key broken off inside column lock, '33

Digger

Digger

Well-known member
Hurd key broken off inside cylinder of column lock. Anyone had any luck getting it out and a key made? I do have a blank Hurd key, just concerned about turning to the OFF position to get the key out, and never being able to go back....
 
I would drlll out the pressed in retaing pin to get the lock out. The lock has a code on it that a locksmith can use to cut a new key. A competent locksmith should be able to get the old key out and make you a new one. JJ&J locksmith in Fredricksburg Tx can do it.
I would drill and tap the housing to use a set screw so the lock could be removed easily in the future.
 
Someone once posted this idea on one of the forums I read. I haven't tried it yet because I don't have any keys broken off in cylinder locks. They suggested getting a very small coping saw blade and insert it below the broken piece of key that's still in the lock cylinder. Then pull the blade up and out. The teeth on the blade should be in their cutting direction facing out. Also the lock cylinder must be in the locked position to allow the piece of key to come out. I once had a broken key that I wanted to make a new key from. I laid that broken part of the key against a new blank key and clamped these pieces together side by side in a holding fixture that I made. I then very slowly and carefully cut a new key using a set of jeweler's files. The new key worked perfectly. I have since made many keys for my old Fords using this method. Hope this helps some. J.M.
 
I have used the tooth of a small saw blade to hook a portion of a key broke in a lock, sometimes the blade has to be carefully ground smaller to fit.

If the retaining pin is removed the whole tumbler can be removed, then a new key should be able to be made from the code #, and the piece pushed out from behind, as an added bonus you can lube the steering lock better through the cylinder hole and clean out some dirt.
 
If you use the coping saw blade, you should grind the teeth off of one side of the blade and slip the blade down inside the lock, between the key and the lock, putting the smooth side away from the key. The sharp edge blade, with the teeth will grab the key and pull it out.
 
Thanks for all the great suggestions. The key is broken off in the ON position, so car is fully functioning, and the restoratoin is almost complete. This is about the last item to address, I just kept putting it off till later, which is now. This project is now "key" to the cars completion, get it...?
 
The key will not come out until the lock is in the locked position. I would remove the lock assy as the steering shaft locking assy plunger must be frozen as indicated by the broken key. The lock also may be frozen. I have freed up locks with a product called Evap o rust. It does not hurt the tiny springs or the finish.
 
Evap O Rust is fine, but a 50-50 mixture of ATF and acetone is easier to come by.
Put some in a squirt can and shoot it in there every few hours if it is rusted and turn to the locked position with a blunt screw driver.
Drill out the little soft pin and pull the cylinder out.
You may be able to blow the key out with air pressure with the cylinder still in place.
At worst you can buy a new cylinder and key for cheap. Ijust got the cheap one from C&G. Looks & works great.
 
Digger wrote:>>>concerned about turning to the OFF position to get the key out, and never being able to go back.>>>I just kept putting it off>>>

I'd be reluctant to pull the whole lock out without FIRST trying to turn it off and the coping saw extraction trick. Maybe liberally lube things with the suggested evaporust, acetone/atf or penetrating oil beforehand.

Jack E/NJ
 
If it were mine i would use a screwdriver to turn the swith to the lock position after i lubed it good with some sort of oil. JB blaster or whatever, then use a dental pick and hook the key and pull it out, and take it to a locksmith and have a key made . Marv
 
Digger.....I had a carbon copy problem with my ignition key on my '36.

For years we drove it w/o locking the ignition. I ended up using W-D

on the key way and used a very small (right angle) dentist pick to ease the stub end out of the hole. Then I found a feller in Missouri who helped me by cutting me a new key from his Hurd collection of blanks. If you get it out and still interested, I can give you his contact info....let me know ! Good Luck !! D.B.

P. S. Do Not take the ignition apart...You will have a mess putting it back together !!!!!
 
Ay,yi-yi, locksmiths use a small gimlet to extract broken keys, they simply screw the sharp end into the centre of the key a couple of turns and pull it out. Once out, falling outa bed is harder than making a new key.
BTW, NEVER use a wet lubricant in any lock, dust and dirt is the enemy of locks and any foreign particles that find their way in will stick to the 'wet' lube. Eventually this will cause the small pieces (pins and springs) to bind up, after that the key becomes harder to operate and will either cause excessive wear in the lock or the key may break.
A dry lube should be used (if required at all) such as powdered graphite.
 
Just checked and the key does turn in the lock very easily, I tested it only to about the 3 o'clock position. When I am done with the car, I will turn it all the way, extract, have a key made, that's the plan anyway, hope it works. I agree that taking the whole thing apart is something to avoid at this point, thanks again Barners
 
Leave it very slightly turned as a help for future lock&extract operation...broken keys can get to be hard to turn because of depth issues, in too far or too much, and they can be difficult to get back to a happy position! If yours can be stated, leave it turned just a bit so it cannot move back out of register.
 
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