvement it is over the standard Sunnen hones that used the one stone and two shoes.
 
I have several reamers if anyone is interested. Call me at (540) 493-8756. Email is rmullen28@hotmail.com. And you can message me here. Also quite a few other Model A tools. I can make a nice care package. Brands include Snap-On, Blue Point, Herbrand, Bonney, and others. Also have model T and early Ford V8 tools. Some are quite rare.
 
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