Kicking a hornet's nest?

German guy

Senior Member
At the risk....


I will be installing a 6.1:1 head on my 30 Tudor as soon as temps warm up. The question of whether or not to use a silicon gasket sealer or not with the Snyder's recommended metalic "Best" gasket comes to mind. Also, I have seen large differences of opinion regarding torque level. Could I get a few suggestions without starting a war among friends?


Also...anyone try the Snyder's coolant level gauge with the sight tube attached to the radiator? The baffles make it impossible to know my coolant level. Too high and it spits out of the cap making a sticky mess on my paint...too low...well.
 
Synder’s 6-1 head, best 509g ? gasket, 1/2 vile of head/block sealer, 55 then after several torques 60 ft lbs now 65 ft lbs , no leaks Check for flatness with the head and block !!!

As for coolant level add to much and then use the drain to let some out just below the baffles ?? I would fix your leaking radiator cap and clean out the overflow tube !
 
I have had the best success with the Best graphite gasket (#509G) and the copper spray gasket cement. I torque to 55 foot-pounds starting at 25 and increasing in 10 foot-pound increments. I retorque after 15 minutes of run time followed by a retorque at 100 miles and then again at 500 miles. Then once a year. I do not back off the nuts before retorquing. I have used this on the 6.1 and 6.5 heads. I do not use a gasket under the water outlet casting (goose neck) and just use some gasket sealer there.

I agree with Big Hammer that the radiator cap needs a gasket. I have had good luck with oversize O rings.
 
Last edited:
Make your own gaskets by repurposing motor oil containers. Gaskets made this way are far superior to commercial ones, and you can tailor them to fit.
 

Attachments

  • Gaskets – Homemade For Caps & Drain Plug 173kb.jpg
    Gaskets – Homemade For Caps & Drain Plug 173kb.jpg
    61.6 KB · Views: 89
I agree with nkaminar on the gasket, sealer and torque sequence. I also use just gasket sealer at the gooseneck fitting, no gasket.
 
I used the copper clad gasket and sprayed it with copper coat-both sides. I think I torqued to 60-65 lbs. I also used a gasket under the goose neck.

Mike
 
Make your own gaskets by repurposing motor oil containers. Gaskets made this way are far superior to commercial ones, and you can tailor them to fit.

I don't think I would trust a head gasket made from a used motor oil container.
 
Guten Tag, Do what Neil (nkaminar) recommends assuming the head is flat within .0375mm and the block surface finish is guten. The best gasket works well.

The water level tube Snyder sells is a manometer. I have personally made a similar version of this device and it works.
 
CT Jack I read your statement with interest. Was wondering if you could share a picture with us all?

I have personally made a similar version of this device and it works.[/QUOTE]
 
Back
Top