Ken CT...lead washers

B

Bruce Lancaster

Member Emeritus
Ken, you mentioned liking NOS lead power valve washers. I went looking and found a source for sheets of lead...how thick are these things?
Seems like with a sheet of lead and some hole punches they would be easy to make.
 
Bruce, Could you make them out of "dead soft" copper? Arts and crafts stores usually sell 1 in. square copper pieces about 1/6 in thick. You could heat them up to make them even "deader". I have a few if you want to give it a try. Just PM me.
 
Bruce Lancaster said:
Ken, you mentioned liking NOS lead power valve washers. I went looking and found a source for sheets of lead...how thick are these things?
Seems like with a sheet of lead and some hole punches they would be easy to make.
Click to expand...

Would these lead power valve washers solve the problem of putting the new Holley power valves in the Ford/Holley 94 carbs(without modification of the valve)? If so, this would solve the availability problem of quality, consistant, predictable power valves. I, for one, would be interested in purchasing these gaskets (preferred), or learning to make them. Thanks to all...jack

Once again, the smart guys on The Barn come up with solutions to ongoing problems. Thanks again.
 
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That copper idea might work,going to check copper washers at McMaster-carr and see whats availible dimention wize. ken ct ID hole must be .550 + or - .010 or close to that. ken ct.
 
Well, my learning curve is going to start soon. I ordered up some 1/16 lead, closest I could find so far, and some hole punches. ID will have to be drilled or reamed from available punch sizes. Put your Hershey address up, ken, I'll bring you a chunk of lead to play with. At least the lead will be easier to work than titanium!
 
Perhaps the quick way to make these is to take the lead sheet to an abrasive jet (water jet) job shop and let them cut them....if you have a CAD model, they can cut quickly and make a shaped cut....like the late model power valve gasket. Other way is to machine a die to stamp them.....use a hammer and a piece of wood and make them like cookies.
 
Bruce L
Do not try to drill soft lead or copper sheet. Drill bit will grab. Better to use hole punch
and ream to size.

Bruce

Works good
Lasts long time
 
The ID hole is the most criticle at .550 /// im assuming a 9/16 arch punch is closetest to it @ .5625 A 35/64 drill bit is .5469 which might be a little small and i assume NO punch is availlible that size.I'll have to remeasure and see if any clearance there will be with a hole that size.ken ct.
 
I've ordered punches a bit small and a bit large. Will also see what the metric world offers...punch is ideal I thing for soft metal like this. Perhaps ball broaching, a suitable ball bearing driven through would be a clean way to enlarge, perhaps simply go a bit under and screw the PV through the washer...
Will be able to think about it better once I get the lead and the punches. Don't know yet how cleanly punches will work on this stuff...
 
depending on the "exact" dimension for the I.D., there is a very common oil pan drain plug soft copper washer that is .565 ID X .780 OD X .056 thk. This is a metric washer (14mm X 20mm) although the ID dimension measures 14.23mm.
If the .565 ID will work, then go get a VW washer part number N-013-849-2 that fits the VW/Audi VR6/V6 engine, about $0.80 each.
If you need to make it slightly smaller ID, slightly flatten it n your arbor press. May be easier than trying to cut washers out of flat stock.
Just trying to help, not confuse the situation.
Thanks
Floyd
 
I have a whole assortment of punches I made for speciic jobs. I use steel conduit, pipe or tubeing and grind a long taper on the end for the cutting edge. Some I make the taper inside for a clean closer fit. I have used them on leather, rubber, plastic, gasket material and lead sheet that was used for roof flashing. Use a medium hard wood for the cutting block. G.M.
 
Guys,
For what ever little it is worth I have had great results using a plastic
material called DELRIN. I buy this material from MSC or McMaster Carr. I uae 3/4
dia round stock and drill and bore the inside dia to .550 dia. The power valve then
gets a .550 dia turned just deep enough to act as a pilot for the gasket. Do not
overlook the fact that most of the gasket faces on the bowl are not real square
with the fine threaded hole that accepts the PV.
My lathe is my good buddy.
Charlie ny
 
Thanks Charlie,and others .Im going to pick up a few of the 14x20 ones and some VW ones and see how they fit. ken ct. I got a VW dealer rite down the street and many parts places. ken ct thanks guys,we'll get this straighend out yet. lol
 
Would the material DELRIN be suitable to make sump plug gaskets and be soft enough to absorb any irregularity in the surface it seals.
 
Ian,
It will work quite well for a sump plug gasket but its a one shot deal if
the surfaces being sealed are off square with the threads. Delrin is fuel and oil
safe material.
Charlie ny
 
G.M. said:
I have a whole assortment of punches I made for speciic jobs. I use steel conduit, pipe or tubeing and grind a long taper on the end for the cutting edge. Some I make the taper inside for a clean closer fit. I have used them on leather, rubber, plastic, gasket material and lead sheet that was used for roof flashing. Use a medium hard wood for the cutting block. G.M.
Click to expand...

BINGO! I've also been doing this for years, mainly for copper shim and also lead, sometimes the lead was 3/16 thick. We did a lot of stange jobs no one else wanted, or knew how to do.

We put the nearest size CDS pipe in a lathe and either tapered the inside or outside, then started punching by hand cookie cutter style.

If you decide to use this method please don't do the standard first year Apprentice Blacksmith trick. Which is; once you have been shown how to do the job, you must knock each dump out as you go. So, the minute his Tradesman leaves him to it, he gets the bright idea he'll fill the tube then knock them out. Yeah right! At least their time is cheap...:rolleyes:
 
Ken, search "crush washers" on Google or in a place like Speedway. The fancy Aircraft hose places sell aluminum and copper versions in sizes meant to work with various fittings like brake banjos.
Good hole punces are cheap and it should be fairly easy to taper back an undersize one to reach correct hols size.
The ideal find here would be a good deformable washer that would reliably seal the tapered body of a 4160 PV to the body of a 94 without alterations...dunno if that's going to happen, but it is something to think about.
 
Why go to all the trouble of screwing around with lead, copper, etc. Buy the Power Valves from Daytona Parts and use them they work!
 
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