King Pin Reaming

PeteCruz2715

PeteCruz2715

Member
All,
I had been searching for a proper King Pin (bushing) reamer and now have two. The problem is that I am still perplexed as to how to use them properly to maintain "center". The first one came in a dandy little box that clearly indicates it is for Model A Fords (and a list of others.) The reamer is stamped at .814 and mic's at that. However the fluted area is too short to do both bushings at the same time. If I ream the first bushing (leaving the old second bushing in place to "pilot" with) then there would be too much slop in the newly cut bushing to properly center the reamer while cutting the second bushing.

The second reamer has fluting down the significant portion of it and is stamped 13/16" (.8125) which would allow me to cut both in the same pass. However, I have no way to pilot the reamer while cutting the first (top) bushing. I'm pretty sure this is a "user error" issue but it's got me baffled. Help!

Short reamer1_small.jpg

Short reamer box1_small.jpg

Long reamer1_small.jpg
 
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As I recall the tool is tapered because the oins are tapered. You go don from the top, and that centers the ream. Don't take any more material of than you need to.
 
Gene F said:
As I recall the tool is tapered because the oins are tapered. You go don from the top, and that centers the ream. Don't take any more material of than you need to.
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I don't think they are tapered and only recommend a machine shop hone for perfect fit.
 
Must follow a sequence. First, press in one new bushing. Put the reamer through the old bushing and into the new bushing then cut slowly using lube. Then remove and replace the old bushing and locate the reamer through the bushing just cut into the final new bushing and slowly cut the final bushing. Be sure and keep the flutes clean of chips to avoid damaging the just cut surface. Let us know how it goes.
 
PeteCruz2715, I have the same reamer driver as you. It appears that you didn't get the directions on how to use the reamer. Pictured are the directions. I have used this reamer on two of my Model A frontends. I agree that if a machine shop was to hone them it might be a perfect fit but your reamer if sharp will do a good job for you. Hope this helps!
 

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You don't have the right reamer yet.
Here is what it looks like.
Reaming is a VERY poor Mickey Mouse way to finish bushings.
Take it to an automotive machine shop and have them honed. They will then be the proper size, surface finish and last far longer.
 

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When finished holding the axel so the king pin is vertical the pin should not fall out without very light finger touch. Should be a qualified shop in your area











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Pete said:
You don't have the right reamer yet.
Here is what it looks like.
Reaming is a VERY poor Mickey Mouse way to finish bushings.
Take it to an automotive machine shop and have them honed. They will then be the proper size, surface finish and last far longer.
Click to expand...

If the bush is not round, honing will only follow that shape and you might end up with out of round bushes - no good. I prefer to ream the bushes (with a pilot on the reamer) so that I start with something round to just short of correct size, then either hone or use valve lapping paste and the unworn part of the old king pin to lap them in. That has given me the best results so far.
The difference between too tight and too lose is very little.
 
Hello, also if you do ream them your self, never turn the ream backwards does seem odd to work from a worn surface but works well enough to get it within tolerance.
 
Synchro909 said:
If the bush is not round, honing will only follow that shape and you might end up with out of round bushes - no good. I prefer to ream the bushes (with a pilot on the reamer) so that I start with something round to just short of correct size, then either hone or use valve lapping paste and the unworn part of the old king pin to lap them in. That has given me the best results so far.
The difference between too tight and too lose is very little.
Click to expand...

You are entitled to your wrong information.
 
Why can't you take a hone and hone it on one bushing until
the pin fits well, and then do the other one? Just asking.
 
Dino's A said:
Why can't you take a hone and hone it on one bushing until
the pin fits well, and then do the other one? Just asking.
Click to expand...

They need to be done with a rigid hone so the holes are on the same centerline. The mandrel goes all the way through both bushings.
 
I bought a king pin reamer from Bratton's about 30 years ago and have used it to ream king pin bushing on about a dozen or more front-end restoration and it seemed to work out fine.

Tom Endy
 
bbrocksr said:
They were reamed at the factory. Reaming with a precision kingpin reamer is as good as factory.
Bill
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As good as factory but they do it because it is cheaper. A reamed hole can never be as accurate as one that is honed.
Honing has been the standard of the industry for rebiuilds since they invented hones.
 
Afordman31, thank you so much for posting those instructions! I bought two sets of bushings so if I screw the first set up I can determine if I want to take what I've learned and try it on the second set or... bite the bullet and have a machine shop hone them!
 
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