King Pin locking pin question

K

KNicholas2

Junior Member
I replaced the king pins and bushings in my "31 Coupe.
When I insert the locking pins I cannot get them flush with the axel without hammering the crap out of them.
Is there a better way or am I doing something wrong?

Thanks

Kim
 
The pin is lined up with the notch in the king pin correct? I like to use a brass hammer or brass punch so you don’t mar up the ends.
 
Yes - at least I THINK they are lined up. I lined up the tapered part of the locking pin with the notch in the king pin.
 
The locking pins don't need to be flush with the axle. Over-tightening the locking pins does nothing except put additional force on the king pins, and can elongate the king pin bore holes.
If the locking pin is properly inserted, it will lock the king pin in place.
Be certain that the spindle is resting on the bearing when assembled. Most reproduction bearings will require a shim (washer) to compensate for the dimensional differences in bearing size between original and repro parts.
 
GRutter said:
The locking pins don't need to be flush with the axle. Over-tightening the locking pins does nothing except put additional force on the king pins, and can elongate the king pin bore holes.
If the locking pin is properly inserted, it will lock the king pin in place.
Be certain that the spindle is resting on the bearing when assembled. Most reproduction bearings will require a shim (washer) to compensate for the dimensional differences in bearing size between original and repro parts.
Click to expand...

I agree. Hammering or pulling the cotter pins in too far will do exactly that - stretch the king pin eye and then you have to either have it repaired or put in a new axle and hope it is OK. and there are no guarantees about that.
One of the first things I look at when assessing a Model A for purchase it those cotter pins. Even standing in front of the car without bending over, you can see whether they have been butchered. I like to see them standing out anything up to about 1/4".
 
As a previous poster advises you are definately doing something wrong . I am very surprised you actually managed to get the locking pin flush . The pin has a taper and it will stop going in to the axle when it is seated, when you tighten the nut it is then locked . I think the damage is done and it is now best left as is no gain in putting a new pin .

John in dull evening Suffolk County England .
 
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