KBS vs POR

I have no experience with KBS but have had nothing but outstanding results with POR. It sets up like powder coating.

The KBS description sounds similar to POR and they offer more colors the POR.

You're likely okay with either product.
 
I used KBS in Galvanize on new and old metal on an Aermotor windmill. At first It was too new looking, but instead of aging well it has started to rust and needs refinished after only five years. I followed the prep instructions as listed by KBS.
 
I have used both the POR15 and KBS Rustseal. They are both very similar. Admittedly I only applied them two years ago, but seem to have held up the same. I would recommend both.

Based on my experience, I would go with whichever is cheaper, easier to get, has the colour you are after etc.
 
If you use POR 15 it must be applied to a rusty surface. If you apply it to clean metal it will peel off like a sunburn - ask me how I know that
 
In my opinion these products in addition to supposidly treating rust also encapsulate rust that is not completly treated. I am an old believer that rust can not be treated - only completly removed with media blasting or possible acid treatment.
 
Tom Bellfoy said:
If you use POR 15 it must be applied to a rusty surface. If you apply it to clean metal it will peel off like a sunburn - ask me how I know that
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I agree. I had exactly the same results with POR 15 . I was not impressed but many of my friends love the product !
Wayne
 
MAGNET PAINT Makes a product called "Chassis Saver" which is very close to POR. Magnet paints are made in the USA (Long Island, NY) They send a "kit"that includes a piece of steel that is thin enough to bend. This steel has been painted with Chassis saver and you can flex it to see the paint bend with the steel. Google Magnet Paint
Terry
 
I used to use POR-15 but switched to the KBS system several years ago. I Love it. It is not only similar to the POR paint, It's less expensive and works very well. They also have a flat rate shipping. I use a lot of it and swear by it. If whatever I coat is going to be outdoors, I coat it with Top Coat, a clear coat for black.

I also usually use "A Must for Rust" etching spray if there's a lot of rust. Removes rust in a few minutes and seems to etch the metal. I use a power washer to remove the Must for Rust.
 
aermotor said:
In my opinion these products in addition to supposidly treating rust also encapsulate rust that is not completly treated. I am an old believer that rust can not be treated - only completly removed with media blasting or possible acid treatment.
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I agree and wouldn't want any painted over rust on my projects.
 
http://www.lloydslaboratories.com/K...igh-Temp-Satin-Black-350-g-14-oz-aerosol.html

Not cheap, but a call to them can net a better than advertised price. The only OEM approved coating for surface rust on frames after rigorous and expensive testing. The best part? It dries in 15 minutes, and their metal prep is the balls. Wipe it on, wipe it off, paint. And not just for their stuff, nearly anything. I'm a very stubborn set in my ways kind of finisher and spent years using POR, but this system was given to me to coat the underside of an Impala roof that was total surface rust. The cleaner took a lot of it away and with the coating applied we're all confident it'll never "leak rust" on the new headliner.
 
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